tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37504382066378089732024-03-06T12:34:01.939+09:00COUCH ON WHEELSMostly cycling in South Korea. Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.comBlogger104125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-13802390683150063492016-05-15T22:33:00.001+09:002016-05-16T01:45:30.857+09:00KNEE RECONSTRUCTION (part 1) two weeks post surgeryI haven't done any cycling in four months. Now before you start calling me a lazy sod, let me explain...<br />
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Last summer I made the decision to go back to university in my hometown, Nottingham, to take a masters degree in Applied Linguistics. It's also the city where I grew up skateboarding and the majority of my friends are still rolling. The skate scene here is pretty amazing. There are some great spots now that didn't exist when I used to live here and the new generation of skateboarders are killing it. I haven't skated regularly for several years now. When living in Korea I lost the desire to skate because it has always been a social activity for me and none of my friends out there were skateboarders, so whenever I come back to the UK I dust my board off and catch up with my friends. Usually all the old tricks come back quite quickly and last summer was proving to be a lot of fun. Then one day at the local DIY concrete skatepark, built on a wasteland at never you mind, it all went tits up. When trying to do a frontside bluntside on a teeny tiny rail on the flat, I kicked my board away and tried to bail. My right leg stepped on to the top of the rail, hyperextended, and my knee bent out to the side. felt the joint pop and fell down in the least dramatic way. It really looked laughably pathetic! Obviously I started swearing like crazy!<br />
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This was the first incident with my knee; let's call it the September incident. I thought I had just sprained my knee. I managed to hobble around a bit. I didn't do any exercise for a month, before I started cycling again. I went to see a doctor and a physio who both seemed to think I hadn't done any serious damage. I wasn't in too much pain, so I thought nothing more of it. There were occasions where I felt like my knee was going to give way, but by Christmas time it seemed to be fine.<br />
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Then in mid January, shortly after having handed in all of my assignments for the autumn semester, I decided to get back on my board. I really felt like skating a bowl, so I cycled down to "Flo", my local indoor skatepark, with my skateboard strapped to my bicycle. The session started slowly but I managed to get a few nice lines in, landing a couple of backside smith grinds and 5-0s. I then had a shot at a combo trick, a backside smith to 50-50, not the prettiest of tricks, but a fun one to do. That was the last trick I ever attempted to do on a skateboard. Needless to say, I didn't land it! Haha. As I stepped down the transition of the ramp my knee just gave way and once again I felt that dreaded pop. Fuck! Fuck! Fuck! I picked myself up off the floor, hobbled around a bit and somehow managed to get out of the bowl. We'll call this the January incident. It felt more or less like the previous injury I had. After about 20 mins of sitting around rubbing my knee I figured the session was over, so I made my way home. Somehow I managed to cycle back to my house. Little did I know how completely fucked my knee was.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26421257914/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="Weapon of mass destruction"><img alt="Weapon of mass destruction" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7756/26421257914_72cba8a0ae.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
(Death trap for sale! 4 months on and my skateboard is still strapped to my bicycle)<br />
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The next morning I couldn't walk. My leg just simply could bear any weight. To cut a long story short, I had royally fucked my knee up. I wouldn't realise the full extent of the injury for another four months, shortly before I underwent surgery on my knee. Here's a breakdown of what happened:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>The cartilage (meniscus) in my knee had torn on both the left and right hand side of the knee. </li>
<li>I fractured my tibia.</li>
<li>My anterior cruciate ligament had completely ruptured - snapped in two.</li>
<li>I ruptured my posterolateral corner (PLC) </li>
</ol>
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Four injuries at once, although I didn't realise it at the time.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26421258174/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="Fooked knee. Totally busted"><img alt="Fooked knee. Totally busted" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7505/26421258174_d55fcc8d92.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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(my totally swollen knee the day after the January incident)<br />
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<div>
The day after the injury I headed to the walk-in health centre as I didn't think the injury was too serious. An x-ray revealed that I had a fracture at the rear side of my tibial plateau. They sent me to accident and emergency where they put my leg into a "Richard brace" (see photo below), a fixed brace that doesn't allow your knee to bend. Somehow I managed to get an MRI scan within a week, which is pretty miraculous! The scan revealed that I had completely severed my ACL. I didn't find out that I had damaged my PLC until the day of the surgery.</div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26932626102/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="Richard brace"><img alt="Richard brace" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/26932626102_88869b4711.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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(This is a Richard brace)<br />
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<div>
I spent about 10 days on crutches in the Richard brace, non-weight bearing of course. Wearing it for so long gave me really bad lower back pain. The muscles in my right leg atrophied. My <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vastus_medialis" target="_blank">VMO</a> (the tear drop shaped muscle above your knee on the inside of your leg) completely disappeared. Subsequently I was given a hinged brace and started a course of physio. My memory is not so good, the first two weeks in the brace was at 45º, then the next four weeks was at 90º.</div>
<div>
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<div>
After about 6 weeks I went to see the knee specialist for a consultation. He gave me the option of having reconstructive surgery or opting for non-operative rehab. Because I'm an active fellow, he advised that having surgery would give me the best chance of a full recovery. The thought of my knee giving way underneath me while hiking somewhere remote, or having fallen off my bike in the middle of nowhere did not sound appealing. "Yes sir, please I'd love some surgery".</div>
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Even prior to my surgery, my knee made a pretty amazing recovery in a short period of time through physio alone. I was able to do some light hiking in the Peak District, and was even even capable of making a careful dash for the bus! It was starting to to feel quite strong already.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26423123393/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="Mam Tor"><img alt="Mam Tor" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/26423123393_fb9af6b351.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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(Taking a stroll on Mam Tor in the Peak District a couple of weeks before the surgery. My recovery from the January incident was fast. Stick to your physio and you'll make good progress)<br />
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On the afternoon of Thursday 28th April I went under the knife. That morning they informed me that they would be performing three procedures, rather than two. Up until then I was unaware that I had damaged my PLC, but nonetheless that wouldn't affect my decision about the surgery. Get it done, boss! I was under anaesthetic for about two hours before I woke up post surgery.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26932471742/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 1"><img alt="knee - 1" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7741/26932471742_ee1e4a8fc1.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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(Instructions)<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The ACL and PLC procedures involved taking a graft from my my hamstring tendons, one from either leg, which were then used to create new ligaments. I stayed in the hospital overnight and was discharged the following afternoon. Physio began immediately. My knee was kept in a fixed Richard brace for 5 days.<br />
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If it had just been the ACL, my recovery time would have been about 9 months to get back to full sporting function. However, because I have multi-ligament damage, the recovery will take about a year, the first two months being particularly slow. My first 6 weeks on crutches are non-weight bearing. The PLC is the real bastard here. It's a complex series of soft tissues which I couldn't possibly being to explain. Here are a few articles for you to read about the PLC:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://thesportsphysio.wordpress.com/2013/07/19/the-postero-lateral-corner-the-dark-side-of-the-knee-a-guest-article-by-richard-norris/" target="_blank">"The dark side of the knee" </a><br />
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<a href="http://radiopaedia.org/articles/posterior-corner-injury-of-the-knee" target="_blank">"Posterior corner injury of the knee"</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/sport-injuries/knee-pain/posterolateral-corner-injury" target="_blank">Posterolateral Corner Injury</a><br />
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Unfortunately due to the PLC injury it's unlikely that I'll reach high level function again. I should be able to do all the things I enjoy, such as cycling, swimming, hiking and running, although I have been told that contact sports will not be a possibility. I couldn't care less about contact sports, so I'm not too worried about that. I have been advised that I shouldn't skateboard again. I will almost certainly follow this advice!<br />
<br />
The irony of this injury is that although it occurred during skateboarding, the real cause of it is cycling. Over twenty years of skateboarding I never injured my knee. Cycling is considered good for the knee because it is low impact and it is a recommended exercise for knee rehab. However, when cycling is your main exercise and you do it as much as I do, you neglect lots of stabilising muscles that support your knee because it involves no lateral movement. In short, this injury could have been avoided had I been doing exercises that strengthen these supporting muscles. I will post more about this in the future.<br />
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The other irony is that everybody keeps telling me that it's no surprise I injured myself skateboarding because it's so dangerous and involves a lot of high impact. This is a misconception. Both of the incidents that led to my knee surgery were low impact. In fact most of the skateboarders I know who have suffered serious leg injuries did them doing virtually nothing. Arthur Tubb shattered his leg doing a kickturn on a quarter pipe. Ian Rees also buggered his knee doing a kickturn down at the Nottingham DIY spot.<br />
<br /></div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26993168826/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 2"><img alt="knee - 2" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7727/26993168826_94d888c9c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
(Morphine and tea up to the eyeballs!)<br />
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26993168736/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 4"><img alt="knee - 4" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/26993168736_b84ef50cd7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
(When I need motivation, I just pretend to be Freddie Mercury)<br />
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After 5 days I went to the occupational therapist to get my my dressings changed and a "genurange" brace fitted with a range of 90º.<br />
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26932470252/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 5"><img alt="knee - 5" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7679/26932470252_23a980e16d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26752870240/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 8"><img alt="knee - 8" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7239/26752870240_37d47ba104.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26932469642/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 7"><img alt="knee - 7" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7240/26932469642_429d924faf.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26932469082/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 9"><img alt="knee - 9" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7736/26932469082_d64896f9fc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My lovely new brace<br />
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26932468712/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 11"><img alt="knee - 11" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/26932468712_03cc0a5a38.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The first exercises I was given weren't too taxing. They were mostly static exercises for my quads, glutes, etc and stretches for my calves and hamstrings.<br />
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26421149474/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 13"><img alt="knee - 13" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7570/26421149474_d29bab0142.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After two weeks they gave me some more advanced exercises. Initially I couldn't do this leg raise as it was painful and my knee felt too weak. Within three days these were easy to do. It's amazing how quickly your body strengthens and regenerates.<br />
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/26752869800/in/album-72157665971661073/" title="knee - 14"><img alt="knee - 14" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7408/26752869800_9a019a2a5f.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Two weeks post surgery and I know have a range of about 85º. Pretty good progress.<br />
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Anyway, that's enough about my knee for now. I'm pretty optimistic and looking forward to the rehab process. There's something strangely enjoyable about it. I should have this brace on for about 9 weeks in total. I'll post some more once I get this brace taken off.<br />
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-12819689229251902552015-11-23T01:50:00.001+09:002015-11-23T01:51:34.960+09:00Picos de EuropaThis trip was a LONG time ago. It must have been May 2015. I was spending some time in the North of Spain pretty much pretending to look for work, when really I just wanted to get out of England. I'd had some trouble adjusting after my trip around South America.<br />
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After a few weeks I decided to embark on a 3 day trip across Picos de Europa, a stunning national park. The mountains were huge and the roads very steep in parts. I won't say much, you can just look at the views...<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Leaving Cangas de Onis</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Posada dé Valdeon</span></b><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/22916639100/in/album-72157659183372943/" title="picosB - 16 (1)"><img alt="picosB - 16 (1)" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5679/22916639100_4949d20845.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/23212440575/in/album-72157659183372943/" title="picosB - 17 (1)"><img alt="picosB - 17 (1)" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5793/23212440575_370d4c9f6f.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/23212440435/in/album-72157659183372943/" title="picosB - 18 (1)"><img alt="picosB - 18 (1)" height="640" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5811/23212440435_af11cd176a_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Potes</span></b><br />
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Lovely decor.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Desfiladero de La Hermida</span></b><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/23212437135/in/album-72157659183372943/" title="picosB - 32 (1)"><img alt="picosB - 32 (1)" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5784/23212437135_d402c2c32f.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/22916635890/in/album-72157659183372943/" title="picosB - 33 (1)"><img alt="picosB - 33 (1)" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/676/22916635890_6503402258.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Fixing my rear spoke which snapped.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">San Vicente de La Barquera</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">SIDRA!!!</span></b><br />
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Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-78027253535323668382015-10-01T19:21:00.000+09:002015-10-01T19:40:48.057+09:00Bolivian Altiplano and La Paz<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/san-pedro-to-uyuni.html" target="_blank">(Previous post: San Pedro to Uyuni)</a><br />
<br />
This post is long overdue - over six months. I just simply couldn't be bothered to write it at the time. However it is interesting to reflect on events after so much time has passed. So I'll start up where I finished off.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Uyuni - Bolivian Altiplano</span></b><br />
After a near disaster getting lost in a high altitude desert (<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/san-pedro-to-uyuni.html" target="_blank">see previous post</a>) I hitched a lift to the nearest town, then paid a jeep to take me the rest of the way to Uyuni.<br />
<br />
I was both physically and mentally spent by the time I arrived in Uyuni. I was also starting to develop stomach problems. That probably comes as no surprise to some of those who know me. I was pretty excited to see the Bolivian salt plains. It is one of the places that anybody who goes to South America would like to see. A magnificent and awe-inspiring landscape. Well, that's what they tell you.<br />
<br />
Truth be told, it is an incredibly beautiful place, but my mind was not in the right place to appreciate it. I chose not to cycle on the salt plains as it was still flooded. During the summer months it essentially turns into the world's largest puddle. I have read accounts of people cycling across it in these conditions, but I decided against it. I wasn't really that confident enough to do it and after taking a wrong turn in the desert on the previous leg of my trip I really couldn't be dealing with any more hiccups.<br />
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Uyuni itself is not a particularly interesting place. It is very tourist-centric. It is very expensive by Bolivian standards and all of the restaurants are geared towards selling western food. After spending carnaval partying with a Bolivian family I found my new location very underwhelming. My guts were really not in a good way, so I spent a day moping around, mostly in bed, feeling knackered and decided to sign on to a tour of the salt plains on day two.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
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I should have been blown away by the landscape, but it was quite the opposite. The ride to the plain was a boneshaker. I was struggling to contain the contents of my stomach and guts. With each bump I really worried that I might vomit or shit my pants. Miraculously my body didn't fail me! I was incredibly relieved to get the hell out of that jeep. It didn't help that I had the most sickening Argentine/Bolivian couple eating each others faces off next to me and a bunch of 17 year old Chilean girls who happened to be selfie addicts sat in the front.<br />
<br />
When I finally got over the jeep I ride I got to soak up the views. I just couldn't muster up any enthusiasm. I felt like I was staring out across an infinite white car park that stretched for as far as the eye could see. Clearly I had become jaded by my travels.<br />
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Uyuni was chock full of an unbelievable amount of Korean tourists. I had some fun conversations with these girls from Seoul. The Chileans and Bolivians in my jeep were not big fans of the Asians.<br />
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I only took a few photos on the Salar de Uyuni. Mostly because in every direction all I could see were people taking selfies and doing poses that make things look out of perspective. We were parked on the salt plains for hours under the most intense sunlight.<br />
<br />
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It was at Uyuni that I started to feel like I was finished with this trip and it was time to make decisions about when I would return to the UK. What suddenly triggered this? Well first I must must tell you about an encounter I had made a few days before...<br />
<br />
When I was cycling out of San Pedro de Atacama up towards the Lagunas I took a break by the side of the road for some snacks and some water. A woman in a giant camper van pulled up a few hundred metres down the road. She emerged from the vehicle followed by her pet dog whom she proceeded to walk in my direction.<br />
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I got chatting to the lady who originated from France. Initially I was quite captivated about her story and her life. She had been travelling a long time and explained how San Pedro had changed over the past thirty years. The conversation quickly took a sour turn and she leaped into a diatribe against tourists and tourism in general. While I had a certain understanding of where she was coming from and I was quite sympathetic with what she was saying, I didn't like the overall negative tone of the conversation. This woman clearly thought that she was better than other 'travellers' and because I was on a bicycle she clearly viewed me as being better than other tourists. I was very uncomfortable with this. I am quite happy to label myself as a tourist and despite the fact that tourist hotspots can be dreadful places I hold nothing against other tourists. Ultimately no matter how hard one might think they are different from the crowd, you are a tourist as well.<br />
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Yes, she may have got there years before all these tourists around her, but it's quite clear why. She's decades older than them! It is frustrating to see how tourism can potentially contaminate a place, but for westerner to rock up in a country and be frustrated by the tourism which they have created reeks of hypocrisy...<br />
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...and that's why I started to question my journey. I had started to see elements of that woman in myself. Here I was at the Salar de Uyuni, a truly magnificent landscape incomparable to anything I have ever had the good grace of seeing and I'm comparing it to a car park. Something had clearly gone wrong. I put it down to a combination of things. It could have been from being so exhausted having cycled at such high altitude on such unforgiving terrain. It could have been that I had seen so many amazing things that I had simply raised the bar too high. Or it could have be the fact that I was so used to my own company and interaction with local people that tourists were simply getting on my nerves. Either way, I didn't like what I saw in myself. I decided that I would cycle to La Paz and make a decision from there.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Uyuni to Rio Mulato (approx 100 km)</b></span><br />
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I can't remember the exact distance I covered that day, but it was slightly over 100km. After the incredibly tough ride up from San Pedro, I thought that this ride would be much easier as it was alongside the altiplano. It was actually way tougher than I could have imagined. Uyuni is about 3,700 metres in altitude. The road was initially a horrendous washboard texture. I spent my time either juddering up and down, or my wheels would be swimming around in the sand. The effort was knackering.<br />
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After a few kilometres I spotted that the were building a new highway. Cars weren't allowed on it as it was not finished. Eventually it will be a seal road all the way to Oruro. It goes with out saying that I was straight up there the moment that I saw it. In the photo above you can see the crappy old road to the right. It was a massive relief to be riding on a smooth surface again.<br />
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My guts were feeling a lot better but I still had to stop for an explosive dump on the side of the road. Fortunately I was able to get out of sight unlike my experiences in the Atacama. Maybe my bowels are allergic to the desert?<br />
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Somehow I had managed to avoid any real problems with dogs on this trip. I had heard nothing but bad things about dogs in South America. Well that was about to change. I saw a handful of people working out here in this desert landscape, and this one woman's dog was not all that keen on my bicycle. At first it seemed quite playful, despite its bark. I came up with the idea of using my water to spray the dog. Initially it seemed to work, but he continued to chase after me when he realised that the water was harmless. I pedalled faster, but the faster I seemed to move the more agitated and aggressive the dog became. I squirted more of my water at the dog, but this had little effect (it was also a terrible idea to waste any water in this environment - but my immediate concern was to not get mauled by a fierce canine). I had only one option left. Pedal like a crazy man.<br />
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I spent every last bit of energy trying to out-cycle the dog and eventually got away from it. It seemed that there was a correlation between the speed of my bike and the ferocity of the dogs snarl. He was gnashing away, getting ever so close to my ankles. Once I was far away and in complete safety I stopped to gather my breath. I was crippled with exhaustion - my tank completely empty.<br />
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Later on I came across another angry dog. This time I changed tactics. I stopped cycling and got off the bike. The dog quickly lost interest and I walked my bike until I was well out of its range of curiosity. So that's my top tip. Don't try to out-cycle a crazy dog. Worst case scenario, it's time to throw stones.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16565993393/in/album-72157652024600321/" title="Bolivia13"><img alt="Bolivia13" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7630/16565993393_a202cd4d03.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Shortly before sunset I rolled up into Rio Mulato. I couldn't be bothered to cycle any further beyond here, so I headed to the station to find out about trains to Oruro. As I approached there was a full band playing. Carnaval celebrations were still in full swing! I got forced to pose in photos with a host of locals.<br />
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It turned out that there were no trains for a few days - shit - but there were buses to Oruro around midnight. I had a lot of time to kill until then. I got chatting to an engineer who was working on the new highway and his wife. Somehow we managed to have a relatively coherent conversation in spite of my broken Spanish. They offered to buy me dinner and I gratefully accepted the offer. My belly welcomed the fried chicken feast.<br />
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The bus to Oruro was three hours of total hell. When it arrived there was a huge frenzy as dozen as people battled to get on the bus. I was panicking trying to get my kit loaded under the bus. In the end I settled for a seat on the back of the bus. This turned out to be a serious error. I experienced what was easily the most reckless driving in existence. I think the driver thought he was in the Dakar rally. The roads were seriously bumpy and I frequently found myself thrown about a foot out of my seat. I had to endure an entire hour of that bullshit before we got onto sealed roads, then I managed to get some sleep.<br />
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I spent the night in Oruro in a stinky hotel by the bus station. The sheets smelled unwashed like old saliva. Have you ever smelled the end of a pen that someone has chewed on? Yeah, that was the smell. In the morning I decided that I couldn't be bothered to cycle to La Paz, so I took the bus... and guess what?<br />
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I left my passport at the hotel in Oruro. Bollocks.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">La Paz</span></b><br />
I spent the next day on the bus because I had to go and fetch my passport. After that false start I booked my flights back to London which left me with a week to kill in La Paz. I had heard bad things about La Paz, but I thought that it was in fact a really fun city with the most incredibly cityscape you could possibly see.<br />
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The house of democracy is in a state of disrepair.<br />
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This is Kurt. He was touring as well. He spotted me in the street, so we arranged to cycle out of town for the day.<br />
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It was a long uphill cycle (about 500 metres elevation) on the autopista before we got up El Alto.<br />
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Epically contrasting clouds. Somehow we avoided a soaking.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/17184523092/in/album-72157652024600321/" title="Bolivia19"><img alt="Bolivia19" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5454/17184523092_51231ee50b.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I had the theme tune to Airwolf stuck in my head after seeing this bus. It was the perfect tune to have in my head on the descent back down into La Paz.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/17185574751/in/album-72157652024600321/" title="Bolivia22"><img alt="Bolivia22" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7683/17185574751_5401f18e73.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16999997749/in/album-72157652024600321/" title="Bolivia23"><img alt="Bolivia23" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5466/16999997749_fa42ea71d7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This ride was possibly my favourite descent ever, despite the traffic and the near misses.<br />
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I may have ended my trip much earlier than anticipated, but I genuinely didn't see the point in continuing for the sake of it. Enjoyment was my primary motive, so once that had disappeared there was no reason to go further. I don't really understand the point of pushing yourself through misery if it is going to have such a negative impact on the way you view things. It effectively taints your interaction with the culture and your surroundings. Travelling is supposed to be an uplifting thing. I do enjoy pushing myself with cycling. I love challenges, especially cycling in the mountains. I quite enjoy suffering on the bike, but after three months, it was time for a break.<br />
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I hope to return to Bolivia. I would even like to have another go at riding across the altiplano and through the Lagunas again, but not at the end of a three month trip and I would certainly prefer to do that with another cyclist for motivation. Sometimes it's good to ride solo. Other times it's the worst!<br />
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<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/san-pedro-to-uyuni.html" target="_blank">(Previous post: San Pedro to Uyuni)</a><br />
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-74330375437537087422015-02-20T04:27:00.001+09:002015-10-01T19:22:30.454+09:00San Pedro to Uyuni<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/10/bolivian-altiplano-and-la-paz.html" target="_blank">(next page: Uyuni to La Paz)</a><br />
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I had a choice of two routes to head into Bolivia. The easier option would involve backtracking to Calama then heading into Bolivia via Ollague. The more difficult option would be to head straight into Bolivia from San Pedro via Las Lagunas (Laguna Blanca, Verde and Colorada). Neither option would be easy.<br />
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In the end I chose to try and go via Las Lagunas. I say "try" because I knew that it would be bloody difficult and I was never certain that I would complete the route, which is mostly dirt, sand, rocks and gravel, with passes of up to around 4,900 metres above sea level. I had read a lot about people having to push their bicycles for hours on end. Despite sounding like a bloody nightmare from start to finish, I thought I would give it a shot. I do like a challenge and I love cycling over mountain passes.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16581433762" title="LasLagunas01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas01" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/16581433762_b4e39825b7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The day before leaving San Pedro I hiked up to this Mirador and caught a glimpse of the pass that I had to cross on day one. The pass is 4,600 metres above sea level and involved an ascent of around 2,200 metres or so. It doesn´t look so intimidating from here. Think again.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day One - San Pedro to Laguna Blanca (55km)</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16581433612" title="LasLagunas02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas02" height="384" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8577/16581433612_1f5ca5fc5d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I set off very early. I was at Chilean immigration at 8am to get my departure stamp in my passport. Foolishly I stayed out late the night before as good things were going on in San Pedro. It was a fun night but a major schoolboy error. It was pretty much flat for about 13km heading towards the pass.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16394902158" title="LasLagunas03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas03" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/16394902158_2f31baa7ea.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
On this route you pass some minefields - remants of conflicts past between Chile and Bolivia.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16396268869" title="LasLagunas04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas04" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/16396268869_24e41bc98b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The beginning of the climb really was not that bad. It really started to get tough about half way up. That is when the altitude really started to affect me.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16581433172" title="LasLagunas05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas05" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/16581433172_b295ed6239.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
All through the climb you get amazing views of Volcan Licancabur.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395102510" title="LasLagunas06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas06" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8573/16395102510_8b7541c547.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15962352223" title="LasLagunas07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas07" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7437/15962352223_42cb5ef2e1_z.jpg" width="384" /></a><br />
I took a nap about halfway up after having some lunch and awoke to a bunch of wild donkeys behind me.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15962352023" title="LasLagunas08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas08" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8642/15962352023_61feb721ec.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Somebody had written the altitude on some of the barriers en route. This is the first time that I had ever cycled above 4,000 metres. A few days before I took a tour up to The Tatio Geysers, which were about 4,200 metres, but hitting these heights on a bicycle is a serious punisher. I hadn´t really suffered from any altitude sickness, but at this point I felt immense fatigue. I don´t think the night out before helped in anyway shape or form. Usually I love to finght a hangover with a tough ride. It would work wonders. This does not apply at high altitude. Even mellow ascent take your breath and leave you completely shattered.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16580908901" title="LasLagunas09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas09" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8561/16580908901_1dd1e23b32.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I ended up pushing for quite a few hours up this road. Despite being paved and not all that steep by low altitude standards, it completely dominated me. A few people stopped to see if I was okay during my regular roadside breaks. I was fine, just completely knackered and was wondering when the hell the top of the pass would come. Most people´s estimates were large, so I was really surprised and ecstatic to see this sign for the turn off into Bolivia. The pain was almost over!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16580908801" title="LasLagunas10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas10" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/16580908801_65b6ce7183.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Turning off towards Bolivia the dirt roads started. Suddenly I had to be so much more aware of my steering so I didnçt wipe out.<br />
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I eventually got into Bolivia and arrived at a refugio by Laguna Blanca around 7pm. I had only travelled around 55km, but it took all day and a whole lot of pushing. I hate pushing bicycles. If I enjoyed that I would get a job at a supermarket pushing trollies. The winds got stronger and the temperature dropped rapidly.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Day Two - Rest day</b></span><br />
I was so exhausted after day one that I took a rest day and spent two nights at the refugio by Laguna Blanca. I thought it would also be a good idea for acclimatisation to the altitude. There were a couple of older German men that were on vacation climbing some mountains. They were going to climb Licancabur the next day.<br />
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I spent most of the day resting up and eating. Nobody was around. The winds started howling around midday. I started to suffer from a crisis of confidence. I had no belief that I could get through the whole way to Uyuni on bicycle. I kept staring at my map, a pdf that had been compiled by many cyclist that had done the route. In the end I decided to stop thinking about the long term goal. The next day I would just focus on getting to Salar de Chalviri.<br />
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Later on that day four young Austrian lads turned up in a tourist jeep and spent the night at the refugio. It was nice to have some company. Regretfully I kept referring to Germany, to which they constantly reminded me that they were Austrian. Whoops! Way to go Alasdair! They fed me some of their left over spaghetti bolognese. Their cook made way too much for the four of them.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day Three - Laguna Blanca to Salar de Chalviri (44km)</span></b><br />
I awoke at around 6am as the sun rose. I was dying to get going. All of my negative thoughts from the day before had evaporated. I packed up all of my stuff and got ready to set off. I was really excited. But, alas, I had somehow suffered a puncture. So I fixed it, pumped it up only for it to deflate immediately. I checked it for a second time. The inner tube had got pinched, so I had a snakebite puncture to deal with. Eventually I set off at around 8 am.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15962351413" title="LasLagunas11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas11" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8568/15962351413_58e370dc5d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395101340" title="LasLagunas12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas12" height="350" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/16395101340_a2481e8920.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16580908211" title="LasLagunas13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas13" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8585/16580908211_20d1014e72.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16394900448" title="LasLagunas14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas14" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/16394900448_3aebbb85a9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Flamingos at Laguna Blanca. It was amazing to be all alone in this magnificent landscape watching these birds. Nobody else was around. They were quite skittish. As I walked closer to take these snaps they took flight. It made for some nice photos though!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16582135365" title="LasLagunas15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas15" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/16582135365_1189b38877.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Laguna Verde. Yes, it is supposed to be bright green, but arrived very early, so it didn´t look so spectacular. If only I had shown up an hour later! I was trying to make early progress to avoid the winds.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395100900" title="LasLagunas16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas16" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/16395100900_4f5f7dc921.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The roads were really shitty, but not as bad as I had imagined. On day two I managed to cycle almost the entire way with the exception of about 200 metres or so at the steepest part of that day´s pass. I must admit though, I did wipe out on the gravel in the first twenty minutes of cycling.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16396266879" title="LasLagunas17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas17" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/16396266879_5df2699bfa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Utter joy! Not so far from the top! Despite being completely out of breath almost the entire ride, it felt unbelievable to be in this place. It did not feel like being on earth at all. Once over the pass and I had caught my breath back I was able to relax and really soak everything in. This sky high desert is so beautiful, if not stark and bleak. It was definitely one of my happiest moments and I was sad not to be able to share it with a friend. I know so many people that would have loved to have come on this trip with me, but timing dictates everything.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16582135075" title="LasLagunas18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas18" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8585/16582135075_53384674da.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15962350253" title="LasLagunas19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas19" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8587/15962350253_cbe04eefab.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The joy riding downhill. I quickly forgot about all the suffering and my attention focussed on trying to keep the bicycle upright on this mixture of washboard and gravel.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16556138266" title="LasLagunas20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas20" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8563/16556138266_050d17bd3b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Looking back at the "Desierto del Dali" as I headed towards Salar de Chalviri.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16580907111" title="LasLagunas21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas21" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/16580907111_2e33ddb578_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15962349853" title="LasLagunas22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas22" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/15962349853_0b83d442bb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There was a restaurant, hostel and hot springs at Salar de Chalviri. Despite being only 1pm when I arrived I decided to spend the night. I didn´t feel like tackling another pass that day. None of the refugios have showers so it was nice to soak in the hot springs after three days without washing. I managed to get sunburned shoulder while bathing.<br />
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The hostel had no room so I camped outside in my tent. It got pretty cold that night, but it didn´t feel too bad.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16394899148" title="LasLagunas23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas23" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/16394899148_cfab46ba54.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Llamas grazing by the hot springs.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16581430332" title="LasLagunas24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas24" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/16581430332_67e3632d70.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395099550" title="LasLagunas25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas25" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7451/16395099550_0801b4265e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It was carnival, so the locals covered me and my bike in streamers. See how my bike is placed beneath the window? A chinese man got really sick during the night and vomited all over my bicycle. He was so apologetic the next morning, but I found it hilarious. He washed the bike of course. That was probably the cleanest my bike has been on this entire trip!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15959985284" title="LasLagunas26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas26" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7321/15959985284_7deddf3fcf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After the tourist jeeps disappeared I was invited to join the party with a local family. I got thoroughly fed and filled to the brim with beer. I spent the whole afternoon and evening partying with them. It was a lot of fun and really boosted my spirits!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16394898428" title="LasLagunas27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas27" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/16394898428_c8b4d4c698.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Getting wild!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16396264989" title="LasLagunas28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas28" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/16396264989_e33661665e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Sunset over Salar de Chalviri.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395098700" title="LasLagunas29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas29" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/16395098700_3433bf3483.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Llamas by the hot springs at sunrise over Salar de Chalviri.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day Four - Salar de Chalviri to Sol de Manana.</span></b><br />
I rose early again and got on the road my about 7am. I was aiming to cycle about 50km to Laguna Colorada. I was feeling pretty good, but decided that I should take it day by day, so I would make a decision as to what to do next when I got to Laguna Colorada.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16556136556" title="LasLagunas30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas30" height="369" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7440/16556136556_9e94380b2f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Flamingos in Salar de Chalviri.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16582132895" title="LasLagunas31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas31" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/16582132895_f330e0d90a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
More Vicuna.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16556136306" title="LasLagunas32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas32" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8599/16556136306_90cf7ac9c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The day started off nicely for about 7km, but as soon as the climb got started it wasn´t long before I was pushing again. I pushed my bicycles for hours. The landscape didn´t change at all. I had to stop so frequently to catch my breath. I was quite a sight, stood up, slumped over my handle bars. After several hours I reached a junction. Foolishly, I turned right, because that was where all the vehicles were going. Little did I know that they were heading directly back to Uyuni, not to Laguna Colorada.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16580905391" title="LasLagunas33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas33" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/16580905391_e684e1d4e3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Looking back towards Salar de Chalviri. This hill looks like nothing, but it defeated me.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16581428732" title="LasLagunas34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas34" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8570/16581428732_8b395cc084.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It was moments after taking this photo that Bolivian men in a pick up truck stopped to ask me where I was going. They informed me about my wrong turn. I began to panic. I had just ridden several kilometres downhill and had no desire to go back up. I consulted my map to see if there was any information on this route. There wasn´t. Did I want to carry on down this route, or go back? Was I having any fun cycling the Lagunas route? Despite the amazing surroundings, the answer was "no". I decided that I really couldn´t be bother to ride this route any further. I wanted to ride my bike, not push it. I asked the two Bolivian men if they could give me a lift. They obliged and drove me to Villa Mar. It was a long drive and their was nothing inbetween there and where they had picked me up.<br />
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I was so relieved to be off my bicyle and sat in the pick up truck as we drove at break neck speed down a nasty road. Bolivian tunes blasting out of the stereo, I was having so much more fun that being sat on my saddle listening to the sound of the wind and my heart pounding in my throat.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395097850" title="LasLagunas35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas35" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8674/16395097850_241622be56.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395097720" title="LasLagunas36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas36" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7425/16395097720_6f3089e7de.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I got dropped off in Villa Mar, a pretty little village with some amazing rock cliffs with a desert back drop. A river runs through it, so it is incredibly lush. You can see llamas grazing everywhere.<br />
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From Villa Mar I managed to negotiate a lift to Uyuni in a tourist jeep. They strapped my bicycle and kit to the roof and I sat in the back next to two young Koreans. There were also two Ecuadorians and Germans in the vehicle.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16395097460" title="LasLagunas37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas37" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/16395097460_4609ec22a5_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16396263549" title="LasLagunas38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="LasLagunas38" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/16396263549_779342d64d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
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Valle de Rocas. I love this moss like plants. I have no idea what their name is. Answers on a postcard please!<br />
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So I´m sat here in an internet cafe in Uyuni. Bolivia is a world apart from Chile. There is such a huge difference. This town is much more raw that San Pedro, but it is completely geared towards tourism. I have also never seen so many Korean and Japanese tourists in my life! They are everywhere! I am going to do a full day and sunset tour of the Salar de Uyuni tomorrow. I think all of the other passengers are Korean.<br />
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I would have loved to have cycled across the Salar, but it is flooded. I think it would be really difficult to navigate in these conditions, although it definitely has been done before. Personally, I like my bicycle too much to ride it through a gigantic salt lake. The salt would totally screw the bike up. It is steel as well.<br />
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So my next step is to head north on dirt roads up towards Oruro and then La Paz. Paved roads should start again in about 180km. The altitude on the altiplano is around 3,750 meters, but being a plain I won´t have to deal with any mountain passes for quite some time, thank god. Wind is probably going to be the biggest obstacle along with the road conditions.<br />
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Despìte bailing out on the Lagunas route and taking a lift to Uyuni, I´m glad I gave it a try. Through trial and error I have learned that high altitude mountain passes are not for me! My body really doesn´t like them, I won´t make that mistake again... at least for a while. Later on, this trip will take me back up to 4,000 metres as I head towards La Paz, but it won´t be nearly as bad as the 4,700 metres dirt road passes I just encountered. I had some amazing moments on this leg of the trip, especially spending carnival with the Bolivian family at Salar de Chalviri. However I´m not sure if I would recommend it to anyone. Even the tourist that did the journey in jeeps complained of the monotony of the landscape and how slowly it changed. It´s a lot slower on a bicycle!<br />
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<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/10/bolivian-altiplano-and-la-paz.html" target="_blank">(next page: Uyuni to La Paz)</a><br />
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-29547288410939375902015-02-13T23:51:00.001+09:002015-10-01T19:24:10.661+09:00The Atacama Desert (Antofagasta to San Pedro)<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/san-pedro-to-uyuni.html" target="_blank">(next post: San Pedro to Uyuni)</a><br />
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If you looking at this post for the photos, scroll down as the landscape gets exponentially more spectacular.<br />
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Ever since hatching a plan to come and cycle in South America, the Atacama desert has rated high on my list of places to hit up. Why? I suppose it's because the desert is about the least British environment I could think of. I lived in South Korea for a long time, which is incredibly humid in the summer, whereas the Atacama desert would be bone dry. It is an environment that is way out of my comfort zone and I do like a challenge. I was not necessarily expecting it to be a fun experience. In fact I anticipated a lot of boredom and nasty winds. So why bother? Because the destination is so much more rewarding when you have worked for it, much like food tasting better when you have developed real hunger, or a drink when you are parched. It seems to me that you appreciate places a lot more when you have put in an effort to get there. So frequently I speak to underwhelmed tourists who have just hopped off a bus. When you are tired and exhausted, your desire to just stop and soak everything up is far greater.<br />
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The Atacama desert is huge, but I chose to ride a relatively short route from Antofagasta, on the coast, to San Pedro de Atacama, at the foot of the Andes. The total distance is around 331 kilometres. I thought I would be able to do it in two or three days. San Pedro de Atacama is located at around 2,400 metres above sea level, so it would be a slow, gradual climb. I figured that it would be a relatively fast ride.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330135688" title="atacama01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama01" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8569/16330135688_66d93a31c8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Ignore the arrows on the map. I'm not doing that route. I went from Antofagasta to San Pedro via Calama.<br />
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Way back in the Lake District I made the decision to take the bus from Santiago to Antofagasta, the reason being that Chile is a pretty expensive country to visit and your money vanishes really quickly. The cycling in Chile has been amazing, but for the most part it has been very comfortable and pretty easy. Bolivia is where the paved roads stop and the adventure really begins. It also happens to be a really cheap country which means I can make this trip last longer. As I am unemployed at the moment I have complete freedom where time is concerned, but when my money runs out, it's game over. So, it made sense to skip to the places I really want to cycle and the final section that I wanted to cycle was the Atacama desert. From San Pedro it is a day of cycling before you get to Bolivia on the Altiplano.<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Antofagasta to Carmen Alto (104km)</b></span><br />
I got stuck in Antofagasta for five days waiting for my bicycle to arrive from Santiago. To say I was keen to leave would be a massive understatement. I was dying to leave! Hanging around a city when I wanted to be riding a bicycle was intensely frustrating, so when the opportunity to leave came along I shot of of there like a greyhound...for about 2 kilometres.<br />
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Antofagasta is trapped between the mountains and the sea and there is only one way out. You guessed right, OVER THE MOUNTAIN! I knew there would be a climb, but I had no idea how bad it would be. I think it was a 9km climb with an elevation of around 550 metres and it destroyed me. My bike was heavier than ever. I had just stocked up on food supplies and was carrying eight litres of water. I had also been a lazy bastard for the best part of two weeks, so I was not in good shape.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516823632" title="atacama03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama03" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/16516823632_a8c87b9db7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Heading out over the mountains there was rubbish scattered all over the desert landscape. Seeing this cross amongst it all made me wonder if Jesus would approve, haha. Come on guys, sort your mess out!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16517864365" title="atacama02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama02" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/16517864365_9be83e9224.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I had no idea how long the ascent would take and it ruined my legs. My right knee, which has been fine for this entire trip, suddenly started to ache nastily. My left calf muscle became tight and knotted.<br />
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Once over the hill there was a little descent that did not make up for the climb. As I stopped to take some photos a pack of stray desert dogs spotted me from about 100 metres away and came in hot pursuit. I bricked my pants and started pedalling like a lunatic to get away from them. It was not what my legs wanted at that point in time.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331574869" title="atacama04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama04" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8585/16331574869_13cf69721d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330393030" title="atacama05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama05" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/16330393030_27f416ffab.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I headed north east along route five in the direction of Calama. Being in the desert landscape felt surreal to me. I have visited several deserts before and lived in Saudi Arabia for a short while before coming to South America, but I have never cycled in one. It felt surreal to be in this environment and it was invigorating.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330392980" title="atacama06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama06" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/16330392980_ed5d65ec03.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
An humongous work of art on the desert hillside near Baquedano.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895278514" title="atacama07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama07" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8662/15895278514_c481e84631.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"El corazon del desierto" - The heart of the desert.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Atacama - How was the desert heat? </span></b><br />
All over Chile people kept telling me how roasting it would be in the desert and especially in the city Calama. Obviously I'm not going to head into a desert without doing some research. I checked the average temperatures in the summer and the average high is only around 25ºC. I was pretty skeptical of this. It surely has to be hotter than that. If all those Chileans say it is sweltering, then it must be! Well, the sun is incredibly strong in the desert - I won't deny that - but it is not very hot. When you are pedalling under the intense rays you do feel like you are cooking a little, but it really is not so bad. The temperatures I experienced down south in the wine region around Talca were far greater. However, it was very humid by the coast in Antofagasta.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331944127" title="atacama08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama08" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7430/16331944127_6a6f40c2ec.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I took a couple of hours off at the height of the day to escape the sunshine and get some lunch in Baquedano. I saw this PEE sign which made me chuckle. I am pretty juvenile after all. I regret not putting my camera on self timer and taking an action shot of myself pissing all over it. Opportunity lost!<br />
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I ended the day camping out by a remote petrol station at the junction of routes 5 and 25. There were quite a few people trying to hitch hike from there, so we formed a little campsite together.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Carmen Alto to Calama (118km)</span></b><br />
I slept pretty badly at Carmen Alto. During the night my bowels got nasty. I came down with a vicious bout of diarrhoea. I put it down to the ceviche I ate in Antofagasta, but in truth it could have been anything. It would be an interesting ride!<br />
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I was awoken by an employee at around 6am, so I slowly got my stuff together. Having a tender stomach I chose to eat a bunch of fruit for breakfast. I was also feeling pretty lazy and couldn't be bothered to set up my stove and cook anything.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895278394" title="atacama09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama09" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/15895278394_c31d34186d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It was cloudy and pretty cold when I set off. My legs were still pretty screwed from the climb out of Antofagasta the day before. I found this pretty worrying. I also had a bit of a headache. I was aiming to get to Sierra Gorda which was only 46km away. It took much longer than anticipated. As you can see from the photo above it looks completely flat to the eye, but it is a slight uphill. I find these types of climbs the most frustrating. There was a slight headwind, so my average speed was low. It was an overcast day and it really increased the monotony of the ride. It was not all that enjoyable. I think the grey sky was affecting my mindset.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516823772" title="atacama10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama10" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/16516823772_a556ca45fc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The stretch between Carmen Alto and Sierra Gorda had a lot of crumbling old buildings, the remnants of old industry.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330392810" title="atacama11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama11" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/16330392810_1997e85d4f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Away off from the road I spotted this eery graveyard.<br />
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I stopped off at Sierra Gorda. It's a small village close to Spence Mine. A lot of the buses passing through to San Pedro stop here. I saw some women hold up some signs for empanadas at a cafe, so I went for a closer inspection. I had a spot of lunch there, then fell asleep sat upright in my chair. One of the women spotted me dozing off and said that I could take a nap inside the building. It must have doubled as a hotel. I was pretty happy to get some sleep in a comfortable bed. I was about to go to the plaza and nap in the shade, but this was far better. I ended up sleeping for a couple of hours.<br />
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After waking up I got back on the bike and headed towards Spence mine. The sleep had done me the world of good. I felt so much better. My legs had completely stopped aching. My knee was fine. The sun was shining. I was really in the mood for cycling.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330135758" title="atacama12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama12" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7303/16330135758_ea213b692e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491843526" title="atacama13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama13" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/16491843526_5d68c266dc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516823952" title="atacama14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama14" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/16516823952_94f21dc142.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The slow climb continued. There was a brief spell after Sierra Gorda where I picked up a bit of speed, but it didn't last long. The road weaved around Spence Mine and stretched out into the distance. I was simply chasing the horizon a lot of the time.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516140651" title="atacama15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama15" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8668/16516140651_ffd09e6fbc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Plants! This desert is really dry and there isn't much life, but it can be found, especially by the side of the road. I also so a few dragonflies way out in the middle of nowhere.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331575309" title="atacama16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama16" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8625/16331575309_4ea4933d2c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Pretty much the only things you see out there are related to the mining industry.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331944767" title="atacama17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama17" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/16331944767_20875ffd38.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I finally reached a pass late in the afternoon. I thought I might get a little respite, but the downhill was shortlived. After this spot the road veered left then shot directly to Calama. When the city came into vision it was a huge relief. It hadn't been a difficult day of cycling, but it was slow and unexciting. My guts were giving me some serious grief too. Throughout the course of the day I had to take about five roadside dumps. In a few spots I was fortunate to find some mounds of dirt to do the business behind, but in a couple of places there was nowhere to hide, so I just propped up my bicycle on its kickstand and dropped the kids off in full view of the passing traffic. What can you do? So you can imagine how happy I was to see the city. Soon I would have the luxury of a real toilet!<br />
<br />
One of the things I love about the landscape is how close things appear when they are actually miles away. Calama was probably about a further 20km away when I spotted it, so it took over an hour and at least another roadside poop before I finally got there. The desert makes the city looks so small.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895279094" title="atacama18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama18" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/15895279094_d364e1c62d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
First priority, diarrhoea medicine.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330136588" title="atacama19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama19" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/16330136588_079dbec521.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16517865085" title="atacama20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama20" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/16517865085_ba28940930.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I stayed two nights in Calama. It's not a particularly interesting town. Most people are here to work at the mines. I just wanted to rest up and hoped that my guts would clear up before I went on my final leg to San Pedro de Atacama.<br />
<br />
When I was in Punta Arenas I spent Christmas in a hostel with a bunch of Chileans from Santiago. I knew that they were not going to be in Santiago when I visited, but I had no idea that they were doing an internship in Calama working at some of the mines here. It was a nice surprise, so I got to meet up with them and have a spot of food and some beer on my second night.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Calama to San Pedro de Atacama (109km)</span></b><br />
Day three promised to be a much more interesting ride. I had been told that the landscape would be much more interesting as I approached San Pedro. Calama is 2,200 metres above sea level and San Pedro is at 2,450 metres above sea level, but they are separated by a 3,400 metre pass which is easily the highest altitude that I have been on this trip so far.<br />
<br />
I made a pretty late start to the day. I met a 60 year old Korean man who was travelling around South America by himself. He was a Vipassana meditation instructor. That's not what you expect an ajossi to tell you, so we chatted for a little while.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331944537" title="atacama21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama21" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/16331944537_5bdbd9993e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The roadside shrines start to incorporate vehicles after Calama.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516824262" title="atacama22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama22" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/16516824262_f1ace9776d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16517864955" title="atacama23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama23" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/16517864955_fdbfaa5b2a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Leaving Calama you head towards a wind farm on the horizon. Seemingly close, it's actually 20km<br />
away. Even several hours after passing it you can still see it.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330136298" title="atacama24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama24" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/16330136298_319291ba49.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16517864845" title="atacama25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama25" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7445/16517864845_a5c58228f2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After 50km I took a lunch break. There was no shelter, so I got away from the road and cooked up some noodles.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330393140" title="atacama26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama26" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/16330393140_00fa2a5420.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After lunch I was in hot pursuit of Paso Barros Arana (3,400 metres) on the horizon. The climb was not steep, but at that altitude I started to get tired really quickly. I actually had no idea that the pass was so high until afterwards and explained a lot. I got really out of breath.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491844756" title="atacama27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama27" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/16491844756_4e199e6501.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491844746" title="atacama28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama28" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/16491844746_8a8d5e877d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330393970" title="atacama29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama29" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/16330393970_3f5ef6d512.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897682123" title="atacama30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama30" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8570/15897682123_5c347f2e55.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Paso Barros Arana (3,400 metres)</span></b><br />
After three days of cycling up hill everything changes very suddenly. Sure, it was just a gentle incline most of the way, but never really have any opportunity to freewheel, so what was about to come felt simply amazing. An unbelievable descent of around 1,000 metres down to the valley. The views on display were astounding.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331945227" title="atacama31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama31" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/16331945227_119df0fb41.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897682053" title="atacama32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama32" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7408/15897682053_e41f1737de.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Suddenly, the Andes were back in view. Snow capped volcanoes everywhere.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331575519" title="atacama33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama33" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/16331575519_a853a33954.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The clouds hover over the Altiplano on the other side of the valley.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491844556" title="atacama34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama34" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/16491844556_3d04b4af37_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Bombing down the hill you practically get a birds eye view of the Cordillera de la Sal (Salt Mountains).<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897682023" title="atacama35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama35" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/15897682023_b8a6ba7207.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
But it was cold and cloudy up there. I got rained on! Fortunately the storm brewing whipped up some tailwinds which kept me ahead of the bad weather.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897681983" title="atacama36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama36" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/15897681983_3f9e61df6b_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330137638" title="atacama37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama37" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7418/16330137638_5e97cc7953_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
More car wrecks and roadside shrines.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895279964" title="atacama38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama38" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/15895279964_75419615aa.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895279954" title="atacama39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama39" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/15895279954_1685c90d3c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After the massive hillbomb you have to climb over the Cordillera de la sal. I spotted some mountains bikers riding off road, so I decided to pursue them and see what they were going to check out. I was not expecting these views. The mirador had a spectacular vista over the most magnificent valley with some otherworldly rock formations. This felt like more than ample reward for three days of cycling over a monotonous barren landscape. I was being spoiled! I knew it would be picturesque in these parts, but had no idea how much.<br />
<br />
From here I got spoiled even more. The landscape rolled out the red carpet as I rode down the winding highway towards San Pedro.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516141271" title="atacama40 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama40" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/16516141271_eb549bd384.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331945567" title="atacama41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama41" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7347/16331945567_e05d7942c7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516141181" title="atacama42 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama42" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8613/16516141181_01b5d3dea5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
San Pedro is a very small town. It is extremely popular with tourist and it is understandable why. The region is full of things to do and see. The only downside is that it is packed with tourists, but that doesn't bother me. It is popular for a reason. I decided that I would stay in San Pedro for a few days, take a couple of tours and prepare for the next stage of my journey.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Valle de la Luna</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331575899" title="atacama43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama43" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/16331575899_9850c7a24f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516825142" title="atacama44 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama44" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/16516825142_1af5fb43f6_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16517865855" title="atacama45 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama45" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/16517865855_5374a67d19.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330137228" title="atacama46 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama46" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/16330137228_52ef1d1e68.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331946067" title="atacama47 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama47" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/16331946067_0c9ec13ddc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Valle de La Muerte</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331576259" title="atacama48 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama48" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/16331576259_9059aa91cd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330394640" title="atacama49 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama49" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/16330394640_2294f31f11_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">El Mirador</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897682843" title="atacama50 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama50" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/15897682843_bed9878b14_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491845286" title="atacama51 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama51" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8649/16491845286_4b12514210.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16516141501" title="atacama52 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama52" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/16516141501_f30a52b573.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tatio Geysers</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331945797" title="atacama53 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama53" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/16331945797_9dc4e5304d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491845146" title="atacama54 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama54" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/16491845146_ab690d7b43.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331945717" title="atacama55 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama55" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/16331945717_1380477435.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330394440" title="atacama56 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama56" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8641/16330394440_3bfd7e07dc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16330138458" title="atacama57 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama57" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/16330138458_d3695f82d5_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331946707" title="atacama58 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama58" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7402/16331946707_e4ca0838bd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331576889" title="atacama59 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama59" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/16331576889_38f6077380.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331946577" title="atacama60 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama60" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/16331946577_2ed4b891a6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Andean Flamingos<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331576729" title="atacama61 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama61" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/16331576729_f4a5e42844.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Vicuña grazing.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331576589" title="atacama62 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama62" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/16331576589_41665b10b9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Giant Coot<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331946267" title="atacama63 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama63" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/16331946267_b9d1570aee.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Viscacha. Weird rodents that are related to chinhillas, but look like rabbits with strangre platypus tails.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16331946227" title="atacama64 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama64" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/16331946227_22bed01496.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Llamas. Not to be confused with guanacos and vicuñas. We had llama kebabs shortly after this in Machuca village.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16491845466" title="atacama65 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="atacama65" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/16491845466_7a67587e9f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I am going to spend another day in San Pedro de Atacama preparing for my ride onto the Bolivian Altiplano. I will be taking the Lagunas route. It is going to be a very tough ten day ride from San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni on the salt flats. As usual when you mention it to people you have to listen to a tidal wave of pessimism. It's not possible. It's snowing. There will be storms. You will die of dehydration. Typical reaction from non cyclists who have done no research on the matter. Lots of people cycle this route and it is notoriously brutal, but stunning. I anticipate high winds, rain, sub zero nights, lots of sand, dirt, gravel and rocks, and plenty of pushing the bike. It probably won't be fun, but it will be memorable. Also, everything will feel easy afterwards! It's a very remote road and I won't be in much company, but the tours from San Pedro to Uyuni take this route, so worst case scenario I will always be able to get help when the 4x4s roll by once a day.<br />
<br />
There is a wealth of information online about it. I downloaded a great little pdf with lots of information about the route. Here's the link:<br />
<a href="http://www.tour.tk/pdf/cycling-southwest-bolivia.pdf" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.tour.tk/pdf/cycling-southwest-bolivia.pdf" target="_blank">Cycling Southwest Bolivia</a><br />
<br />
This will be my last post for a while as I will be off the grid.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/san-pedro-to-uyuni.html" target="_blank">(next post: San Pedro to Uyuni)</a><br />
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-784051967436856892015-02-07T04:10:00.000+09:002015-10-01T19:26:02.450+09:00Stranded in Antofagasta<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/the-atacama-desert-antofagasta-to-san.html" target="_blank">(next post: The Atacama Desert - Antofagasta to San Pedro)</a><br />
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I was so eager to get back on the bike when I left Santiago. I had envisaged spending two nights in Antofagasta before setting off across the Atacama desert to San Pedro de Atacama. Well that didn't happen. Tonight will be my fifth night in this city and I can't wait to leave in the morning and get pedalling again. I arrived on Monday evening and went to ask about my bicycle at the bus terminal on Tuesday morning. I was informed that my bicycle would arrive on FRIDAY! Bollocks.<br />
<br />
Antofagasta is the second largest city in Chile and it is easily the most expensive. I would recommend skipping this city. Being parked here has been a pricey affair. It has made me really eager to get to Bolivia as soon as possible, because it will radically cheaper in comparison. It's really humid here on the coast, but that will change once I get inland. The atacama desert is the driest and oldest desert on the planet.<br />
<br />
If you look online for things to do in Antofagasta you soon realise that there really isn't anything special here to do other than the normal stuff to kill time in cities. Most places of interest are nowhere near the city and I mean MILES away. I have mostly spent my time eating food and drinking wine. Basically I've been doing my utmost to get out of shape before I commence cycling again.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15835868434" title="Mountain Graffiti by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Mountain Graffiti" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/15835868434_6b14706e74.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Someone graffed up the mountains! The city is long and thin, stretched out along the coastline, sandwiched between the Pacific ocean and the desert mountains. The sketchy neighbourhoods are up on the hillsides. Antofagasta has a far grittier feel than Santiago. The centre is full of sketchy looking bars and prostitutes, but the beaches in the south are lined with expensive bars. The mining industry and the isolated location in the desert explain the astronomical prices here.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15835868474" title="El Bigote by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="El Bigote" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7454/15835868474_a005336279.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I got bored pretty quickly, so I decided to go for some new facial hair. Chops and a moustache from now on. I will try and rock it for as long as possible. At the moment I'm quite enjoying the look.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16270959640" title="pastel de jaiba by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="pastel de jaiba" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/16270959640_0ed524fffe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Pastel de jaiba - crab pie.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16432392556" title="Beach Antofagasta by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Beach Antofagasta" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8566/16432392556_455d10a3b4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
You can't really tell in this picture, but this is a bunch of people dancing in unison to some intense Latin pop music, following the moves of the dance instructors under the gazebo at the top.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16272151839" title="Beach Antofagasta by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Beach Antofagasta" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/16272151839_d2a4bded39.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16270698418" title="Cathedral by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Cathedral" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/16270698418_6e8c151ca7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15835869034" title="Mountains by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Mountains" height="800" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8653/15835869034_b2424d08fd_c.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16432393396" title="Empanadas by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Empanadas" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7333/16432393396_bd3af3a412.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Easily my favourite thing in Antofagasta has been the fish market down by the water. I stuffed my face with ceviche and empanadas.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16270960820" title="Ceviche by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Ceviche" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7435/16270960820_92ec8c7d5f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Ceviche.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16432393856" title="Seal by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Seal" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/16432393856_b40099588b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Kiss from a rose.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16456651621" title="La Caleta by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="La Caleta" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7353/16456651621_bd1635407d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
There are several seals just mooching around by the fish market. I stood and watched them for quite a while, observing their battle scars.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16432394876" title="Fish Market by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Fish Market" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/16432394876_25c417cb33.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16457452952" title="Fish Market by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Fish Market" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7340/16457452952_96e9d63335.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16457453022" title="Empanada by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Empanada" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8568/16457453022_5b2ed5b1a6_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Ostión y queso empanada (Oyster and cheese)<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16456652841" title="Empanada by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Empanada" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8633/16456652841_f62e2e92ef.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Pulpo y queso empanada (Octopus and cheese)<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16457452102" title="Choripan by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Choripan" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/16457452102_d10143f97d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Choripan!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16457452292" title="Turkey Vultures by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Turkey Vultures" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/16457452292_52ce357c5a_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Turkey Vultures in Plaza Colón. These birds are all over the city.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16270699798" title="Battered bike box by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Battered bike box" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7374/16270699798_5981463a59.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Oh dear. Look at that box. I dread to look inside.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16270961750" title="You prat! by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="You prat!" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8570/16270961750_5d517492fc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Prat! Is the world trying to tell me something?<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16458401425" title="Crystal Ball by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Crystal Ball" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/16458401425_a63d71dae8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
All over Chile you'll see people juggling and performing other types of hippy bullshit for cash at traffic lights. This was the first time I had seen someone using a crystal ball.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16270700748" title="Django's back!!! by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Django's back!!!" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/16270700748_02cf9442e7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
Django! In one piece! Actually the rear mudguard was completely mangled. I've managed to get it more or less into its original shape. At least it works, even if it looks a little fucked up.<br />
<br />
After spending 10 days or so off the bicycle I've been going a little stir crazy. I'm pretty relieved to have all my stuff together at last. I plan on leaving shortly after dawn as it is really cool in the mornings. By midday it will be roasting.<br />
<br />
I am really excited about the next part of this trip. The desert is a completely new landscape for me and it is going to quite a challenge. I've heard many different things about the desert. The latest scare stories I have heard is about dangerous wild dogs and UXO (unexploded ordnance from conflicts between Bolivia ands Chile). One thing I have learned is that people love to give a forecast of danger and doom. Whatever it is like, it is going to be completely different to the south of Chile. It certainly won't be so easy. Bolivia is going to be where it gets really tough! I really can't wait. I have no idea how my body is going to deal with the high altitude and freezing cold nights.<br />
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Right, I'm off to get some food for the next few days. I hope to make it to San Pedro in two or three days, depending on the weather and the landscape, so I should get there on Sunday or Monday. The latter being the more realistic estimate.<br />
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<a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/the-atacama-desert-antofagasta-to-san.html" target="_blank">(next post: The Atacama Desert - Antofagasta to San Pedro)</a><br />
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-2218906835928466872015-02-03T12:38:00.001+09:002015-02-07T04:26:30.972+09:00Santiago (off the bike)(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/stranded-in-antofagasta.html" target="_blank">Stranded in Antofagasta</a>)<br />
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I spent a little too long in Santiago, but I certainly enjoyed my time there. I had heard a few people give the city some underwhelming reviews so I went there expecting very little, but I was pleasantly surprised. It is a really vibrant city surrounded by mountains with some fantastic vistas. I certainly preferred it to Buenos Aires.<br />
<br />
My only real complaint about Santiago is the the drivers. If you want to cycle on the roads then this city sucks, especially the collectivo drivers. If you're not sure what a "collectivo" is, it is essentially a shared taxi that follows a specific route. Anybody can jump in. It's basically a taxi having an identity crisis. It's a little too embarassed by the middle class status of being a taxi, but not quite prepared to stoop so low as to being a bus, so it becomes COLLECTIVO!!!<br />
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I had arranged to be hosted by Leonardo, a Colombian guy I met on the couchsurfing website. I had arranged to stay with him from Tuesday onwards, but I arrived in Santiago a day earlier than planned (as detailed in my <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/altos-del-lircay-temuco-to-santiago.html" target="_blank">last post</a>), so I chose to stay in a hostel for one. Somebody recommended that I stay in Bellavista, which is a very lively neighbourhood. Even on a Sunday the streets were heaving. It is certainly not low on action!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16246181217" title="santiago01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago01" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/16246181217_d99140d6fe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16245838869" title="santiago02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago02" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8633/16245838869_5359f02371.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16244433058" title="santiago03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago03" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/16244433058_a31032fc06.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
On my second day I had a lot of time to kill before meeting Leonardo, so I sniffed out a Korea restaurant and ordered some 오징어 볶음. I can't tell you how much I miss Korean food. This was the first time I've had some since being on this continent, so I was pretty damn excited. It was a little too early for makkoli though (sad face). My only complaint is that the kimchi was fresh. I like that stuff when it's jurassic and becomes all yellow and translucent.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16431151782" title="santiago04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago04" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7455/16431151782_5af06e4744.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This is the view from Leonardo's apartment. I stayed with him for four nights. He was incredibly laidback and I felt very welcome. I got to meet a bunch of his friends and went out on the town a couple of times. Unfortunately he got quite sick just before I left.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Cerro Santa Lucia</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15812040693" title="santiago05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago05" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/15812040693_1973158a59_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16432088705" title="santiago06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago06" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7333/16432088705_c530337101.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16431151102" title="santiago07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago07" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8654/16431151102_d6f5c05fff.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16406110786" title="santiago08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago08" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7448/16406110786_fd1450d8f7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We went to a couchsurfing event at a bar in Bellavista, then onwards to a small nightclub that had some live Colombian style "cumbia" music. Afterwards hunger struck. Hotdogs were on the line. I was getting a little bleary eyed at that point. I remember ordering a hot dog Italiano and thinking that it was rather expensive. The reason why became evident rather quickly. Look at the size of the bloody thing! It was MASSIVE!!!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15809573784" title="santiago09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago09" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8571/15809573784_d72df342d9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Despite enjoying Santiago I became eager to get back on the road again. Seeing this guy at the crossing - on his phone doing deals - hammered home just how much I can't be bothered with cities anymore. But this photo tells a lie as he seemed to enjoy the whole thing. I think the photo reflects more the way I feel about his life. It feels good to be a million miles from office culture.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16430327251" title="santiago10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago10" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/16430327251_571cd0e3f3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15812039093" title="santiago11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago11" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8626/15812039093_d6d88fea35.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
ACAB. You'll find this graffiti all over the world. Universal stuff.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Free Tour of Santiago</span></b><br />
The one touristy thing that I would highly recommend doing is the free tour that leave from the Plaza de Armas. It starts at 10am everyday and last about 4 hours. We had a really vivacious guide named Franco. It is a tip based business, so you can just donate whatever you feel is appropriate.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16246178857" title="santiago12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago12" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/16246178857_357970040a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15809572894" title="santiago13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago13" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/15809572894_6732211a74_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16245836089" title="santiago14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago14" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/16245836089_84683d9776_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Equipment</span></b><br />
After getting my fix of tourism it was time to get down to business and run some errands. The most pressing issue was my broken Ortlieb panniers. One of the mount attachments snapped off while riding and the pannier ripped as it was being dragged along.<br />
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I emailed Ortlieb and they were very swift with their response. They would send out a replacement pannier to me. In theory this is fantastic and I really appreciate it, but in then end I figured it would be simpler for them to send the replacement to England for when I get back. I chose to buy a new set of panniers. I would have spent the same amount of money just hanging around Santiago for a week. I had already been in the city for nearly a week and was eager to get back on the road.<br />
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Hilleberg also replied about my tent and they are going to replace my tent poles and fix the material for me. Again, they were willing to post out to South America, but the current poles should just about last the rest of the trip, so I will wait till I get back home.<br />
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I also dropped some cash on a Katadyn water filter pump and a new fleece. I lost my old fleece when I was in the Lake District region of Chile. It is bloody hot in Chile where I am at the moment but the nights get chilly. It is only going to get worse. Once I'm up on the Bolivian Altiplano - a plain with an average height of around 3,750 metres - the night temperatures will drop to well below 0ºC. I hope it will be a little forgiving as it is summer. Water is becoming an issue too. In the south it is quite all right to drink the tap water, but I have been told that the quality of tap water in the north is questionable. That is my justification for buying the Katadyn water filter. I will be heading into some really remote areas as well, so I want to be able to drink water from streams safely.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Cerro San Cristobal</span></b><br />
Leonardo put me in touch with Tania, one of his friends who is into cycling, so we went for a spin up Cerro San Cristobal which has fantastic panoramic views over the whole city. I enjoyed it so much that I went up again towards sunset on my final night in Santiago.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16244682750" title="santiago15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago15" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8632/16244682750_523873abd2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16244429818" title="santiago16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago16" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/16244429818_8be4a5b854.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16406108156" title="santiago17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago17" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/16406108156_5bc37b54fe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Leaving Santiago</span></b><br />
Once I got all my equipment sorted it was time to leave Santiago. Initially I thought that I would get the bus straight to Antofagasta where I would set off across the Atacama desert, but a quick trip to the bus terminal changed that.<br />
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I asked around various companies about taking my bicycle with me on the bus, but none of them were very helpful. I went back to my hostel and asked the Chilean guy who works there to call the bus company. They said that I could take a bike on the bus if it was BOXED!!! This is a little ridiculous. Vijay and I took three separate buses with our bikes and didn't have any such trouble.<br />
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In the end I decided just to ride out of Santiago and see what would happen. I really didn't have a plan I dabbled with the idea of having a go at hitch hiking with my bicycle. I saw a few good spots outside of the city, but it seems that there are a lot of hitchhikers here. The roads were saturated with them, so I just kept pedalling. About 118km later I rolled into La Calera, a small town on the bus route. I knew this bus terminal wouldn't be so busy and I might be able to get the bus from there.<br />
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There was one seat left for the 1am bus to Antofagasta, so I bought it. I had to wait around for about five hours for the bus to arrive. When it did, the driver said that they wouldn't be able to take the bike. The lady who works for Tur-Bus kindly arranged for my bicycle to be brought up to Antofagasta on a cargo bus the next day. It was better than nothing. Right now I am bicycle-less but it is expected to arrive in the morning. Fingers crossed!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16430324871" title="santiago18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago18" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/16430324871_08804482fe.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16432084825" title="santiago19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago19" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/16432084825_5d760b3085.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Another road shrine.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16244428478" title="santiago20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago20" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8647/16244428478_8c38bafb45.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15812036503" title="santiago21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago21" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8659/15812036503_f9fca75d3b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15812036433" title="santiago22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago22" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/15812036433_e4dc512277.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The landscape becomes much drier north of Santiago. Cacti popping up all over the place.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16245833709" title="santiago24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="santiago24" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8606/16245833709_db362b8046.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This was dinner. A chorillana for two, in bed! Antofagasta seems to be a pretty bleak town where the desert meets the sea. It's mostly mining up here, so it has a strange vibe. I haven't had a moment to explore, but I don't really plan to. As soon as I get my bicycle I will go shopping for provisions then set off the following morning. I am eager to get cycling again. I am dying to spend a night camping under the desert skies.<br />
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It's about 300km to San Pedro de Atacama and I imagine that it will take about 3 days, but it depends on the wind. I have been told that it is a slow gradual climb up to 2,407 meters, so that shouldn't be too difficult. The same person told me that I should have tailwinds assisting me for the first stretch to Calama, but I'm not going to get my hopes up about that. Everything is up in the air.<br />
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Watch this space.<br />
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(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/stranded-in-antofagasta.html" target="_blank">Stranded in Antofagasta</a>)Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-14772284607270728642015-01-28T03:34:00.001+09:002015-02-07T04:25:37.366+09:00Altos Del Lircay (Temuco to Santiago)(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/santiago-off-bike.html" target="_blank">Santiago - off the bike</a>)<br />
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The highlight of this next section is definitely hiking at Los Altos del Lircay, so feel free to scroll down if photos of roads bore you!<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Going Solo</span></b><br />
It was strange saying goodbye to Vijay the morning I set off from Temuco. We had been travelling together for about six weeks so I had come accustomed to having company on the rides.<br />
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Riding alone can sometimes be a very introspective affair. In the past I have found it quite depressing, usually because of the circumstances in my life at the time - moments of massive change. However this time it felt very comfortable, like it was supposed to be this way. It also allowed me to set myself some goals. Riding can become pretty monotonous so it is good to challenge yourself to add another dimension to your tour. Prior to leaving Temuco I had not ridden a single 100km day. I think the most had been 97km. At first this was fine, but as you get stronger it just becomes too easy. Here are the three goals I set myself:<br />
<ol>
<li>Ride at least 100km a day.</li>
<li>Reach Santiago within 10 days.</li>
<li>Try and do it for less than £100 (GBP)</li>
</ol>
<div>
I'll let you know right now that I failed on the third challenge rather quickly. I simply have a far too voracious appetite. I could have done this easily by just eating porridge, pasta and rice, but what is the point? I'm experiencing a different culture and by cutting out the food experience you are missing out on so much. Hostals have also proved to be quite expensive at times. I'm not too bothered at failing to achieve this goal. They are to aim for. That's it. If you constantly achieve all of your goals, then I think you might be setting the bar a little too low.</div>
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<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day one: Temuco to Los Sauces (123 km)</span></b></div>
The ride out of Temuco was wonderful. It was pretty much a perfect ride through a voluptuous landscape. Climbing uphill for some time, you eventually ride high above the valleys around you, gazing over golden fields of wheat and pine forests. It was harvest time too, so the land was being worked around the clock. Combine harvesters were everywhere.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757936094" title="altos01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos01" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/15757936094_e896cba4a9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15760380053" title="altos02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos02" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/15760380053_5d8636c0fb_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
As you approach Chol Chol you are gifted a sweet downhill of gentle switchbacks.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380382385" title="altos03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos03" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/16380382385_ac9166c0ed.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194487347" title="altos04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos04" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/16194487347_60ed59bc79.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16354401326" title="altos05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos05" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/16354401326_fdb0d0acda.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This guy's name is Ramon. I bumped into him in Galvarino. It was getting pretty hot so I made the decision to take a short break for a lager Shandy. Nothing is quite as refreshing on a roasting day! I grabbed a can of sprite and a can of Becker lager and mixed it up in my empty water bottle. No sooner had I started sipping on my beverage Ramon popped out of nowhere. It was a Sunday, so not much was going on in this sleepy little village. I think the prospect of livening up an otherwise dull day might have proved a little too much for our Ramon. LOCO DOMINGO! Before I knew it he had popped into the store and returned with two cans of Becker. One for me and one for himself. I was taken by surprise at his generosity. We made some attempts to converse, but my Spanish is rather appalling. I managed to be understood, but once he started firing away, I was screwed. I don't think many gringos roll through this neck of the woods and the concept of grading language, or speaking slowly, is probably an alien one. Nonetheless, the patchy dialogue continued. The beers were sunk with ease and Ramon was back into the store to fetch another two cans of Becker. I wasn't asked if I wanted another one. It was a given. So with the volume of a can a sprite and three beers inside me I was getting remarkably gassy. My stomach was bloated. I think Ramon had plans to keep me in town and get me as pissed as a fart. I had to make my excuses and leave before things became a little too much fun.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16354400336" title="altos06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos06" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7422/16354400336_14eec98050_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194485197" title="altos07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos07" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8574/16194485197_118c3f192e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192743868" title="altos08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos08" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/16192743868_b8738b19ce_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
One of my favourite things about cycling trips are the impromptu food stops. I spotted this little family food stand outside Traiguén, so I hit the breaks and pretty much inhaled a Completo Italiano (hot dog, Chilean style) and coca cola.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194152249" title="altos09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos09" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8591/16194152249_0cfcf4bf41.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This is it. I love the feeling of just rolling at your own pace, soaking up everything around you. I can't express how free it makes you feel to just be doing your own thing. No work to worry about. No destination in mind. You're just moving along without a care in the world. Riding alone actually makes the experience more fluid. You can set your own pace, stop when your body feels like it, eat what you want where you want, sleep wherever you feel like it. You can live by impulse, do your own navigation and take your own risks. Nothing has ever given me more freedom. There are the occasional downsides though.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378654231" title="altos10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos10" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8650/16378654231_d17bee2a92_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Before I set off I decided that I would simply ride for 100km and then look for a spot to wild camp. I aimed for a little town called "Los Sauces" where I could get some water and some pasta sauce. I thought that was quite an appropriate place considering the town's name.<br />
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I have been navigating using a cheap road atlas published by COPEC, the Chilean petrol company. I spotted that there was a river after Los Sauces so it seemed that it could be a good spot to camp. I had a vision of a beautiful camp spot for my first night of solo wild camping. Oh how wrong I was. Check the photo out below.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192742198" title="altos11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos11" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/16192742198_e2d15d7f2e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The river was pretty pathetic, but I decided to camp there anyway as I was getting tired after 123km of cycling. The camp spot was quite secluded as it was under a bridge. This would be ideal as I wouldn't get spotted and moved on. It was actually a really ghetto spot and not very pleasant at all. I barely managed to get any sleep due to the traffic overhead. It was not a busy a road, but when trucks thundered past the noise was deafening.<br />
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In the evening when you stop in a crappy spot like this, that's when you start to feel lonely and wish for company. If your camping somewhere more serene, you couldn't care less about company. You just take in the surroundings and recharge, wallowing in your own thoughts.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day two: Los Sauces to Tucapel (131km)</span></b><br />
I woke up very early. I was keen to get away from that rubbish campsite as quickly as possible. It was a grim day as well, just grey skies, so that motivated me to get on the road and get the hell out of there.<br />
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The grey skies didn't last long. For about 30 minutes I could see bright blue skies ahead. It was like having a carrot dangled in front of you for motivation, so I bolted towards it.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380376725" title="altos12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos12" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7408/16380376725_fdcaa8d4c3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The landscape started much like the previous day, then it flattened out. I only intended to ride little over 100km just so I could achieve that goal I had set. I took a huge afternoon break in Los Angeles then got back on the road at 5pm to seek out another camping spot. I asked a few people on the road about "camping agreste". I was under the impression that this meant wild camping, but I don't quite think it's what I had in mind. Everybody spoke of Tucapel, so I headed in that direction to check it out. There was a dirt cheap campsite there and it was by the perfect river for bathing. It felt so good to wade into the cool waters and go for a swim and rinse all the sweaty salt from my skin.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15760373533" title="altos13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos13" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8676/15760373533_e06d5c0235.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16354395896" title="altos14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos14" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/16354395896_42a724ddeb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After a 131km of cycling I like to replenish my spirits with 1 litre of red wine, like any self respecting athlete!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757928094" title="altos15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos15" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7430/15757928094_4853394865.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I met this fella at my campsite. There were a few stray dogs on the campsite, all very friendly. He lay here in a fire pit to get a little shelter from the breeze. Later in the middle of the night I awoke to a noise, so I decided to investigate. This dog had crawled into the vestibule of my tent! I shouted at him and shone my light in his face. His reaction was hilarious. He pretended I wasn't there. He looked in the other direction, but his eyes kept peering back nervously. It was as if he thought that I wouldn't notice him, if only he didn't move. I thought it was funny, but being the scrooge that I am I had to move him out of there. Shouting hadn't worked, so I took it to the next level and grabbed my water bottle. After a couple of seconds of being squirted on, with a look of confusion he dashed out from the tent. He couldn't understand where all this water was coming from. "This is supposed to be a shelter!" I can hear him shouting inside his head. Poor guy. He was so sweet and came looking for me in the morning when I went to the showers.<br />
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Which reminds me. I managed to shit my pants that morning! The last time I did that was also in South America, when I visited Colombia in 2010, but that's another story. I was in my twenties then, but now I'm thirty three, for christ's sake! How did this happen? Quite simple really. I went a little overboard on the aji chileno (chilli sauce) the day before.<br />
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I knew trouble was brewing, so I made a dash for the bathroom. It was the butt clench run, when you're essentially moving along like a really anxious penguin. The problem is that when you get really close to the toilet your mind decides that now is the time to go. I was there. I was in the cubicle. I had made it! Hooray! But on closer inspection I saw that my undies were full of shit. Aww bollocks! Fortunately the shower cubicle was next to the toilet, so I jumped straight in to clean off. No big deal.<br />
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I would like to say that I will learn from my mistakes, but I really love spicy food, so don't be surprised if there are more tales like this later in the trip. I truly hope that you're not eating your breakfast right now. "Couch on wheels" is not a blog for reading at mealtimes I'm afraid. YOU learn from YOUR mistakes! HAHA!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day three: Tucapel to Chillán (93km)</span></b><br />
"Only 93 km? Wait a minute. But what about goal number one?"<br />
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I knew nothing about what lay ahead when I left Temuco two days before, but after doing a little reading I discovered that there was going to be some cool things to do. I also added another goal to my list of things to do - to do a 100 mile ride (161km).<br />
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I rode 123km on day one and 131km on day two. The wine region of Maule valley was just two days ahead of me near Talca which I was really keen to visit, So I had two days to get there. Chillán to Talca was 150km on the Pan American highway, but there was a little detour through Maule town which would add a few extra kilometres. So if I was going to attempt to ride 100 miles (161km) on day four, then day three would have to be slightly under 100km. This was not really a big issue to me. I have no one to answer to and these goals are personal. Personally I was pretty excited to try and ride so far and it seemed like a more significant challenge than riding 100km everyday.<br />
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Once I got to Talca I would have a rest day to recover and drink in some of the local wine! YAY!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192739528" title="altos16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos16" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/16192739528_4f533c82c7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I saw this sad but cool memorial in Huépil as I started my ride.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380373715" title="altos17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos17" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8606/16380373715_af31d2de98.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380373255" title="altos18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos18" height="364" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/16380373255_d56e16b764.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The roads undulated and there were a few tough little climbs and a little wind, but nothing nasty. The Andes were constantly on the horizon keeping me distracted. Must keep my eyes on the road!<br />
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The first three days were all on country roads. Generally the rides on these roads are much more attractive, but the traffic not so much fun. The worst are the timber trucks. They blast past you giving you barely an inch of space and scare the living daylights out of you, then just as you are about to scream bloody murder at them, they leave a delightful waft of pine in their wake. It's so calming. It's like being mugged at knife point, but then the assailant busts out some essential oils and whispers some sweet words in your ear as you gently melt back into your chair all soothed and revitalised.<br />
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The audacity!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15760370553" title="altos19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos19" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/15760370553_31a6b4bcbc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Riding into Chillán I took the cycle path and came across this guy blasting along with a horse in tow. I was not expecting that. He was pretty nonchalant about it.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day three: Chillán to Talca (163km)</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379468402" title="altos20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos20" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/16379468402_4ce9ec8c70.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
What is that? That is my breakfast and yes, it is a hot dog, smothered in avocado, mayo, mustard and the dreaded aji chileno. I told you I wouldn't learn from my mistakes. I love this fast food, but the avocado gives you the worst farts. On many mornings I have awoken in a gas chamber - my tent.<br />
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There weren't many other food options en route to the highway and this only cost £1. As I was going to have a stab at riding 100 miles, there was no way that I was going to start the day on an empty stomach. I like to keep my engine constantly fuelled up. I don't wait until I'm hungry to eat, I just eat all day, that way I don't get tired so easily. I like to think of it like a fire. You need to keep putting logs on the fire. You don't wait for the fire to die then fire it up again.<br />
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Seeing as I like to eat all day I stop whenever I see something interesting. Ruta 5 (the pan american highway) is pretty dull, so food stops are to be enjoyed.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379467902" title="altos21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos21" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/16379467902_27317c4f21.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194145139" title="altos22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos22" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/16194145139_444cd6dd53_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
The first stop was for some <b>mote con huesillo.</b> I don't know if this is a drink or a dessert, but it is cold, sweet and refreshing. It is full of barley and comes with a peach or an apricot in it. It is the perfect thing on a hot day and puts your energy levels through the roof. In Chillán there was a whole street with food stalls that only sold mote con huesillo.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379466712" title="altos23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos23" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8596/16379466712_51245a1570.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This guy had a flat on the side of the highway, so I lent him some of my tools.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380369185" title="altos24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos24" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8563/16380369185_1f02854d70.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It was a long day - mostly flat - and I was beginning to get rather bored and tired around 110km until this guy caught up with me. His name is Christian. We got chatting in Spanish and ended up riding together for ages. He was one his road bike, so he set a good pace a for me. It was like having my own personal domestique! I told him that I was going to take the next day off to visit a vineyard and had some wine, so he called up his friend to let him know about the gringo he was riding with. He arranged for me to visit the Balduzzi in San Javier, so we took a little detour where he dropped me off in the hands of Luis.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16354388216" title="altos25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos25" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/16354388216_f569e0258f_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
This is Luis! He works at the Balduzzi vineyard and also as an English teacher, so we got talking about cycling in the area. After Talca I was planning on visiting Las Siete Tazas for a little hiking, but Luis suggested doing something else instead - ride up to Los Altos del Lircay national reserve. It seemed like a challenging ride so I thought I would give it a go. It was a decision that I would not regret. I am really thankful to Luis for pointing me in the right direction.<br />
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I sampled a couple of gorgeous white wines and bought a bottle of red cabernet sauvignon reserve for later.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380368355" title="altos26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos26" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/16380368355_ab6b01e7a2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Chillán is still recovering from a massive earthquake that struck in 2010. I was in New Zealand at the time. Lots of buildings were destroyed and you can still see the scars. So much of the city is under construction.<br />
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As I rode into town I was a little under 100 miles, so I explored the city looking for places to stay and finally clocked up 163km. Boom! Now where's that wine bottle opener?<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day five: Rest day, Maule Valley, Viña Gillmore</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378644361" title="altos27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos27" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/16378644361_87d76781b9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Plaza de Armas<br />
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Luis also recommended that I visited the Gillmore vineyard, so I took his word and went to check it out. It is in a lovely setting and they have a load of bizarre animals there too. A German girl was doing some work there, so I asked for the tour to be done in Spanish by her. That was she could practice it a little more and I could try and improve my listening.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379463142" title="altos28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos28" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/16379463142_c8743acc29.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378643061" title="altos29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos29" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/16378643061_89509a36c1_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378642381" title="altos30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos30" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/16378642381_8eb27ba7b1_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757918854" title="altos31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos31" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/15757918854_2727912127.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379460912" title="altos32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos32" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/16379460912_597b0923bb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
What did I buy? A cabernet franc. I went back to the hostel, bought a massive chorizo and a block of strong Dutch Montana cheese, then ate the lots. Freaky dreams ensued.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day six. Talca to Altos del Lircay Reserva Nacional (70km).</span></b><br />
70km seems like a pretty easy ride these days, however this ride came with a sting in its tail. All will be revealed.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378639841" title="altos34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos34" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7350/16378639841_303167ff17.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I stopped off from some food in San Clemente at restaurant "El Bigote". Before consulting my dictionary I thought this name must mean "The Bigot". Turns out that it means "The moustache"- most appropriate given the owner's facial hair. He reminded me of a Chilean verison of my Dad in his later years.<br />
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I ended up ordering Pollo Mariscal. Mussel soup with chicken and a healthy dose of papas fritas. It's like a Chilean moules frites with a twist.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16354383516" title="altos33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos33" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/16354383516_469e120068.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757915074" title="altos36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos36" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8572/15757915074_3caf5a856d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
That sting in the tail is coming up soon!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757915634" title="altos35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos35" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/15757915634_eb0f876c84.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This was my last stop before pressing on to Altos Del Lircay. Lager shandy and lots of natter. The lady gave me a massive bag of blueberries for free to put in my porridge. Yes, porridge was a topic of discussion. That's the kind of chat I like to indulge in. Call me up if you want to talk oats.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194136359" title="altos37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos37" height="300" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8632/16194136359_5efa0da1b1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Suffering imminent...<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379457452" title="altos38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos38" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7335/16379457452_cd678636c1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
POW!!!!! Look at that sign! It tells no lies.<br />
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The first 40km of this ride were virtually flat, perhaps a slight upwards incline as I was riding up a valley. The next 10km were undulating hills, but on really nice roads. The final 19km was a very steep climb up gravel roads (ripio) at some time quite corrugated. It took a LONG time to get up there. My legs haven't felt that kind of pain in a very long time. I was exhausted the whole time, just dripping with sweat. The trees provided little shelter from the sun.<br />
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As I approached Vilches Alto I started to feel somewhat relieved that I was getting close. It was to be short lived. Once you get to the park it's at least another 2km to get to the campsite and the road quality is simply shocking. It's not a road, it's a rocky and dusty trail and almost unridable one a fully loaded touring bike. I invite you to take a peek...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192725608" title="altos39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos39" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/16192725608_708dc3d15e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Yeah, that bad!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192724808" title="altos40 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos40" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7440/16192724808_3e2b83fdd6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
At this point I got off to push, only I couldn't! The road was so steep and my bike so heavy that I basically started moonwalking in the slippery dust. Riding was a better option, but it was terrible. The rocks were huge that steering became almost impossible. It was certainly the slowest 2km I have ever "cycled", if you can call it that. There were lots of incredibly shorts burst of frantic pedalling, usually resulting in near crashes, followed by moments of quasi-cardiac arrest. It was intensely frustrating.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194134259" title="altos41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos41" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/16194134259_4cebb94658.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Look at that sweaty saddle. That's how tough the ride was.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192959250" title="altos42 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos42" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8650/16192959250_ab2f7f4786.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
And this is how bad sweat can destroy your Brooks saddle.<br />
<br />
Settling down at the camp spot felt heavenly though. It was nice to just relax and watch the sunset. The stars were so bright up there.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192958870" title="altos43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos43" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/16192958870_e583e03e5c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15760355123" title="altos44 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos44" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/15760355123_e0a3448b07.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379453712" title="altos45 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos45" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7314/16379453712_bdf4caf1de.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day seven. "Rest day, haha" Los Altos Del Lircay.</span></b><br />
Calling this a rest day is a joke. I simply wasn't on my bicycle. I set off on an 8 hour hike up to Enladrillado and La Laguna reaching heights of over 2,200 metres. It was one of the most satisfying hikes I have ever done - completely different to Volcán Villrrica.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757909964" title="altos46 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos46" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/15757909964_78d7b375aa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Peruvian Lily (Alstroemeria)<br />
<br />
Oh, the wildlife!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192721188" title="altos47 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos47" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/16192721188_b00afde18a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Don't know what this is, but I would like to find out.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378631031" title="altos48 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos48" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/16378631031_4849ab1863_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Black Green Tree Iguana (Liolaemus nigroviridis)<br />
<br />
These were everywhere, but they are very skittish. They range in the vibrancy of their colours.<br />
<br />
FINALLY!!!! I've been waiting to see one of these birds ever since I got to South America. It's the Magellanic Woodpecker (Campephilus Magellanicus). They are apparently pretty common, but somehow I hadn't been able to see a single one until I got to Altos Del Lircay. I could hear them pecking away in the morning as they looked for grubs behind the bark of the trees. Eventually I saw one flying past, but didn't get the opportunity to take a photo. Nonetheless I was just happy that I had seen it.<br />
<br />
Later I got the opportunity to snap one! Such a cool bird. It reminds me a lot of the Steller's Jay because of its bright color and it's "hairstyle".<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194128639" title="altos49 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos49" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7435/16194128639_ee9f18d7e7_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192953090" title="altos50 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos50" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8637/16192953090_0b425d3836_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379448462" title="altos51 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos51" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/16379448462_51beb30f13_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
The first couple of hours of hiking winds through forests up the side of the valley until eventually you get above the tree line.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380350125" title="altos52 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos52" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/16380350125_e87b9f49bb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380348835" title="altos53 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos53" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8594/16380348835_fd78c628f8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
As you reach the top of the first trail these black rock formations appear.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192713388" title="altos54 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos54" height="247" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/16192713388_c4937e1f7b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Looking back down the valley.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194123709" title="altos55 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos55" height="300" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8620/16194123709_2739aa432d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This is Enladrillado, a mountain top plateau which overlooks the Andes and the valley of Rio Claro. Just look at these views. It was very hard to find a good reason to leave this place.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378623951" title="altos56 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos56" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8619/16378623951_c89bbc25c6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380346135" title="altos57 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos57" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/16380346135_f6d65e39ca.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192946700" title="altos58 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos58" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8568/16192946700_caea77626b_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192711118" title="altos59 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos59" height="247" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7418/16192711118_c33807a5cb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378621911" title="altos60 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos60" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/16378621911_89f1d9710a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Looking back towards Enladrillado plateau.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380343515" title="altos61 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos61" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/16380343515_534701274b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378620141" title="altos62 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos62" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/16378620141_8171a9a9a6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194448787" title="altos63 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos63" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7308/16194448787_ca729fc3c6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15757894884" title="altos64 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos64" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/15757894884_d52ff27437.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I caught up with a herd of goats. They ran away. Such is life. I'm no Dr Doolittle.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378617831" title="altos65 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos65" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/16378617831_cb000592de.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379437512" title="altos66 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos66" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8591/16379437512_f088f44580.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16380339365" title="altos67 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos67" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8614/16380339365_12f605e8b2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
La Laguna. A popular place for camping. If I didn't have my bike and loads of panniers I would love to have camped here. The stars in the sky at night are amazing in this park, but the trees blocked the view in my campsite. At the Laguna nothing blocks the view.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378615731" title="altos68 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos68" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7320/16378615731_f5e963b0dc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The descent.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194113689" title="altos69 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos69" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/16194113689_3dba5c5739.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Heading back down to the treeline.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day eight. Altos Del Lircay to, err, a petrol station somewhere after Curicó. (137km)</span></b><br />
Waking up on day seven I could hardly move. The combination of the cycle up to Altos del Lircay and the 8 hour hike wiped me out. I would have stayed another day and rested, but I was eager to make that goal of reaching Santiago in ten days. I also had to respond to some couchsurfing requests for my arrival in Santiago, so I needed to get down to somewhere with wifi. I reluctantly packed up my stuff and got prepared to leave camp.<br />
<br />
I wanted to get to Curicó, but it would be a really long day, so I set off without a destination in mind. I could just go back to Talca and stay there. That would be an easy ride.<br />
<br />
The descent from Altos Del Lircay down to Vilches Baja took just one hour. It was about 19km, but I had to spend the whole time on the breaks, so my hands were in pain from gripping the entire way down. The first 2km at the top of the descent really sucked. The surface was erratic, slippery and it was hard to see the rocks because of the sunlight. At some points I had to push downhill just so I wouldn't lose control!<br />
<br />
I asked a bunch of different people about the best route to Curicó and I got several different answers. The winding country road would probably have been the most scenic route, but I had just had overdosed on mountains and nature, so I was happy to take the flat, duller, but more importantly, easier route. As my legs warmed up I flew back towards Talca. It is an ever so slight downhill as it follows a river valley, so I made fast progress. Soon I was on route 5 heading north towards Curicó.<br />
<br />
At the beginning of the day I could hardly stomach the idea of riding, but as the day went on I found my groove and got more and more excited about the cycle ahead. On this trip I have been able to see myself get stronger and the rides become easier. I love feeling the progression. It is 200 km, from Curicó to Santiago. Previously I thought this would be a two day ride. My change in mentality meant other plans were coming to the surface. The heat was ridiculous, but it really didn't bother me. There's a thermometer on my bicycle's speedometer and it read 43ºC, but as long as I was moving at a decent speed the breeze kept me feeling cool. It goes without saying that I drank a LOT of water.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192937660" title="altos71 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos71" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/16192937660_f01e158f23.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
"Screw Curicó! I just want to keep on riding."<br />
<br />
So I did. I just kept pedalling. It reminded me of a scene from the British TV series "Peep Show" where Super Hans (a drug addict) goes clean. He takes up exercise and decides to run to the local store, Londis, but ends up all the way in Windsor. When asked why he says "I didn't mean to, the endorphins kicked in and I couldn't stop!"<br />
<br />
Endorphins. Powerful stuff!<br />
<br />
I had no idea where I was going to sleep. In the end I just rolled up to a COPEC petrol station, stuffed my face with food, took a shower in the bathrooms (an aspect I love about these petrol stations) and pitched my tent on the grass behind the car park.<br />
<br />
So... two more days to Santiago. Sod that. I can do it in one day.Why the hell not, I'll have a bash at it.<br />
<br />
I actually didn't sleep well. Not because of noise, but because of excitement about trying to do this mammoth ride (for me it's mammoth anyway). I haven't got this worked up about soemthing since my skateboarding days.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15760335603" title="altos70 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos70" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/15760335603_f9c96573e6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My filthy legs and cyclists tan line pre shower.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day nine.....to Santiago (approximately 190km)</span></b><br />
7:40am I set off. The petrol station was at mile 187km on route 5, so in theory it would be about that far to get to Santiago. I was really hyped to try and ride this far. Riding 100 miles was a huge landmark for me, so this was even better. It would be the last day of riding on this leg of the trip before I take the bus up to Antofagasta to ride across the Atacama desert. There was nothing to lose and plenty of time to rest up in Santiago. I hoped to get there before 8pm. There was no rush however.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194111869" title="altos72 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos72" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/16194111869_247a20c453.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I had been told there was nothing to see as you approach Santiago but the mountains close in on you as get get further north. Despite just being a ride along a highway I thought the views were great.<br />
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I did see a lot of roadkill though. All of them were dogs. It's pretty horrendous to witness. One dog had just been torn apart and its entrails were strewn along the highway for at least twenty metres. It was undoubtedly one of the most gruesome things I have ever seen.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16378612981" title="altos73 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos73" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7417/16378612981_6f64c6c47c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After 22km of riding my front pannier just snapped off. I have no idea why. I just saw it dragging along on the floor.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194110659" title="altos74 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos74" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/16194110659_d957a2b8c2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I managed to jimmy rig it together so it would last the distance to Santiago.<br />
<br />
There was one other problem. My odometer stopped working. Somehow the pannier must have knocked the magnet off my spokes. It is an essential part of the device for measuring how far you travelled. So I had to estimate the distances travelled from here on. Fortunately there are markers on the highway every 100 metres on the central reservation.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194110099" title="altos75 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos75" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7332/16194110099_676bf69dc5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Sharing the shoulder.<br />
<br />
"Strolling down the highway. I'm gonna get there my way" (Bert Jansch)<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16354352896" title="altos76 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos76" height="300" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/16354352896_68116da032.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The day went surprisingly quickly. About 40km before Santiago signs start to appear saying that there is no cycling on the highway. That was news to me. I rode along on a parallel road until it stopped and there were no options. There was a bit of getting lost here, then I thought "fuck it" and rode along the highway regardless. I saw loads of other people doing it too. All right, I saw two other people doing it. But if they didn't care, neither did I.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16194439577" title="altos77 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos77" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/16194439577_6b3ec36bdd.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Navigating my way into Santiago was relatively easy, but not fun. It's not a great city for cycling. The traffic sucks, especially the collectivo taxis.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16192934150" title="altos78 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos78" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/16192934150_dd71200d3c_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16379401762" title="altos79 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="altos79" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8565/16379401762_f3ae5daa42.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
6:30pm. 190km done! Nice work! I stopped off at this bar on the cobbled streets of Paris and Londrés for a couple of pale ales. Never has a beer tasted so good!<br />
<br />
I set myself the goal of getting to Santiago in ten days, but I did it in nine. 900km over 7 days of cycling. I'm pretty chuffed! The thing that has really surprised me is just how quickly the last nine days have flown by.<br />
<br />
I'm going to spend probably about 4 days in Santiago resting up and getting my bike ready for the next phase of my trip. Santiago is certainly going to be the last place I can get decent equipment for some time. There is one street, San Diego, that has a stupid amount of bicycle shops, so I shouldn't have any trouble finding stuff.<br />
<br />
I'm going to stop typing and start relaxing!<br />
<br />
(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/02/santiago-off-bike.html" target="_blank">Santiago - off the bike</a>)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-84636771310410252332015-01-22T23:07:00.000+09:002015-01-28T21:18:35.283+09:00Villarrica Volcano.(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/altos-del-lircay-temuco-to-santiago.html" target="_blank">Altos Del Lircay - Temuco to Santiago</a>)<br />
<br />
After two days of relaxing in Puerto Varas we completed our circuit of Lago Lanquihue via Ensenada and Las Cascadas.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15720326023" title="villarrica01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica01" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7545/15720326023_ab3d058dae.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It was a short ride for me. I only rode 67km, but Vijay rode a lot further. "Why?" I hear you ask. Well, we got separated. I'll explain how.<br />
<br />
In the Lake District there are a lot of horseflies. If you're not familiar with them, they are giant flying beasts, sometimes bigger than bees and they LOVE to bite you. Personally I find them more of a nuisance. I haven't really noticed being bitten by them, but they really get on my nerves. As you ride they fly around you, constantly circling your head and trying to find a spot to land on. I felt like I was King Kong up the Empire State building being attacked by those planes.<br />
<br />
So I had an entire squadron of these horseflies in my wake, so I decided to try and outcycle them. A foolish idea. Those blighters are FAST! This created quite a bit of distance between Vijay and I. At some point I thought perhaps the horseflies were attracted to my purple Paperhaus t-shirt (see photo above), so I pulled up outside a roadside mart to swap it for my dark green long sleeve icebreaker. This took me a while as I had to dig deep into my panniers to find it. While I was doing this I saw Vijay ride past. He seemed to be going slowly and I assumed he was going to pull over at the bus stop a little further on to be in the shade.<br />
<br />
When I got back on my bike I couldn't see Vijay anywhere, he must have been way up ahead. We were a few kilometres away from Ensenada, the 50km of the journey. I hadn't eaten anything at this point and this would be the last town for nearly another 20km, so I was pretty keen to get some food. As I rode into Ensenada I kept my eye out for Vijay to see if he had stopped anywhere, but I couldn't see him, so I stopped to grab an empanada before going any further.<br />
<br />
I decided the best bet was to ride to the next town, Las Cascadas, where I could camp, get on the internet to send Vijay a message, and wait to see if he turned up. So that's exactly what I did. I found a nice little store and sank a few "schops" (draft beer). It was a local craft beer from Valdivia - "Kunstmann". It's pretty good stuff.<br />
<br />
A couple of hours later Vijay rolled up. He had no idea that he had overtaken me and he assumed that I had just ridden off into the distance. He was asking people if they had seen me, a few of which said yes, which is obviously not true, because I was behind him. He ended up taking a different road to Petrohue to see if I had gone up there. I think he must have ridden about 100km in total.<br />
<br />
I felt pretty bad for him. I was just sitting there, relaxing, drinking a beer, yet he was knackered having searched everywhere for me. A cold Kunstmann sorted him right out!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15717825944" title="villarrica02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica02" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/15717825944_af32693bb8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
One last view of Volcan Osorno.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152885860" title="villarrica03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica03" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/16152885860_373c87bd8f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Arcade games are really popular in Chile. Especially with older women.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pan American Highway (Ruta 5)</span></b><br />
<br />
After fixing my second broken spoke, we spent a night in Osorno (the town, not the volcano) then blasted up the highway about 94km to Los Lagos. A relatively dull but fast ride.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15717825764" title="villarrica04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica04" height="334" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8571/15717825764_8a51114c8b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Los Lagos</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15717825704" title="villarrica05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica05" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/15717825704_29c42ddbcf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Another picture perfect camp spot. No, it didn't rain!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16154367457" title="villarrica06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica06" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7551/16154367457_d33e00c668.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The campsite had an excellent swimming hole with a cliff to jump off.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16154367427" title="villarrica07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica07" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7487/16154367427_19c43138f2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There were horses all over the place. This fella even stopped by my tent for a drink.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16340245705" title="villarrica08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica08" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8618/16340245705_39f2b9418a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Lican Ray</span></b><br />
From Los Lagos to Lican Ray everything was perfect: sunshine, quiet roads, fresh tarmac, beautiful views.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15717825514" title="villarrica09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica09" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7479/15717825514_5645d72127.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16154367177" title="villarrica10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica10" height="334" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8562/16154367177_032be0494b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152666268" title="villarrica11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica11" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8577/16152666268_0c350eb421.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Riding into Lican Ray we got our first glimpse of Volcan Villarrica.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Hiking Volcan Villarrica</span></b><br />
I turned down the opportunity to climb Volcan Osorno at Lago Llanquihue because it was far too expensive. Just how expensive? £160!!! We met some people in Puerto Varas who had hiked up Volcan Villarrica and that cost them just £50 with a tour group. That pretty much triggered my decision to wait until Villarrica. The climbing is not technical, but the views are pretty unbelievable.<br />
<br />
Vijay didn't want to climb the Volcano as he is not interested in hiking, so he cycled on to the next town, Temuco, where I would meet up with him.<br />
<br />
I set off at 6am as the sun rose on the otherside of Lago Villarrica behind the volcano. It was nice to get a glimpse of what I was about to climb.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152666198" title="villarrica12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica12" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/16152666198_64056ba603.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16339378232" title="villarrica13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica13" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/16339378232_a9750a1792.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Volcan Villarrica - 2,847 metres high.<br />
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The beginning of the trek is up mostly gravel slopes until you reach the snowline. I think normally people would take the chair lift to that point, but it was out of order that day.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16339378202" title="villarrica14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica14" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7481/16339378202_f15234c0e4_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16314305216" title="villarrica15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica15" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/16314305216_3799741acb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16338494851" title="villarrica16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica16" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7561/16338494851_f5705a8760_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15720325503" title="villarrica17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica17" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8672/15720325503_306cd708eb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152666118" title="villarrica18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica18" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/16152666118_00a00711b9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
These are a few lads from my group. They were all Israelis. After doing military service most Israelis going travelling for an extended period of time. Wouldn't you want to? They follow a very strict route that very few deviate from. The only place I didn't see any Israelis was Puerto Varas. I wondered if that was because of its German heritage!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16154077399" title="villarrica19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica19" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/16154077399_77af10a073.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Atop Volcan Villarrica at the peak.<br />
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Looking into the eye of the beast.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152666068" title="villarrica20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica20" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7532/16152666068_00e8766193_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15717825294" title="villarrica21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica21" height="245" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7535/15717825294_e94ba0e1f6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152885200" title="villarrica22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica22" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7570/16152885200_e659de1340.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Looking over at Volcan Quetrupillan and Volcan Lanin. Argentina lies just beyond.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16314305056" title="villarrica23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica23" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7508/16314305056_7700bff2be.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Feeling pretty small up there.<br />
<br />
After four hours of hiking up this volcano the idea of hiking back down is not very appealing. Not to worry, because you don't have to! We strapped on some special trousers that acted like a sled and we slid all the way down on our butts using our ice axes as brakes. It was so much fun! On the way up you are always watching your step and occasionally checking out the view. On the way down you spend the entire time smiling, zooming down the mountain at mach ten, all the while looking out over the view. It was the best end to a fantastic day trip.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Temuco</span></b><br />
The next day I shot down to Temuco to meet up with Vijay. It was a flat 80km and only took about 4 hours to ride.<br />
<br />
We discussed our plans which have become different in many ways. Personally, having skipped out the Carreterra Austral, I have found the cycling to be a little too easy and want to set myself some goals to make it more interesting. Also, when I get to Santiago I would like to head north on the bus so I can ride in the Atacama desert and get to Bolivia as quickly as possible. In Bolivia it will be mountainous, MUCH cheaper (which is a huge bonus), plus the roads will be dirt and more challenging to ride. Chile is a huge country and I don't want to spend all my money here then not be able to see Bolivia, Peru and possibly Ecuador.<br />
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We agreed to go our separate ways, so we spent our last evening in Temuco having a few drinks, starting at MADCHESTER! It's an amusing British themed bar. They asked us for song requests, so we pooled together our knowledge of clicheed tracks from the nineties and eighties. Britain represent! Hahaha. It's really funny to see what other people's ideas of your country are.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152885140" title="villarrica24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica24" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8585/16152885140_612ceec89f_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16154366927" title="villarrica25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="villarrica25" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7555/16154366927_637f7fbc30.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Cyclist tan lines. Adieu. See you in England Vijay. Safe travels!<br />
<br />
(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/altos-del-lircay-temuco-to-santiago.html" target="_blank">Altos Del Lircay - Temuco to Santiago</a>)<br />
<div>
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-25948684855871989942015-01-10T00:25:00.002+09:002015-01-28T21:01:29.649+09:00Bariloche to Puerto Varas - Another Andean crossing.(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/villarrica-volcano.html" target="_blank">Villarrico Volcano</a>)<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Bariloche</span></b><br />
After a 29 hour coach ride on New Year's Eve we finally made it to Bariloche. The guilt of skipping out a whole section of southern Patagonia quickly dissipated and you'll soon see why. The Lake District in northern Patagonia is so gorgeous it hurts.<br />
<br />
We checked into a hostel called "Penthouse 1004". It sounds dodgy, right? At first we thought it looked a bit dubious. It's on the 10th floor of an ugly looking apartment block and you have to walk down a long corridor before you get to the entrance. On entry any doubts as to the respectability are quickly replaced with a knockout vista from the dining area and balcony. Behold...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236060811" title="bariPV01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV01" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7507/16236060811_40c2f70e96.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16212020376" title="bariPV02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV02" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/16212020376_6f6172d367.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The hostel was also modestly priced, so I would highly recommend it.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Circuito Chico</span></b><br />
A lot of people hire bicycles and do a lap of the circuito chico by Llao Llao village. Obviously we had our own bikes, so we cycled out there first before doing the circuit. It was 60km in total and we were blessed with glorious sunshine.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16051794839" title="bariPV03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV03" height="360" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7545/16051794839_c0f53fd098.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16051794769" title="bariPV04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV04" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7543/16051794769_fa389b1e46.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Punta panaromico<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15618050033" title="bariPV05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV05" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8626/15618050033_80aa0d74d3_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236060551" title="bariPV06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV06" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7482/16236060551_9a04348101_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Lago Escondido<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050392498" title="bariPV07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV07" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7461/16050392498_02d151b5f5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b>SCUM! (Salon Cultural de Usos Multiples)</b><br />
I love it when acronyms go wrong.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050527090" title="bariPV08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV08" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/16050527090_4ae2b536a2_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050392378" title="bariPV09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV09" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8596/16050392378_0744db2dd0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Taste explosion! Churrasco sandwich drenched in chimichurri sauce!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Cerro Otto</span></b><br />
Two Aussies, Lochie and Steve recommend taking the bike for a spin up Cerro Otto. It's a 1,405 metre mountain overlooking Bariloche and Lago Nahuel Huapi. The climb to the top is around 700 metres on a shitty gravel road. Actually, make that a rubble road. The trip up took around 90 mins and is pretty exhausting as you could imagine. You might think the downhill ride would be fun, but it felt much like operating a pneumatic drill and left my arms aching like crazy. It was worth every bit of discomfort. Check out the views...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16052066357" title="bariPV10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV10" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/16052066357_1d24b53a3c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050526860" title="bariPV11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV11" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7531/16050526860_a2bc17009f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Cable cars are for pussies!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050526790" title="bariPV12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV12" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7487/16050526790_983ca8e196_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050526690" title="bariPV13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV13" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7484/16050526690_4231e63c8e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16052066097" title="bariPV14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV14" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/16052066097_97e7778a96_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Riding to Villa La Angostura (87 km)</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16051794039" title="bariPV15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV15" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8600/16051794039_df7c9acf1b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16212019516" title="bariPV16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV16" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8617/16212019516_1ffaa6c06f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15618049193" title="bariPV17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV17" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7583/15618049193_a9320945c4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15618049133" title="bariPV18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV18" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7537/15618049133_28e755b248.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236059771" title="bariPV19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV19" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/16236059771_9be9ed0b46.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
From our hostel we saw some forest fires blazing for a couple of days on the other side of the lake. We past some fire trucks en route to Villa la Angostura that were dealing with the remnants of the inferno. Not much to spot, just a few smouldering bushes.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237907775" title="bariPV20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV20" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/16237907775_357c4da90c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16052065577" title="bariPV21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV21" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/16052065577_3f20f1f567.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050526290" title="bariPV22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV22" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7493/16050526290_b3a1d78136.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Angostura to Playa Puyehue (90km)</span></b><br />
Time for our second Andean crossing (the first being Garibaldi pass in Tierra Del Fuego). Paso Cardenal Samore is 1,314 metres high, definitely the highest pass I have ever crossed. Despite being a tough climb, I found it an incredibly enjoyable ride. Tough on the legs, but easy on the eyes.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237086932" title="bariPV23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV23" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7521/16237086932_02ef256a8e_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16051793439" title="bariPV24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV24" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8630/16051793439_628bae1ebe_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15618048533" title="bariPV25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV25" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8592/15618048533_527eeac5fd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236059621" title="bariPV26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV26" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8587/16236059621_29a11cd03d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237086592" title="bariPV27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV27" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8588/16237086592_e7119c7b9d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236059061" title="bariPV28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV28" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8644/16236059061_4a258054e2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Fresh water straight from the mountain streams. Time to fill up the water bottles.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16052064847" title="bariPV29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV29" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/16052064847_bcc35151a4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15615489634" title="bariPV33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV33" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7531/15615489634_0199f253eb_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Cerro Pantojo - volcanorama galore coming up!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050524990" title="bariPV34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV34" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/16050524990_27ec66931b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Gotta keep on keeping on.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237085692" title="bariPV35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV35" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16237085692_8a66d01a8c_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Almost there Vijay!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236058841" title="bariPV30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV30" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8651/16236058841_5a37737843.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
At the border. Argentina crying "I'm more pious than you are!"<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050390668" title="bariPV31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV31" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/16050390668_c15a8d815f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
At the top of the pass we made it to Chile. Let the 45 km descent begin. Everything suddenly gets a whole lot lusher and green.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15615489764" title="bariPV32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV32" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7477/15615489764_624d4385e1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Volcan Puyehue<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16052064417" title="bariPV36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV36" height="234" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7556/16052064417_1b77a84f26.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237906365" title="bariPV37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV37" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/16237906365_2fc2ca3fe5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15615489304" title="bariPV38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV38" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7491/15615489304_0bbc949094_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237906245" title="bariPV39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV39" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8637/16237906245_e82cfb3703.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We pulled up at Playa Puyehue campsite.<br />
"Could this be.... the most beautiful pitch in the world?" (think Prince)<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236058091" title="bariPV40 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV40" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7479/16236058091_7efc72c048.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16052063877" title="bariPV41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV41" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/16052063877_776d29f4b4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Playa Puyehue to Puerto Octay (90km)</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050389768" title="bariPV42 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV42" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8577/16050389768_f5433c3e3c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
First stop Entre Lagos for some damn fine cazuela.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16212016876" title="bariPV43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV43" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7461/16212016876_89478bc263.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Wait a minute? Who teleported me to the English countryside?<br />
The landscape constantly changes here.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15615488674" title="bariPV44 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV44" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/15615488674_a52f64eb15.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15615488524" title="bariPV45 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV45" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/15615488524_3540673a78.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Wait a minute, who teleported me to Japan?<br />
Volcan Osorno constantly looms over the countryside.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16236057551" title="bariPV46 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV46" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7478/16236057551_6deeb4ed40.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
More volcano action.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16237905235" title="bariPV47 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV47" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/16237905235_9415245114_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Rolling into Puerto Octay. It's a working class town with lots of drunk men stumbling around. It had some character. Some of the local shops reminded me of the TV show "Open all hours". Timeless.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15618046223" title="bariPV48 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV48" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/15618046223_938e109bde.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
These buggers made a right racket in the campground. They were fascinating to watch though.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Puerto Octay to Puerto Varas (57km)</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16212016466" title="bariPV49 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV49" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7484/16212016466_ceb794287c_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
It was cloudy as we set off, but after about 30 mins Volcan Osorno emerged through the clouds. I have a strong desire to climb this mountain, but it is mighty expensive. Mount Taranaki in New Zealand is almost identical in all aspects but without the cost.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Vultures...</b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15615488174" title="bariPV50 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV50" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7564/15615488174_17a09b843b_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15618046093" title="bariPV51 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV51" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/15618046093_0440f9ed1e_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
There were dozens of vultures just chilling on this rooftop. They had just polished off some roadkill.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>BROKEN SPOKE!!!</b><br />
As we approached Frutillar I could hear some kind of rattling, but I couldn't tell what it was. Just before we got onto the Pan-American highway (ruta 5) I spotted that I had a broken spoke on the rear wheel. Unfortunately I couldn't change it myself as it was on the sprocket side of the wheel and I don't carry a chain whip with me. I was tempted to press on until Puerto Varas and get it fixed there, but Vijay convinced me to seek out a bicycle mechanic instead. I'm glad I listened to him. 10 minutes later we found this moustachioed maestro.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16051790759" title="bariPV52 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV52" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7564/16051790759_1fce693454_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16050388928" title="bariPV53 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV53" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7521/16050388928_4edb09e4df_z.jpg" width="488" /></a><br />
The repair only cost me £2. Bargain. Ride on!<br />
<br />
We left Frutillar and got onto Ruta 5. It is technically a motorway, but to the British we would call it a dual carriageway. Bicycles are allowed on it and it isn't half as bad as we had anticipated. There is a massive shoulder and not that much traffic. Of course trucks are whizzing by but they leave so much room it simply isn't a problem. The highway isn't very interesting but you can cover a lot of ground very quickly. The other route we could have taken would have been much longer and hillier.<br />
<br />
<br />
Puerto Varas is a pretty little town albeit a little touristy. The views here are fantastic though and I have enjoyed relaxing here and eating plenty. Everything here is built in German style. We took a stroll through suburbia to see what the neighbourhoods are like.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16059428708" title="PV3 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV3" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7517/16059428708_f198c125fd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16060832529" title="PV4 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV4" height="300" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7536/16060832529_a5f8c33a4c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
These houses are blessed with this view...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16059577990" title="PV5 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV5" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7507/16059577990_d9cbac4db0.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16059577750" title="PV6 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV6" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7532/16059577750_fbf59218e9_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
The church is very picturesque, but on closer inspection is is made from corrugated metal.<br />
<br />
One of my favourite things about Puerto Varas is the food trucks down by the water front. It isn't exactly cheap street food, but it is mouthwateringly good. I've been filling up on ceviche, empanadas, ceviche, burritos, ceviche, hot dogs, ceviche and you guessed it, more ceviche. I can't get enough of the stuff!!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15624550894" title="PV2 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV2" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/15624550894_1290bd1009.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16212016116" title="bariPV54 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bariPV54" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/16212016116_7b304d0f8f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Ceviche!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16246130132" title="PV1 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV1" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8623/16246130132_2a0f2e1c3f_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Cerdo chacarero<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16246129002" title="PV7 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV7" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/16246129002_6243ce5bfa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Chester Beer. The local craft brew.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16245112911" title="PV9 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV9" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/16245112911_21db3646ca_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
The stray dogs here are pretty chilled out.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15624549254" title="PV8 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="PV8" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/15624549254_d4d39fdc71.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<br />
I'll leave you with this image. You can always count on a bit of filth to break down language barriers. Great drawing Fanny!<br />
<br />
(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/villarrica-volcano.html" target="_blank">Villarrico Volcano</a>)Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-18014955885186138772014-12-31T13:35:00.000+09:002015-01-10T06:03:35.153+09:00Torres Del Paine & Perito Moreno Glacier<span style="color: orange;">(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/bariloche-to-puerto-varas-another.html" target="_blank">Bariloche to Puerto Varas</a>)</span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK</span></b><br />
<br />
"Do not ask about the weather. We are in Patagonia. We don't know."<br />
<br />
I couldn't think of anything more suitable to say.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965365088" title="torresperito01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito01" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7507/15965365088_931a6b68db.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We've decided to put cycling on hold until further north when we get to the Lake District, but in the meantime we hit up a couple of National Parks en route north. Patagonia is gorgeous when you're by the Andes, but in the plains there is little to see and the boredom becomes more than a little overbearing. It's a little like watching paint dry while running on a treadmill. But when you hit the mountains...OH MY!<br />
<br />
In Puerto Natales we visited Torres Del Paine National Park for some hiking. I didn't spend nearly enough time here and certainly intend to return one day explicitly to go hiking and camping.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152041732" title="torresperito02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito02" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8573/16152041732_39a9f1b97a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The horses are loaded with wine. They're not drunk on wine, they're just delivering it to one of the lower camps. Thanks guys! Of course I bought a 1 litre carton for the end of the day.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16150892081" title="torresperito03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito03" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/16150892081_7a48b2d397.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15966724449" title="torresperito04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito04" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/15966724449_0a931e51f5_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15533056403" title="torresperito05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito05" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7464/15533056403_c51ac6fa41.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Patagonia Pea (Lathyrus Nervosus)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16150884661" title="torresperito06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito06" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/16150884661_3e0df041e5_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965346738" title="torresperito07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito07" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/15965346738_ec4bb05c33.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Campamento de Las Torres.<br />
My Hilleberg Nallo 2 is back in action after some repairals. I do love this tent despite its flaws.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152787395" title="torresperito08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito08" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8568/16152787395_c0049f472f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152019262" title="torresperito09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito09" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8618/16152019262_c121ab5014.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965462110" title="torresperito10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito10" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/15965462110_c49f6b3aa3_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15530434824" title="torresperito11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito11" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7537/15530434824_faf9f65670.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Mirador de las Torres. This place was heaving with throngs of back packers. I have no idea how nobody is in this shot. I decided that I would come back again for sunrise at 4am.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16150860491" title="torresperito12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito12" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8626/16150860491_5a36a93788.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It's not a selfie. I'm just photobombing my own photo of nature.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15966695309" title="torresperito13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito13" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/15966695309_e800e2068c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15533026103" title="torresperito14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito14" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7487/15533026103_bb201730f1.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16126970436" title="torresperito15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito15" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8574/16126970436_b6f4b77770_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16150848571" title="torresperito16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito16" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7507/16150848571_dc9cbd8dba_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16151993242" title="torresperito17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito17" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7512/16151993242_535ede9cef_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
I got up at 3:30am to hike up to Mirador de las Torres to see the sunrise. It was far too cloudy to see the main towers, but it was wonderful to be up there all alone for sometime. Quite a few hikers turned up about 45 minutes after myself, but there wasn't much to see so I headed down. It was a great decision as I got a spectacular view of the sunlight of the first peak. It was a burning orange.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15966677159" title="torresperito19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito19" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/15966677159_8221c8e012_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15533012053" title="torresperito18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito18" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7505/15533012053_4673dd169d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15530409344" title="torresperito20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito20" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7489/15530409344_d71eecd94a_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
A little zoom in on some of the backpackers who hike up with their sleeping bags to stay warm.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15530407084" title="torresperito21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito21" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8651/15530407084_447e6961c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The sun peaking up the valley.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15533003993" title="torresperito22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito22" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7515/15533003993_095c701edc_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Twisted tree carcass.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152745685" title="torresperito23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito23" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7504/16152745685_44e21ffb73_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Mountain top glaciars.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15530400594" title="torresperito24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito24" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8614/15530400594_7a5f7384aa.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16151978122" title="torresperito25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito25" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7489/16151978122_2f4d406bd3_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Patagonian Sierra Finch<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15966665099" title="torresperito26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito26" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7583/15966665099_41cb2efc5b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Southern Lapwing<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16151975322" title="torresperito27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito27" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8620/16151975322_bf410eacb3_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Rufuos-collared sparrow<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965290648" title="torresperito28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito28" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/15965290648_35d010b8e5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965419480" title="torresperito29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito29" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7480/15965419480_23ee032391.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965288328" title="torresperito30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito30" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7552/15965288328_83bdc6c1d7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16151970782" title="torresperito31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito31" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7469/16151970782_fc90bb2d00.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Leaving the park the clouds cleared giving us a clear shot of Las Torres.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16126940986" title="torresperito32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito32" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/16126940986_f2bcd6caeb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965285378" title="torresperito33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito33" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8594/15965285378_88d52eb4e7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15530390454" title="torresperito34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito34" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/15530390454_a9f241a445.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152732375" title="torresperito35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito35" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8654/16152732375_b35d1ccdf6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965411530" title="torresperito36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito36" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8655/15965411530_04beaba7b0.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15966650969" title="torresperito37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito37" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7480/15966650969_041874376b_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">PERITO MORENO GLACIAR</span></b><br />
No hiking here. Just a little boat ride and a stroll around some viewing platforms to gaze at an unbelievably gigantic glacier. I think they said that it stands around 75 metres high and is around 5km wide at its terminus. I might as well have had my eyeballs massaged. A lazy day with a lot of pleasure.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15966961777" title="torresperito38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito38" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7479/15966961777_1018373e67.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15532981973" title="torresperito39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito39" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7481/15532981973_c37f0f1189_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16152725245" title="torresperito40 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito40" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7564/16152725245_3b94edced8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15530381454" title="torresperito41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito41" height="321" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7494/15530381454_5675562cdd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15965274768" title="torresperito42 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito42" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7529/15965274768_2bec5aa7e9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15532977293" title="torresperito43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito43" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8627/15532977293_29060d8e87.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15532976523" title="torresperito44 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito44" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7464/15532976523_e6f93f592c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16151954432" title="torresperito45 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="torresperito45" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/16151954432_692b6a40b9_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
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<span style="color: orange;">(next page: </span><a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2015/01/bariloche-to-puerto-varas-another.html" target="_blank">Bariloche to Puerto Varas</a><span style="color: orange;">)</span>Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-59940828921420249152014-12-25T09:39:00.003+09:002015-01-10T06:02:23.560+09:00Escaping Tierra Del Fuego. Rio Grande to Punta Arenas<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="color: orange;">(next page: </span><a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/12/torres-del-paine-perito-moreno-glacier.html" target="_blank">Torres del Paine and Perito Moreno Glacier</a><span style="color: orange;">)</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">We spent two days in Rio Grande at the
Hostel Argentino, because we had got so battered by the winds the day before.
We hoped that during these days the winds might have calmed down a little bit
so we could set off towards San Sebastian without getting a royal beatdown from
the elements.</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475481613" title="01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="01" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7491/15475481613_209db1db9a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Vijay spoke to a 78 year old, retired
bicycle mechanic named Oscar who advised us that the winds are not so strong in
the early hours of the morning, so we set off at 6am along the coastal roads
out of town. Oscar wasn’t wrong. For two hours we headed north with very little
trouble. Soon enough the winds started to pick up and by 10 am they were back
to full force and we ground down to a halt again. To cut a long story short, it
took us over eleven hours to ride for 80km. it was horrendous. We had to stop
and take breaks so frequently. It felt like climbing a mountain pass all day
long, except with zero reward. The worst thing was that the landscape was so
dull. The whole east coast of Tierra Del Fuego is just a huge flat expanse with
no trees, so you can’t even see any evidence of the wind. I can't really convey how bleak the place is. The photos don't do any justice to the landscape and its utter nothingness. The monotony was
severe that I had to listen to some music just to maintain some sanity. I even
preferred to ride behind Vijay just so I could watch his wheels spinning for
some entertainment and see the patterns of the road emerging from underneath
his panniers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909067359" title="02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="02" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/15909067359_d325b3b3fe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A creepy seaside Jesus.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15907722538" title="03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="03" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7517/15907722538_efab4132ed.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This cliff was the most interesting natural feature we saw all day. After this it was mostly...flat.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475466633" title="04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="04" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8570/15475466633_59d690481f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The high point of the day.<br />
Sorry, I mean this was literally the highest point on the road for the day.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16069353746" title="05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="05" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/16069353746_54c2f38e7f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475455403" title="06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="06" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/15475455403_9a09ffd008.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A pile of trash. We had a cup of tea here. Exciting!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16069340496" title="07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="07" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/16069340496_eb03928b1d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
One of many roadside leg breaks.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909366637" title="08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="08" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7552/15909366637_1b596242c0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Finally we can see San Sebastian!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15907832110" title="09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="09" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8600/15907832110_f1b70241a8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This is it?<br />
<br />
When we arrived in San Sebastian (Argentina - there is a San Sebastian 14km west at the Chilean checkpoint), there was nothing but a hotel and a gas station with no shop. We walked in to inquire about the cost of the hotel rooms and instantly got sucked into a conversation with a seemingly friendly but drunk Argentinian man wearing a trucker's cap with the Sun of May (Argentinian flag) on it. He grabbed my hand and embraced me and wouldn't let go. It was a little bit awkward in the first place, but then things got weird. He asked us where we were from, so we said England. His instant response was to tell us that his brother had been killed in the Falklands war. <b>Nice to meet you too!</b><br />
<br />
The hotel cost $50 USD, so we declined and headed over to the Argentinian border control. They offered us a place to sleep in the waiting room, which we were delighted with. It was warm, had a little kitchen, but best of all was free!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472801124" title="10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="10" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8656/15472801124_fe3a653522.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15907827210" title="11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="11" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7554/15907827210_b08ed3f083.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My bed for the night.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">CHILE. Disaster strikes!</span></b><br />
<br />
We had a late start in the morning, had our breakfast and got our exit stamps from the Argentinian border control. From there it was a 14km cycle along dirt roads to the Chilean checkpoint. It was a slow ride, taking us about one and a half hours, which felt like pretty good progress after the day before.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909021229" title="13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="13" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7553/15909021229_b06abb77ba.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16094387722" title="14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="14" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7514/16094387722_82743c54b3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The bleakness continues.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472781194" title="15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="15" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7512/15472781194_de2410bd61.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Believe it or not, this cattle grid and fence is the actual demarcation line between Chile and Argentina. Having lived in South Korea for many years I have visited the DMZ a couple of times. It is so heavily fortified that it seems bizarre to see such a flimsy and porous border like this one in Patagonia.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909332777" title="16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="16" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8563/15909332777_2540fb5af8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
CHILE!!! Awooga!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15907785300" title="17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="17" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8587/15907785300_7628e5ff3f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The bleakness continues. The road from San Sebastian to Porvenir is all dirt roads. We headed west directly into a headwind that just got stronger and stronger. After 8km of constant battling against the sheer ferocity of these winds coming across from the Straits of Magellan we decided to change tactics. It was time to hitch hike. It was completely unsuccessful of course. When any vehicle came past us they would respond to our hitch hiking thumb gesture with a reciprocal thumb gesture of support and enthusiasm. Thanks a bunch guys!<br />
<br />
After some time we tried to ride a little bit further, but our efforts were so futile we decided we might as well just camp it out there and set off really early the next morning. I decided it was time to put my tent to the test. I recently purchased a Hilleberg Nallo 2 as they are supposed to be incredibly tough and come with a lifetime warranty. So I got to work pitching the tent. All was going well until I was inserting the second pole. The first pole was in position perfectly, then it just bent under the force of the wind. Then the pole snapped clean in two and ripped a hole through the fabric of the tent.<br />
<br />
Fuck.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15478465313" title="punta14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta14" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/15478465313_9f6c465cc5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My pole. Snapped clean in two. In Patagonia, nothing is indestructable.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15912050459" title="punta15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta15" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15912050459_9f82d140e8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
This was a pivotal moment for me. If the Hilleberg couldn't hack it, neither could I. We talked about just bivvying and setting off in the morning, but there was no guarantee that the weather would get any better. In the end we turned around and road back to the Chilean border control. With the wind on our backs we flew down the dirt road at 22 km/h without even pedalling. I was all over the place. We got back there so quickly. We inquired about getting lifts and in the end we paid a local in the restaurant to drive us to Porvenir. It was around 150km and took us about two hours to get there. It was not cheap and I don't care to reveal how much it cost!<br />
<br />
It was best decision as there was nothing around for miles - no shelter at all and no streams for water. There were a few estancias further west, but nothing substantial. Despite there being a decent amount of traffic on the road, the area is one of the most remote and unpopulated places I have ever been.<br />
<br />
As you get closer to Porvenir the landscape starts to change. The flatness turns into gently rolling hills. Suddenly there is some shrubbery and some flowers. You start to see Guanacos all over the place and in the road. The coastal road is gorgeous around there.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475381403" title="18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="18" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7583/15475381403_fa16259f3d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Our bikes loaded up in the back of a pick up truck.<br />
<br />
It felt amazing to pull up into Porvenir and get the bikes off the pick up truck. The town is really colourful and looked gorgeous as the sun finally showed its face after hiding away for so long. No more battling headwinds.<br />
<br />
The first few days of riding from Ushuaia were so amazing. I knew we would have to battle winds at some point, but I was not expecting it to happen so early in the trip and certainly wasn't expecting it to be so relentless. We have decided that we will take the bus from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales, where the landscape will be much more interesting. Vijay and I never set ourselves any goals for this trip and we have no desired to inflict misery on ourselves, so we're quite happy to skip the boring sections. Winds are bad enough, but when coupled with such a monotonous and boring landscape you wonder why you are doing it. You can't even stop to admire the view, because the view never changes.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Porvenir</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909303857" title="19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="19" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/15909303857_05faacb335.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472742614" title="20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="20" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7510/15472742614_9cb95090bb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15908964449" title="21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="21" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/15908964449_130a05f7f3_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
So, we rocked up to a hostel which seemed empty apart from ourselves until somebody emerged from there room having heard our voices. It was non other than Benjamin, the crazy Austrian we met in Tierra Del Fuego. He had set off a day or so after us and had cycled with zero rest days the whole way. We thought we had had a hard time on the road until we chatted to Benny. Being a masochistic glutton for punishment, he pushed himself through the pain barrier all the way. I would hate to be in his knees, because they don't look good right now! It was such a coincidence that we ended up in the same town on the same day, in the same hostel, in rooms facing each other. Benjamin is a very unique guy. When he was twenty he broke three vertebrae while downhill biking in the States. He checked himself out of the hospital because he was worried about the medical costs! He certainly feeds off the suffering. You should check out his blog <a href="http://www.bennybananas.com/" target="_blank">Benny Bananas</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475364253" title="22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="22" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/15475364253_ed6150a6a6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Christmas decorations Chilean style.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15907754800" title="23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="23" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7526/15907754800_d0c4cfc768.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16093117681" title="24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="24" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/16093117681_2d63b5bc2f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475353713" title="25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="25" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7488/15475353713_902a240f95.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Dirt cheap wine. About £2 for 1.5 litres!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16094317712" title="26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="26" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/16094317712_dde54f2fa4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472707784" title="27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="27" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/15472707784_79f4707a53.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Benjamin's ghetto rig. Proof that you don't need expensive equipment to do a cycling trip. His panniers are made from plastic boxes and inner tubes.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909262787" title="28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="28" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7508/15909262787_62013a3a8d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16093093701" title="29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="29" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/16093093701_4d43a920af.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16093087451" title="30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="30" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7582/16093087451_fefb088870.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472687934" title="31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="31" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8619/15472687934_795d12b089.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15908906299" title="33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="33" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/15908906299_35e365c87b_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472675024" title="34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="34" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7486/15472675024_5869c0f4b2_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Whale bones.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16094974935" title="35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="35" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7480/16094974935_3a68e919cf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I don't what the hell this thing is. Half lion, half dog by the looks of it.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475291553" title="36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="36" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/15475291553_aab67992db.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16069174476" title="37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="37" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/16069174476_ac294cb1fe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16094149722" title="38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="38" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8620/16094149722_d598f047be.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Taking the ferry from Porvenir to Punta Arenas across the Strait of Magellan. It cost about £6 and took 3 hours.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472535294" title="39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="39" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7507/15472535294_1c5cab2034.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15472507114" title="41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="41" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15472507114_fd3c6d43d4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Moments after this photos was taken a huge waved broke against the hull of the boat and I got completely drenched in freezing sea water.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16092884201" title="43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="43" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/16092884201_a7da7c8b14.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Ford Granada! I'm loving the old cars in South America.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909051657" title="45 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="45" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/15909051657_8107e55f0f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Merry Christmas everyone from Vijay and Alasdair!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15909050177" title="46 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="46" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7506/15909050177_dbc782b2a2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It was Benny's 24th birthday, so we got the beers in and stayed up late drinking in the hostel.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15908714109" title="47 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="47" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8626/15908714109_b3da652228.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Lennon, the resident dog at "backpacker's paradise" hostel. He is obsessed with balloons. He couldn't be separated from this one. The hostel was really cheap, about £7 a night.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16094088672" title="48 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="48" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/16094088672_5acffc6380.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Drinking with Oscar.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16096256761" title="punta01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta01" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16096256761_f9c5318b7b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Just chilling with my boy, Lennon.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">PUNTA ARENAS</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15912079279" title="punta02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta02" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7469/15912079279_5f0e42bc3d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Magellan<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15912410587" title="punta04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta04" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/15912410587_4568f627ea.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Funky afro trees.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16097437372" title="punta05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta05" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/16097437372_e0aed3cfd4_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16097433712" title="punta06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta06" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/16097433712_a417774e83.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15912402597" title="punta07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta07" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/15912402597_c70f50da5c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16097428692" title="punta08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta08" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7504/16097428692_d7e59260e8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16098149665" title="punta09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta09" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7532/16098149665_b8857a6e46.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
FLOWERS! It finally feels like summer. "Summer" in Patagonia really means "not winter"<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15912395357" title="punta10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta10" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7480/15912395357_5a33568c2b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Splendid haircuts.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15478471273" title="punta11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta11" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7554/15478471273_02656753b1_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
The Union Jack is official hobo gear in Punta Arenas.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16072359636" title="punta12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta12" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/16072359636_2b6fe0cf18_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15475832954" title="punta13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta13" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8597/15475832954_6c25a4308c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15912383027" title="punta16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta16" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8563/15912383027_568f33ceb1.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16098132035" title="punta17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="punta17" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7478/16098132035_e04a99dd0b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
That's all for now. I have contacted Hilleberg and they replied quickly. They may be able to ship a new tent to me, but I won't know for sure until after Christmas. I am going to try and repair the poles, otherwise I will have to buy a new tent for now.<br />
<br />
Oh! I forgot to say, Chile is amazing! I love it here.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;">(next page: </span><a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/12/torres-del-paine-perito-moreno-glacier.html" target="_blank">Torres del Paine and Perito Moreno Glacier</a><span style="color: orange;">)</span>Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-51722092849387856162014-12-20T05:11:00.003+09:002015-01-10T06:05:32.486+09:00Tierra Del Fuego. Cycling North from Ushuaia to Rio Grande<span style="color: orange;">(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/12/escaping-tierra-del-fuego-rio-grande-to.html" target="_blank">Escape from Tierra Del Fuego. Rio Grande to Punta Arenas</a>)</span><br />
<br />
We've been in Patagonia for about a week now. I've lost complete track of time and have no idea what day it is. Oh, it's Friday! Everything is a bit of a blur, so I'll try and summarise it relatively quickly.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057901115" title="tierradelfuego01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego01" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/16057901115_f5126cd91b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We flew on the 4:45am flight from Buenos Aires, so we arrived in Ushaia very early. LAN didn't charge us anything to take out bicycle on the flight. It came within our baggage allowance (of 2x 20kg pieces). So if you want to fly with your bike from Buenos Aires, don't fly Aerolineas Argentinas, fly LAN instead. So it cost me €90 in total to transport my bike from London to Ushuaia. I'm pretty pleased with that price!<br />
<br />
We set up our bikes in the airport, which took several hours. I discovered that Ortlieb handle bar bag mounts are only good to be used once, so I can't use mine unless I can find a quick klick mount, which I have been assured is impossible in Argentina. With that in mind, I have reverted to a trusty bum bag (fanny pack) for my camera and petty cash. Looking cool! Haha.<br />
<br />
Buenos Aires was hot. Patagonia doesn't seem to know what is going on. We landed in frightfully windy weather. The short ride from the airport to the centre took a while and it involved a lot of leaning sideways into the wind, yet the next day we had the most gorgeous hot weather.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438239033" title="tierradelfuego02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego02" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/15438239033_2f77bf20bf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A memorial to Las Malvinas (The Falkland Islands). It's definitely not something to joke about with Argentinians. There is a strong naval presence down here and everywhere you look there are references to Las Malvinas. It's an incredibly nationalistic neck of the woods.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438238823" title="tierradelfuego03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego03" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/15438238823_a23eaa3c5e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Some typical ramshackle wooden housing in Ushuaia.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16055940181" title="tierradelfuego04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego04" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/16055940181_4bd6f2131b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438238553" title="tierradelfuego05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego05" height="298" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7576/15438238553_56db023784.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438238463" title="tierradelfuego06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego06" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/15438238463_4700c11a58.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Shipwreck<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032113366" title="tierradelfuego07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego07" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/16032113366_6c06cc06d9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A frightfully creepy window display in Ushuaia.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tierra Del Fuego National Park</span></b><br />
We headed into Tierra Del Fuego National Park to test out our camping equipment. I had used most of my stuff while <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/11/notts-to-scots-prelude-to-patagonia.html" target="_blank">riding up to Scotland</a> the month before, but Vijay's tent needed to be put to the test. The weather was phenomenal! No winds, bright blue skies and very warm. It's not so bad down here after all.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15870614520" title="tierradelfuego08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego08" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7481/15870614520_4c7e7015d2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871829209" title="tierradelfuego09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego09" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/15871829209_dcf5764601.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438237593" title="tierradelfuego10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego10" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7483/15438237593_025fe5a445.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Our camp spot in the park.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438237353" title="tierradelfuego11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego11" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8644/15438237353_2923d98430.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032112046" title="tierradelfuego12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego12" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7568/16032112046_16d1afc13e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032111866" title="tierradelfuego13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego13" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7495/16032111866_8d41cf748b_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
These little orchids were growing everywhere. I think they are called dog orchids.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871828429" title="tierradelfuego14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego14" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7572/15871828429_bf811a3ce2_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
This is our Austrian friend, Benjamin. He is also cycling north, but is heading off a few days after us. No doubt he will catch up with us, as we are planning to take it pretty slowly at first.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871828269" title="tierradelfuego15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego15" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8568/15871828269_4a482d1b8f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Testing out one of Vijay's camp stoves. He has a Trangia mini and this fella which burns twigs and little branches. It is definitely the most fun to use.<br />
<br />
The wildlife around here is ridiculous. You are completely surrounded and everywhere you look there is something fascinating to watch. I find myself constantly snapping photos.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16055937791" title="tierradelfuego16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego16" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/16055937791_476500b317.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Ashy-headed goose<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871827849" title="tierradelfuego17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego17" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8662/15871827849_d3cb631ba0_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
This fella was perched right above our tents. Perhaps he was the bird that pooped all over my new Hilleberg!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057897705" title="tierradelfuego18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego18" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/16057897705_4ce5ba9420.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A Patagonian fox (Zorro)<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438235793" title="tierradelfuego19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego19" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8635/15438235793_84f1353f49.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Southern Caracara (Carancho)<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057200362" title="tierradelfuego20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego20" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/16057200362_4a381a7963.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Black-faced Ibis (Bandurria)<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15870437308" title="tierradelfuego21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego21" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8670/15870437308_5648306710.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Midnight over Lago Roca<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15870610990" title="tierradelfuego22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego22" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7486/15870610990_a87f4ac49f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
After a night of camping, we headed to the end of Route 3, just to say we had.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032108496" title="tierradelfuego23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego23" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8590/16032108496_8aa8764fb0.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15435605234" title="tierradelfuego24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego24" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7549/15435605234_b705c9d8aa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Beech Oranges, or <i>Cyttaria</i>, some kind of fungus. It grows everywhere around here.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15870609140" title="tierradelfuego25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego25" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/15870609140_d3cc1b8985.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Empanadas are seriously great road food!<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Leaving Ushuaia...</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15872131557" title="tierradelfuego26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego26" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15872131557_8dabd9a932.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15870608790" title="tierradelfuego27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego27" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/15870608790_371b6267fa.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16055933801" title="tierradelfuego28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego28" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8611/16055933801_e9b9676ccc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15872130777" title="tierradelfuego29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego29" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7539/15872130777_ffd8db39d0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Heading up and over Garibaldi Pass (900m) which is the highest point on Route 3. It's an 8km climb, but it was very mellow and not very taxing. Compared to cycling Kirkstone Pass in the Cumbrian Lake District, this was a doddle. So far the trip has been much easier than <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/11/notts-to-scots-prelude-to-patagonia.html" target="_blank">my ride to Scotland.</a> Could I be tempting fate?<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lago Escondido </b>(Lago Fagnano in the background)</span><br />
There was a great view from the top of Garibaldi Pass followed by a fantastic downhill ride all the way to the "village" Lago Escondido. There was nothing there, so we chose to wild camp behind some bushes to the side of the highway. It was too far to get to Tolhuin, because we set off from Ushuaia late in the afternoon. Fortunately the days are incredibly long here and it never seems to get really dark in my tent.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15435604124" title="tierradelfuego30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego30" height="281" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7552/15435604124_7de4476463.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The next morning we woke up early and rode about 4km to Lago Fagnano before having breakfast. We didn't have much water, so we figured we would get some from the Lake and boil it up for some porridge. Exciting stuff!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15872130417" title="tierradelfuego31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego31" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/15872130417_a21d1c7c19.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My MSR Whisperlite stove in action. It's a great piece of kit, and is very powerful. The most useful thing is that it can run off petrol which is very easy to find. To fill the bottle cost about 5 pesos, which is really cheap - about 40 pence/ 60 cents. At one gas station they wouldn't let me pay for the gas, so I was really pleased with that! The only problem is that it is very sooty. It's not the cleanest of camp stoves. Vijay has a trangia mini, which runs off ethanol which you can find anywhere in Argentina. Alcohol is a much cleaner fuel source and is not a problem if you get it all over your hands. That said I am very pleased with my whisperlite. I understand that there are quite a few countries where finding ethanol can be pretty tricky. That's never a problem with petrol. Plus, now I can say<b> "We're cooking on gas</b>(oline)<b>"</b> and mean it literally, not just figuratively.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057893525" title="tierradelfuego32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego32" height="236" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7527/16057893525_bd1632dbb6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057196382" title="tierradelfuego33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego33" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7475/16057196382_c6ecbbc6e8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Taking a break by Lago Fagnano, which lies on a faultline between the South American plate and the Scotia plate.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15872129297" title="tierradelfuego37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego37" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7499/15872129297_7b3f1e4d07.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16055932761" title="tierradelfuego34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego34" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7533/16055932761_fd801f087a.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
STOP! (shooting the road signs)<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438231313" title="tierradelfuego35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego35" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15438231313_d4e5b0e1d9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b>"Watch out for Guanacos!!!"</b><br />
or<br />
<b>"Watch out, Guanacos!"</b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871822509" title="tierradelfuego39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego39" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7556/15871822509_6fee820d2b.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Guanaco roadkill.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032105876" title="tierradelfuego36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego36" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8623/16032105876_f601fd9e2e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Shacks.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15435602094" title="tierradelfuego40 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego40" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7549/15435602094_e2fd5b18bb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057892395" title="tierradelfuego38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego38" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8639/16057892395_d6c9f79303.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Our second campsite between Tolhuin and Rio Grande. Nobody was there, but it obviously gets a lot of use as it was strewn with trash. Foxes were scavenging all over the place.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">HEADWINDS...OR WORSE!</span></b><br />
The first two days of riding from Ushuaia were perfect. The landscapes were breathtaking as we were surrounded by mountains and the weather was very forgiving. Day three should have been quite easy as the roads were very flat and we only had about 75km to ride. We set off in the rain, but we made great progress for the first hour or so. Once we hit the Atlantic Coastline that all changed as we cycled straight into a headwind, which slowed us down to around 10 km/h. The mountains had all bit disappeared and there was nothing but vast skies and howling winds. The funny thing is that by the end of the day I would have killed for a headwind. Why on earth would I think that? Because worse than a headwind is a sidewind.<br />
<br />
The sidewinds hit us so badly that we could barely ride in a straight line. Our speeds dropped to lows of 6 or 7 km/h. When vehicles drove past us it blew us all over the place, onto gravel shoulder and off the road. We persevered for quite some time, taking periodic breaks until we eventually had to stop and push the bike for a few kilometres. We were being truly battered by the elements. Was I possibly being punished for suggesting that cycling up to Scotland was tougher? I take that statement back. This was hands down one of the worst winds I have ever ridden in. The vast and bleak landscape only added to the misery. We could have stopped and set up camp, but we didn't have any water to cook with. There seem to be no services between towns here, and those distances are usually around 100km.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057891965" title="tierradelfuego41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego41" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7553/16057891965_5b493942da.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15435601834" title="tierradelfuego42 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego42" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7466/15435601834_07f886a64d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There are lots of shrines for people who have died on the roads here. The roads here are mostly straight with very few sharp turns, so it might be surprising, but people here don't here to any kind of speed limit, or common sense when it comes to overtaking. I didn't find the traffic on route 3 a problem until we got caught in that awful wind when we had little control over our bikes. Now I can't wait to get to San Sebastian so we can get off route 3 and head west on some quieter roads into Chile.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15438229413" title="tierradelfuego43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego43" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7494/15438229413_d1449c7591.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Finally, some Guanacos! ALIVE ONES!!!!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15872128027" title="tierradelfuego44 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego44" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/15872128027_ba90d4d9c5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871821359" title="tierradelfuego45 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego45" height="300" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8653/15871821359_6e47e05f0e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057890885" title="tierradelfuego46 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego46" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/16057890885_4598c3483f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057889875" title="tierradelfuego48 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego48" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8599/16057889875_12001b6aba.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Looks lovely, didn't feel it.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057192652" title="tierradelfuego49 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego49" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/16057192652_c6c66ba783_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
This road sign says it all!<br />
<br />
It was at the brow of this hill that we caught sight of Rio Grande which gave us some motivation. Just a little bit further and the road would bend, meaning the wind would be behind us at last! ABOUT TIME!!!!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15435599244" title="tierradelfuego50 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego50" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7488/15435599244_cb19f96c28.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A busted up suspension bridge.<br />
<br />
The road into Rio Grande is not spectacular. Well, Rio Grande is not a spectacular town at all, but we are happy to be here resting and recovering from a brutal day of riding. The people in this town are incredibly friendly. We were able to cruise into town, being pushed along at around 18 km/h by a tail wind. We didn't need to push at all. I wasn't really aware of the wind at this point, I just felt like I was riding and electric bicycle.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032101756" title="tierradelfuego51 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego51" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8668/16032101756_0907d0b0ef.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Rio Grande<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057888445" title="tierradelfuego52 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego52" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8625/16057888445_aca2501a82_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
CASA COREA! It's like I never left. Korea keeps following me around.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16057887605" title="tierradelfuego53 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego53" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8603/16057887605_4eb92019f1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We checked into room 101. Uh-oh! We stayed in a slightly pricey hotel as we couldn't find the hostel. We also treated ourselves to some local wine and a steak. It would have been rude not to.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16032100686" title="tierradelfuego54 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="tierradelfuego54" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8639/16032100686_b63f643c83.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My pink, wind ravaged face says it all.<br />
<br />
The next morning checked in the local hostel "Hospedaje Argentino". It looked closed, but just as we were about to leave a taxi driver pulled up who happened to be the owner's Mother. She rang him up and we got sorted out with some nice cheaper accommodation.<br />
<br />
When we arrived in Rio Grande yesterday I felt battered, but proud, as we had conquered the winds and battled it out. Today I just feel exhausted, hungry and depressed.<br />
<br />
We're probably going to stay here for another day so we can rest up and sort a bunch of stuff out. Vijay's gears are not doing what they should be doing. He's been having a lot of trouble getting into his lowest gears, which are essential when you are going to be cycling up hills and into winds. There's no real need for high gears, because if there are any downhills while touring, you usually just want to give your legs a rest and coast the whole way.<br />
<br />
Our next big destination is Punta Arenas, in Chile, which I imagine will take about 3 days of cycling! First we head north along route 3 before heading west at San Sebastian. Once at Porvenir we'll catch the ferry across the Straits of Magellan.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;">(next page: </span><a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/12/escaping-tierra-del-fuego-rio-grande-to.html" target="_blank">Escape from Tierra Del Fuego. Rio Grande to Punta Arenas</a><span style="color: orange;">)</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-68452868794615914762014-12-13T10:14:00.002+09:002015-01-10T05:59:05.955+09:00Buenos Aires - Dog walkers, meat and cemeteries.<span style="color: yellow;">(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/12/tierra-del-fuego-cycling-north-from.html" target="_blank">Tierra Del Fuego. Cycling north from Ushuaia to Rio Grande</a>)</span><br />
<br />
Here are some photos of Buenos Aires for you to peep...<br />
<br />
We took a little stroll down to Jorge Newbery airport to sort out our tickets to Ushuaia.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820297230" title="Buenos02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos02" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/15820297230_7f2f863fe0_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007552825" title="Buenos03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos03" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/16007552825_1e96aa4d57_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007540655" title="Buenos04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos04" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7574/16007540655_39469ececa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820136588" title="Buenos05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos05" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/15820136588_27c950ef80.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820314280" title="Buenos06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos06" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7552/15820314280_b96db5ffa3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We stopped off for some roadside choripan.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16006837572" title="Buenos07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos07" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8673/16006837572_0a54aaa2cc_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16005559681" title="Buenos08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos08" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/16005559681_7ae4a08ef5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820177348" title="Buenos09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos09" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/15820177348_185b78947b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821511399" title="Buenos10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos10" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8573/15821511399_749370c5ce.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007507145" title="Buenos11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos11" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8592/16007507145_608df8fb40.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Feral Colombian football fans by the coach load. There was a massive convoy of them going wild. as there was a big cup final between River Plate and Atletico Nacional.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007568485" title="Buenos12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos12" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/16007568485_b59e96ddb4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Vijay doing some serious rooftop chilling.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16005602771" title="Buenos13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos13" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7520/16005602771_3d8266c72e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Hanging with my man Beau who I know from my days in Seoul. He is an exceptional host and took us out to some good spots and gave us plenty of advice about the city.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821750087" title="Buenos14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos14" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7468/15821750087_382e19199e_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821493249" title="Buenos15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos15" height="800" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8586/15821493249_1fd63af302_c.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
I love all the trees in Buenos Aires. It's a really green city, despite being quite polluted.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DOG WALKERS...</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16006873372" title="Buenos16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos16" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8590/16006873372_4331bdb507.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820097018" title="Buenos17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos17" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8622/15820097018_3ba96773aa_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821734887" title="Buenos18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos18" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7475/15821734887_51853b5614.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15387860703" title="Buenos19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos19" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/15387860703_323418b40d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Dog walking is serious business in BA.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15981705216" title="Buenos20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos20" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/15981705216_ae1ab43bb2_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
I have no idea what this sign means.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15981699436" title="Buenos21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos21" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7559/15981699436_47946544c7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Ford Sierras still exist. They are still clearly hot property as the car alarm was blaring. Everybody wants a piece.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">BARBEQUE</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16005598261" title="Buenos23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos23" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8618/16005598261_9d28b4d8c2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15385302704" title="Buenos22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos22" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7533/15385302704_7cec21b33e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820214940" title="Buenos24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos24" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7556/15820214940_ed41d12ecb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I wash my clothes with Zorro.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Cemeterio de la Recoleta </span></b><br />
We stumbled across this vast and fascinating cemetery while looking for a bike shop.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15981781176" title="Buenos25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos25" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/15981781176_f779ba201c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15385210364" title="Buenos26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos26" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/15385210364_993e3de06a_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820211700" title="Buenos27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos27" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/15820211700_524d1dc1ba_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
Selfie Action<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820209250" title="Buenos28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos28" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7520/15820209250_55ca9ff5da.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821463779" title="Buenos29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos29" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7508/15821463779_59377c9076_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821461629" title="Buenos30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos30" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7468/15821461629_b32b82a9e8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007460135" title="Buenos31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos31" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7510/16007460135_0360a7f83a_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007454125" title="Buenos32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos32" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/16007454125_8a5f6233b7_c.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16006761592" title="Buenos33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos33" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/16006761592_8d4f3d7be8_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/16007445485" title="Buenos34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos34" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/16007445485_4b740292fe_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821433499" title="Buenos35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos35" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7496/15821433499_38f20e8655_b.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15387801743" title="Buenos36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos36" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/15387801743_9cd0369714_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15385158824" title="Buenos37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos37" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15385158824_c919a09aa0.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15820019588" title="Buenos38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos38" height="640" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8576/15820019588_8631a4a551_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15821404399" title="Buenos39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Buenos39" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7514/15821404399_78c45d79d3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
That's a pretty detailed bicycle sign.<br />
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That's it for Buenos Aires. It was nice knowing you but Patagonia calls.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">(next page: <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2014/12/tierra-del-fuego-cycling-north-from.html" target="_blank">Tierra Del Fuego. Cycling north from Ushuaia to Rio Grande</a>)</span><br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-3037339798930580282014-12-10T23:17:00.002+09:002014-12-10T23:17:29.796+09:00Buenos Aires - Landed safe and sound.Vijay and I have finally made it to Buenos Aires after a very long journey indeed. It took over twenty four hours, but it was a pleasure to fly with Turkish Airlines. We set off from different airports - Vijay from Birmingham and myself from Gatwick - and met up in Istanbul.<br />
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I had no problems getting my stuff on the plane. I only had a one way ticket, but no questions were asked about having a ticket for onward travel from Argentina. The bike only cost €90 to take on as checked luggage (€30 for the first leg and €60 for the second leg). They were initial going to charge me €120 until I corrected them on the prices. I didn't come anywhere near my maximum luggage allowance, which was two bags of up to 23kg each.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15804688017" title="All boxed up by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="All boxed up" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/15804688017_477cd3cf0e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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After a three and a half hour to flight we had an incredibly long overnight layover in Istanbul airport. I think it was about ten hours. It felt like forever and neither of us managed to get any decent rest. Fortunately on the second leg of the flight we were booked into "comfort class" which meant that we got incredibly spacious seats so that made up for the layover. Check out the leg space below.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15804686647" title="Comfort Class by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Comfort Class" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/15804686647_338b84338d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15804417379" title="Sahara by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Sahara" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15804417379_70486604f6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The Sahara desert.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15964649866" title="Brazil by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Brazil" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7568/15964649866_80f746932b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
First sight of South America - Brazil. It was a comfortable ten hour flight to Sao Paulo, where the plane stopped for an hour or two as a load of passengers got on and off and the flight crew changed. The food on Turkish Airlines was far better than most airlines that I've travelled with. Next stop Buenos Aires! We descended down towards the city in a celestial electrical storm with an unhealthy serving of turbulence on the side. The lightning show was amazing although I was slightly worried that I might not actually get to ride my bike in South America! Fortunately we didn't plummet into the ocean.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15803039078" title="Baggage Pick Up by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Baggage Pick Up" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8656/15803039078_80fd258b91.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The bike arrived in one piece along with the rest of our luggage. Vijay negotiated our way through immigration smoothly and booked 4 nights in the Palacio Chic Hotel in Palermo. As we're going to be living in tents for the next few months, we were more than willing to drop a few dollars on a decent hotel. We ordered a taxi large enough to carry all of our gear for $50 USD. It's quite a journey to Palermo from Ministro Pistarini International Airport so I don't think it was bad value.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15990409195" title="Palacio Chic by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Palacio Chic" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8603/15990409195_60f00e59aa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This is the view from our balcony. That's as much of the city as I have seen so far. Why? Because I'm just getting up. So that's enough typing for now. Time to do some exploring.Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-74797309756922464462014-12-06T04:56:00.002+09:002014-12-08T21:35:42.164+09:00Air Europa and Travelpack. DON'T DO IT!!!When looking for flights to Patagonia, Vijay and I settled on a great deal we saw through Travelpack. It was excellent value, approximately £500 each for a one way flight from London Gatwick to Ushuaia, via Madrid and Buenos Aires. We checked out the bicycle policies and everything seemed perfect. A look at Air Europa's <a href="https://www.aireuropa.com/en/flights/baggage#special_baggage" target="_blank">special baggage policy</a> and you can clearly see that it costs just €75 to take a bicycle as extra baggage. We thought this was perfect, so booked the tickets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheJ1Y53mxcCD4a3NZJSlsWXAE36DSeFtvyj1TajQ1L2DOwuDwow8gMmWV63X7Ds2NkRQKSUTTkwk8Bg9V7IOFY2eRZYppLSDTjqBn1T8bIkKq3GCOlNVcAeAncrdFtF5RKqGyo8ntk5KbQ/s1600/special+baggage.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheJ1Y53mxcCD4a3NZJSlsWXAE36DSeFtvyj1TajQ1L2DOwuDwow8gMmWV63X7Ds2NkRQKSUTTkwk8Bg9V7IOFY2eRZYppLSDTjqBn1T8bIkKq3GCOlNVcAeAncrdFtF5RKqGyo8ntk5KbQ/s1600/special+baggage.png" width="500" /></a></div>
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Closer to the date we emailed Air Europa to book our bicycles onto the flight. They told us that they were not accepting any extra luggage between 15 November 2014 to 15 January 2015. This information was detailed under "checked baggage", however it wasn't even clearly displayed on the page, you had to expand a link saying <b>check the exceptions for your destinations </b>(see below).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH59YpwiRU1-mk6DBbwGHEGtitFLPnOho3RgUw1AX2Qb-rrOavBiKj98OEpBXqaWosEQvYeW0ljcXxxLT4on5nsZz1Y1IDAMoC3JKudRo-fbW2zHm53FoYpR9A6TMNEXzHAkFyLiyvHleA/s1600/Checked+baggage.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH59YpwiRU1-mk6DBbwGHEGtitFLPnOho3RgUw1AX2Qb-rrOavBiKj98OEpBXqaWosEQvYeW0ljcXxxLT4on5nsZz1Y1IDAMoC3JKudRo-fbW2zHm53FoYpR9A6TMNEXzHAkFyLiyvHleA/s1600/Checked+baggage.png" width="500" /></a></div>
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Why would exceptions for excess baggage be displayed on the "checked baggage" page? Why is it on an expandable link? Why wasn't it simply there on the page for all to see in the first place? I am very disappointed that Air Europa have created such unintuitive set of information on baggage. The really sad thing is that the sole reason we booked with them was because their site gives the impression that bicycles are accepted. It would take some serious digging around to find those excess baggage exceptions. There wasn't even an asterix(*) to bring it to your attention that there were exceptions.<br />
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So unfortunately we have lost our £500 (each) because travelpack has a no refund policy. We contacted Air Europa to see if they might be able to give us special dispensation to carry these bikes despite their rules, but they refused to make any exceptions for us. This is a dream trip for both Vijay and myself and we felt hugely let down by both Air Europa for the deceptive information on their website and travelpack for their policies. We have lost £1000 between us, which is a massive sum of money to us, but very little to companies like Air Europa and Travelpack.<br />
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I asked a member of staff at Air Europa why they weren't accepting excess baggage. They replied that it is a very "busy" time. Personally, I don't accept this excuse. Most airlines carry excess baggage during even the busiest times of the year. It is possible that and Air Europa plane could be full outside of this busy period, yet they would still carry excess baggage in those circumstances. It seems clear to me that Air Europa must be making additional income during this period by carrying commercial packages and post. This is something that they denied over the phone.<br />
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I would not recommend flying with Air Europa. They have a lot of negative feedback online, yet stupidly we decided to give them a chance because the deal seemed so good. That has come back to haunt us. I don't like to pay too much attention to online negativity, but this has shown me that sometimes you really should!<br />
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In the end we have just had to wave goodbye to £1000. I am pretty bitter about this. We have made alternative travel arrangements and have booked directly Turkish Airlines. They are more expensive, but a great airline to travel with. I previous flew with them from London Gatwick to Seoul in 2013 and I took my bicycle with me. It is going to cost just €90 to carry the bikes from London to Buenos Aires. I regret that we didn't simply book with them in the first place. It's worth paying a little extra to fly with a reputable airline. Booking with a shoddy company like Travelpack just leads to tears.<br />
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Nonetheless excitement levels are high. We are still about to go away on an epic trip, we just happen to have haemorrhaged a shed load of money in the process thanks to Travelpack and Air Europa. I'm looking forward to flying with Turkish Airlines and filling my belly with Turkish food at Istanbul airport during the layover.<br />
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***UPDATE***<br />
I received an email to say that we would receive a refund, but that there would be a £150 cancellation fee each. The refund should take 5-6 weeks. Watch this space!<br />
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Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-50950257034669461462014-11-30T00:50:00.002+09:002014-12-06T05:06:51.838+09:00Notts to Scots... (prelude to Patagonia)In about ten days time I will be flying to Ushuaia at the southern tip of Argentina with my friend Vijay. This trip to Galloway in Scotland was to be a little bit of a test run. It would give me the opportunity to test out a lot of my equipment and try to figure out a way to comfortably set up my bike. This was to be the first time I had ever ridden with a fully loaded bicycle including front panniers. Below is what it looked like the moment I set off northbound from Nottingham.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709659378" title="scotland001 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland001" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8585/15709659378_115bf86678.jpg" width="500" /></a>
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I was going to head up to Scotland regardless to catch up with my Granny and all my Scottish relatives. I could have rented a car and driven which I suppose would have been the easier option. I could declare that my decision to cycle to Scotland was based on the pursuit of adventure. Truth be told, I only passed my driving test a year ago at the age of 32 and I haven't driven once since that moment. The idea of hiring a car and driving up to Scotland is far more daunting to me than the idea of cycling up there! So essentially I was just being a coward by cycling as I was too scared to rent a car. Fortunately people seem to be impressed by the decision... FOOLS! Haha.<br />
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The trip was to be a surprise for my Granny. I didn't tell any of my relatives about the trip except for my Aunt Eleanor who lives way up in Edinburgh. I wanted to see her while I was visiting my Granny, so I kept her in the loop so she could arrange to come down and hang out. She is also my chief gin and tonic maker, so if she didn't come down to my Granny's I would be without my nightly aperitifs. There was no way I was going to let that happen!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY ONE: Nottingham to Sheffield (70 km)</span></b><br />
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I expected to journey to Scotland to take 6 days - 5 days of cycling and one rest day in the Lake District. I didn't really have a solid plan of exactly what route I would take or where I would be staying. These were decisions that would be made along the way. Day one was the exception to this. I knew I was going to ride up to Sheffield where I once lived for five years. I expected this to take about four hours having done this journey in that time a year before. I was wrong! Take a look at the next three photos and you might gather why.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709848840" title="scotland002 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland002" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/15709848840_24d9e270ac.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709849780" title="scotland003 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland003" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8650/15709849780_088b2f8cfa_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Try fitting this through that. Time to engage core muscles and LIFT!!!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277515453" title="scotland004 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland004" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/15277515453_9c4084c49d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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For the trip to Sheffield I decided to consult google maps' cycling option. Sometimes this can work well but this time it was a massive fail. The problem with many cycle route planners is that they will try and stick you on all of the available cycle paths which can lead to a multitude of problems. These routes are seldom direct. The surface quality of these cycle paths can also be dreadful (as seen in the photo directly above) which means that you are forced to cycle at painfully slow speeds. The biggest annoyance for me was on national cycle route 6. As you cycled out of Nottingham each segment of the cycle path had these barriers to stop people from squeezing their motor vehicles through. This is really annoying if you are touring as you can't fit your bike with panniers through the given space. So you can either remove your panniers and wheel your bike through, or do as I did and just pick up the entire rig and carry it over. That was not much fun as the whole bike was ridiculously heavy. I need to get rid of some excess baggage for Patagonia.<br />
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These paths would be nice for an afternoon jaunt on your bicycle in the summer, but for little else.<br />
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Getting out of Nottingham was painfully slow, but I did make one mistake which led me to Newstead Abbey, the residence of the poet Lord Byron. I was quite pleased with that mistake!<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871345026" title="scotland005 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland005" height="300" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/15871345026_3520d78ab8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Eventually I got sick of the route that was given to me by google, so I just got onto the roads and bypassed national cycle route 6 altogether. Suddenly progress was made.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711124259" title="scotland006 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland006" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8616/15711124259_2fef1413b7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
These zombie children are here to let you know that you're passing a school. Creepy stuff.<br />
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After visiting Newstead Abbey you get the pleasure of riding through the rest of the not so stately north Nottinghamshire...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274935844" title="scotland007 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland007" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8682/15274935844_cc53884555.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896504652" title="scotland008 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland008" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8576/15896504652_1dfd990c60.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709706298" title="scotland009 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland009" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/15709706298_e9a740165b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Chad... <i>much more</i> local than Santoshi or Patel. I guess we're entering UKIP territory now. Uh-oh.<br />
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It started to get dark as I rode into Chesterfield. Below you can see Chesterfield Parish Church, an example of fine British craftsmanship. The spire of the church is crooked and warped. If only we had some more skilled migrant labourers back in 1362, perhaps then the spire would be straight? We can only speculate.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895168521" title="scotland010 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland010" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7482/15895168521_6e491dd09f_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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I set off from Nottingham after midday on day one which resulted in me riding into Sheffield long after sunset. I had expected the ride to take 4 hours but it actually took about 5 hours 30 minutes. I would like to blame it on the route planner, but that was just one factor of many. The fully loaded bike was much heavier than I was used to. Just cruising along on the flat was much slower than normal. The main factor was that I was simply not cycle fit. The most I had recently ridden prior to this was 36km without all my kit. This ride ended up being around 70km and the bike weighed a ton.<br />
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The slow progress was a bit of a blow to my morale. This ride was going to be a lot tougher than I had anticipated.<br />
<br />
I spent the night at my friend Nathan's house in my old neighbourhood down near Ecclesall Road. I couldn't believe how much the area has changed. It's till very lively but the street is full of chain restaurants. In one spot I even saw a Pizza Express, Nandos and a Taco Bell next to each other. That's right... TACO BELL!!! What is happening? Fortunately Two Steps chippy is still going strong, so I ordered fish and chips with a few large pickle onions on the side. After that we washed it down with a couple of ales at my old local pub, the Porter Cottage, with my old friends Steve and Arthur. You've got to replace all those calories somehow.<br />
<br />
The downside of eating pickled onions is the stench that emanates from your sleeping bag in the morning as you wake from your slumber. Well, I might say that it's a downside, but I actually love the smell!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY TWO: Sheffield to Cononley (89 km)</span></b><br />
<br />
I took a quiet but hilly route through Sheffield to Hillsborough, past the Sheffield Wednesday football ground and the Owlerton greyhound racing track. From there it was uphill for a long way out into the Pennines, the longest mountain range in Britain. It stretches from the Peak District all the way up to Scotland.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897166175" title="scotland011 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland011" height="383" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7468/15897166175_95a96ecf09.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711167869" title="scotland012 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland012" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/15711167869_4292900694.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711126909" title="scotland013 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland013" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7563/15711126909_3cfae4c38f_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896548292" title="scotland014 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland014" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8568/15896548292_5aa73aa809.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Penistone! There are a lot of great town names in England. Some of them ruder than others.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277519913" title="scotland015 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland015" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7499/15277519913_dae1e4b03a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Taking a break after a long climb. I mostly ate sandwiches from petrol stations and granola bars as I was cycling. However my favourite instant snack is a tin of cold rice pudding - 400 calories just like that! BOOM!<br />
<br />
It was pretty cold weather, but generally I just wore a merino wool base layer. It kept me very warm. I popped on a jacket for the downhills as it wind chill was a little too much to bare. If I cycled in the jacket it would start to get a little steamy in there.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274896784" title="scotland016 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland016" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7575/15274896784_afc72ab7a1_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Some industrial relic in the clouds. In Yorkshire you see a lot of old warehouses and factories. Some of them are incredibly old. Despite being a very rural part of Britain there is still a lot of evidence of its heavy industrial past.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709855860" title="scotland017 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland017" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/15709855860_7ea563bb5c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"Call Tania. She'll tan ya for a tenner."<br />
<br />
I spotted this gem of a poster for Sun Junkie whilst riding north out of Halifax. It was a complete bastard of a climb. The hill seemed to never end. It was possibly the slowest I have ever ridden.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277521083" title="scotland018 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland018" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/15277521083_8eab3db266.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I saw a lot of viaducts on this trip. They're two a penny round these parts.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896508942" title="scotland019 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland019" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7536/15896508942_09329060fc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Proper bleak house. Heathcliff might have a bit of trouble selling that place.<br />
<br />
As the sun got low approaching Skipton I started to worry about accommodation, so I got my phone out to find a campsite. Fortunately there was one very close by in Cononley, a tiny village on the rail tracks. I rolled up to the Riverside camp ground and pitched my tent as the sun set. There were no other campers, just a couple in a motor home. It cost £10 for the pitch.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709706968" title="scotland020 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland020" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8636/15709706968_f80d0cf889.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Living in the city, the night time doesn't really affect you. The days are incredibly short in a British winter and this becomes very evident when you are cycling in the countryside and staying in villages. Generally the sun would rise around 8am and set around 4pm, so cycling is a race against daylight. The further north you go, the shorter the daylight hours. The problem is that once you have set your tent up it is pitch black and you are exhausted. It feels like it is 9pm but it is actually 4pm. It's still the bloody afternoon! All you want to do is eat and go to sleep, but you can't do that because you will end up waking up at some ungodly hour in the morning.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277521493" title="scotland021 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland021" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/15277521493_579c1d0712.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
In Cononley there was a Chinese take away (that's one thing every self respecting village in the UK has) and a couple of pubs, none of which opened until after 5pm. So I had to grab a shitty sandwich and a snickers bar from the post office while I waited for the village to come to life before I could oblige myself with the mandatory calorie binge that I have come to expect after a long day's ride. Finally I made myself comfortable in a pub and ordered a big dinner with a Cumberland sausage, topped off with a few jars of Timothy Taylor "Boltmaker". A damn fine ale.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871351196" title="scotland022 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland022" height="308" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/15871351196_d81efaf63d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
In Cononley I got to test my new tent. I splashed out and bought a Hilleberg Nallo 2. It is a damn sturdy tent. What I hadn't counted on was how damp England is. British winters are humid, so everything is covered in a dense layer of dew in the mornings and everything is misty. Needless to say that all the contents of my tent were covered in condensation in the morning. Luckily all my things were in dry bags. I'm used to bone dry sub zero Korean winters. British winters are much milder than Korean ones, but the moisture in the air makes everything feel much colder. In Korea I can just pop on some long johns and thermal underwear, problem solved. In Britain your long johns will just get soaking wet and you'll be cold anyway.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY THREE: Cononley to Kendal (79 km)</span></b><br />
<br />
Breakfast time! A cold tin of rice pudding and an apple.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277522033" title="scotland023 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland023" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7491/15277522033_3c81a3cf61.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I packed away my tent, which was soaked with condensation, bought some snacks and set out on the road. I tried to master the art of eating sandwiches while cycling, but it proved near fatal so I shelved that idea for future hunger pangs.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277561513" title="scotland024 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland024" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8632/15277561513_c2a248e44b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897170455" title="scotland025 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland025" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7469/15897170455_ebaee0e1a0_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The morning was a tough cycle. My legs were feeling pretty weary. The roads looked mostly flat, but they were those deceptive roads that are actually a slight incline. The majority of the morning was uphill towards Settle, but I didn't realise it. I listened to my body though and rode slowly until lunch. I stopped off in a little cafe and ordered a large mug of coffee and a plate of pie, chips and vegetables.<br />
<br />
My front derailleur was throwing tantrums, so I gave it a good seeing to before setting off back on the road towards Kirkby Lonsdale. It feels so good when everything works properly after it hasn't been working for a while.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274937804" title="scotland026 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland026" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7532/15274937804_92303463b3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
There is a large hill heading out of Settle but after that there is a fantastic hill bomb. The morning had been a real grind, but after that lunch break I was flying! PIE POWER! Whereas Cononley to Settle had been a constant invisible uphill, this was quite the opposite. It was easy to maintain a good speed without really making any effort. The ease was such a relief and the landscape got more and more scenic as the day progressed.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897170835" title="scotland027 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland027" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7527/15897170835_efa672704a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277524063" title="scotland028 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland028" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7555/15277524063_55d3f760df.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896512372" title="scotland029 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland029" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/15896512372_8e4c3eeece.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Hungry? GAME COCK!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871354636" title="scotland030 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland030" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7477/15871354636_a8779405bb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711169189" title="scotland031 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland031" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7560/15711169189_2014166df9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Keeping my navigation simple. I should have written down instructions too (I did later). Inspecting a map while riding is pretty wreckless.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711436867" title="scotland032 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland032" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8599/15711436867_d3cbfe7012.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Brace yourselves for lots of photos of horses.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895213391" title="scotland033 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland033" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7553/15895213391_6bfe78ba70.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709672258" title="scotland034 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland034" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15709672258_171d7c8a99.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Kirkby Lonsdale. From here I took B6254 to Kendal. It's a stunning route as you shall see! It was probably the most scenic ride I have ever done, partly due to the epic sunset.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897174295" title="scotland035 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland035" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/15897174295_b11c20177d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709863160" title="scotland036 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland036" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7544/15709863160_69d0fd181a_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Cakes!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871357876" title="scotland037 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland037" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7536/15871357876_b1e94eeba6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Speckled horse.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895179981" title="scotland038 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland038" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7514/15895179981_edb80da630_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Pheasant. There were dozens of them at this spot.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711404677" title="scotland039 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland039" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7579/15711404677_8615778dab_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Empty winding roads.<br />
<br />
Brace yourselves...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711138429" title="scotland040 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland040" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/15711138429_767e9f8390.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896518642" title="scotland041 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland041" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8623/15896518642_9470714469.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274908884" title="scotland042 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland042" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8565/15274908884_bc03c9ca52_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I'm a sucker for blind spot mirror selfies.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896550312" title="scotland043 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland043" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/15896550312_10c0d87e54.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The day ended on a lovely downhill ride into Kendal past Oxenholme station. It turned out that I had descended upon the town as the Mountain Festival was opening. An army of active types had invaded the town for a film festival about outdoors pursuits, so there was quite an atmosphere. I watched a couple of short films on the big screen in the square before sniffing out the local chippy. As you can see the quality of my calories was not so good.<br />
<br />
I stayed at the Youth Hostel by the Brewery Arts Centre. It cost £20 a night.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274939444" title="scotland044 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland044" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7467/15274939444_7d76d539dc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY FOUR: Kendal to Penrith (68 km)</span></b><br />
<br />
This was supposed to be a rest day for my feeble weary body to recover. I changed my mind and thought I would do a short ride to Glenridding and maybe do hike. What an idiot. This day was BRUTAL.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711139809" title="scotland045 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland045" height="202" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/15711139809_f35a63f879.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895183331" title="scotland046 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland046" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/15895183331_427ac8b59c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895214271" title="scotland047 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland047" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8672/15895214271_ba292242ca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I cycled over to Lake Windermere and took a nice break before heading over to Ullswater via Kirkstone Pass. Yes, I said Kirkstone Pass.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277533673" title="scotland048 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland048" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8624/15277533673_55fa94bdf0_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709869400" title="scotland049 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland049" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8604/15709869400_9ec7215f11.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Did I say "rest day"? Scrap that.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274911394" title="scotland050 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland050" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7559/15274911394_291753c850.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"Up and awaaaaaay on my beautiful, heavily laden touring biiiiiike!"<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897182385" title="scotland051 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland051" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/15897182385_809b1b5f7f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Eurgh.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895186331" title="scotland052 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland052" height="284" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7481/15895186331_75a50635e1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
That's pretty. I suppose I really should stop cycling for second and take loads of photographs. Well, it <i>would </i>be rude not to.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871365916" title="scotland053 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland053" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7544/15871365916_1724c3b273_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274914014" title="scotland054 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland054" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7536/15274914014_9e7d596500.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277538603" title="scotland055 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland055" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7579/15277538603_6f03199be6_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It took about an hour to cycle to the top of Kirkstone Pass and there were some steep gradients. My legs and knees were ruined afterwards.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277564493" title="scotland056 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland056" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8678/15277564493_61af9f0c67.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Sharing the roads.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896551652" title="scotland057 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland057" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/15896551652_64b0283cb2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Finally, the winnings. A gorgeous view and one of the most serious downhill rides all the way to Ullswater.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274915264" title="scotland058 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland058" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7475/15274915264_d343f37799_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895215601" title="scotland059 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland059" height="211" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/15895215601_f9f8caf87c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709685198" title="scotland060 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland060" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8618/15709685198_523c032497_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I just rode over that? What the hell was I thinking?<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711414897" title="scotland061 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland061" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8607/15711414897_33cb7823eb_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
In Patterdale the sheep are punk as fuck.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277566143" title="scotland062 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland062" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/15277566143_41b88d6347.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I saw so many signs for red squirrels in Cumbria and Scotland but didn't see any.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274942204" title="scotland063 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland063" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7535/15274942204_c58acec2a6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895217331" title="scotland064 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland064" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7554/15895217331_088de57a36.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I tried to find the youth hostel which was a long ride all the way up this road at the base of Helvellyn, England's 3rd highest mountain. On the ascent a guy on a unicycle came flying down past me with his dog in tow. I suddenly felt a bit pathetic. It was a long climb which resulted in nothing. The youth hostel was closed and wouldn't open until 5pm, hours later. There was no way I was waiting for 3 hours for this place to open and there was also not a chance that I was going to come back up this road again. At one point I thought I was going to do a hike after this ride. Think again.<br />
<br />
There was nothing to do in Glenridding. It was the off season and all the other accommodation was expensive. I didn't feel like camping either as the weather had become seriously grim. I decided to press on to Penrith. It was only 23km away and was mostly flat following the edge of Lake Ullswater. It was an easy but miserable ride in low grey light with a constant light rain.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709876820" title="scotland065 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland065" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7560/15709876820_c39713989b_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897214325" title="scotland066 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland066" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7495/15897214325_52b631e9e6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I rolled into Penrith in a cold steady rain as night fell. The hostel was fully booked. I couldn't believe it! Out of options I headed to the Station Hotel. It wasn't bad accommodation, it cost £37.50 which included an massive breakfast which set me up nicely for the next day.<br />
<br />
I walked around Penrith centre to find something to do and stuff to eat. All the pubs looked pretty generic. I ended up stumbling into a Wetherspoon's and ordered a cheap steak, but laid off the beer. I needed a protein fix! It had been a good day of riding over some rugged terrain but the weather left me in a dreadful mood. Eating dinner by myself in a Wetherspoon's only compounded the misery. I was starting to see how badly little things can affect your morale.<br />
<br />
Back at the hotel I took my tent out to give it an airing. It was still damp from two nights before. It was really early and I had some hours to kill, so I watched some god awful television show about the seventies. I decided it was time to treat myself, so I popped down to the pub and got myself a glass of Bowmore single malt whiskey and took it back to my room. It hit the spot! Some little things can also really lift your morale. Cheers!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY FIVE: Penrith to Annan (65 km)</span></b><br />
<br />
After the slog over Kirkstone Pass the day before, day five ended up being more of a rest day. This dour weather continued in the morning, but soon lifted. The road undulated, but it was mostly a slight downhill all the way to the next city. That was a relief. It took no time to get to Carlisle and Scotland was in my sights.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711442137" title="scotland067 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland067" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/15711442137_e962a11a9c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The sun came out in full force, so I decided to worship it by sacrificing a snickers bar by the roadside.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711442447" title="scotland068 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland068" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/15711442447_66cfc78a5b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
COCKLAKES! WAHEY!!! Another winner of a name for a British village.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709877090" title="scotland069 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland069" height="300" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8667/15709877090_45c0d1a495.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Carlisle. Up north the buildings turn red.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896529712" title="scotland070 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland070" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/15896529712_f7401836b4_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Leftover halloween decorations.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277544043" title="scotland071 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland071" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/15277544043_39ca0dc171.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Approaching Scotland! Gretna is the first town in Scotland.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274920844" title="scotland072 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland072" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7573/15274920844_27818bfb54_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">SCOTLAND!!!</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277545143" title="scotland073 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland073" height="317" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15277545143_af607e190e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709904880" title="scotland074 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland074" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/15709904880_1ed7363c99.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Self indulgent selfie time.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711153169" title="scotland075 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland075" height="314" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/15711153169_d9658c79db.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The borders around Solway Firth are flat and sometimes windy, but luck was on my side.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277546683" title="scotland076 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland076" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7461/15277546683_5ef8f4256f_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I decided to stop in Annan and camp at Broom Fisheries campsite. Lots of people come here to go course fishing. They have about 8 ponds on the sight of an old munitions factory. It was a couple of miles out of the way, so I set up my tent and rode back into town to meet a friend for a cup of tea before grabbing a haggis supper dinner. For those not in the know, a "supper" is with chips. Battered haggis and chips. Once again I had hours to kill, so I went to a pub and chatted to some locals. Eventually I cycled back to the campsite in the pissing rain. It was the darkest night and the roads were unlit. My supernova E3 dynamo light illuminated all. No problem!<br />
<br />
A group of workers from Sellafield nuclear plant were staying in a motor home next to me. They were the only other people at the campsite and had come up from Whitehaven. They gave me a steaming cup of tea and promised to make me a bacon sandwich the next morning. We chatted for a little while before they headed off to town in a taxi to sink a few beers.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY SIX: Annan to Laggan (88 km)</span></b><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897193985" title="scotland077 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland077" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/15897193985_8ab8594be3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My lovely tent.<br />
<br />
True to their word my neighbours cooked me breakfast, but not a bacon sandwich as they had originally offered. I received a full English breakfast with black pudding from Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides. I was delighted with my first class treatment. It must be said that people are way friendlier in the north... most of the time.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711155539" title="scotland078 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland078" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7582/15711155539_107b550456.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It was a very cold morning. The ground was covered with a layer of mist. The sky ahead was blue but I rode in the shade for an hour or so.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871377456" title="scotland079 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland079" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7521/15871377456_5ebc785d6e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709695528" title="scotland080 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland080" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8605/15709695528_49021789f9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274926204" title="scotland081 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland081" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/15274926204_fe447d0c08.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The moment the sun came out.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711424857" title="scotland082 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland082" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/15711424857_cda74a4bb3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709697238" title="scotland083 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland083" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7495/15709697238_e2ef3c1799_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Hate on kickstands all you like, but this Pletscher kickstand constantly comes in use.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896539412" title="scotland084 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland084" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8657/15896539412_212e4ef37f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Flowers? What?<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871382086" title="scotland085 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland085" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7498/15871382086_d329edc140.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709890170" title="scotland086 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland086" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7535/15709890170_e7849113a7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The roads were all lined by these blooming gorse bushes (or whins). I felt tricked into it being a very cold spring day.<br />
<br />
<b>Dumfries</b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277569643" title="scotland087 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland087" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8588/15277569643_3a0d45a623.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871398856" title="scotland088 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland088" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8657/15871398856_b7149a38bc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709700158" title="scotland089 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland089" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/15709700158_821f122fdd.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I was running out of energy, so when I got to Dalbeattie I popped into a petrol station and bought some Irn Bru and some Tunnock's tea cakes to boost my sugar levels. All local stuff!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709891090" title="scotland090 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland090" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/15709891090_a0b2e98a06.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<b>Castle Douglas</b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711163149" title="scotland091 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland091" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8670/15711163149_c167faedae_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Castle Douglas is supposed to be the "food town" of Dumfries and Galloway. Ironically the first thing you see there is a TESCO supermarket. Being a Sunday, all the shops were closed. I spotted a fine fish and chips shop and ordered a spam fritter supper. That's right, battered and fried spam! I remember having one of these when I was a kid in this very town. I haven't seen them anywhere else since. The only junk food I didn't get to try was deep fried pizza... and deep fried mars bars.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711444457" title="scotland092 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland092" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/15711444457_4d5c2fe314.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
After the spam fritter I raced the last stretch along the A75 to my Granny's house a few miles west of Gatehouse of Fleet. Admittedly my diet had been atrocious on this trip, but this gave me some serious power. I think sports nutritionists have missed a trick here. I can't even begin to imagine how much faster Usain Bolt would be after a spam fritter supper.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871384886" title="scotland093 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland093" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/15871384886_0ce5b617a2_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Rainbow shower.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897203905" title="scotland094 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland094" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7517/15897203905_76c5b88a2c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Zooming down from Twynholm towards the fleet you approach teletubby land, I mean Gatehouse of Fleet. Sunset was approaching so the light was gorgeous.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896558022" title="scotland095 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland095" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7529/15896558022_4ee621597a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Cardoness Castle.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277557683" title="scotland096 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland096" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8582/15277557683_713a8aaff5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Skyreburn<br />
<br />
<b>LAGGAN! </b>Just in time for sunset. Turning the corner, I bolted up the hill towards my Granny's house, Laggan. I waved like a maniac and saw someone waving back. It was my Aunt Eleanor. My Granny thought she was mad, waving at some stranger on a bike.<br />
<br />
Granny: "Who are you waving at?'<br />
Elly: "The cyclist."<br />
Granny: "What makes you think he's waving at you? He could be waving at someone else."<br />
Uncle Andrew: "Do you know who that is?"<br />
Elly: "Maybe"<br />
Uncle Andrew: "It's not Alasdair, is it?"<br />
BINGO!!!<br />
<br />
It was good to see the look on my Granny's face. She hadn't a clue that I was coming. I imagine that I was probably the last people she expected to turn up to her house that day.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871400386" title="scotland097 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland097" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/15871400386_3cdec5892e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871400716" title="scotland098 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland098" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/15871400716_d2fba1aab3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My Granny and Aunt Eleanor.<br />
<br />
Sunrise at 8am, Laggan.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709718118" title="scotland099 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland099" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8608/15709718118_39205484c6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709894030" title="scotland100 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland100" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7507/15709894030_6629cc1e38_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274934484" title="scotland101 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland101" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/15274934484_9727a6172f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The Isle of Man on the horizon. You can only see it on a very clear day.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274934714" title="scotland102 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland102" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/15274934714_aef6902a5e_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Robin at Anwoth cemetery. Granny's garden is chock full of these fellas.<br />
<br />
Behind Laggan is "Ben John" a hill that overlooks the farmland and the Irish Sea. A visit to Laggan is never complete without a walk up the hill.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274935384" title="scotland103 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland103" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7512/15274935384_70ffd67656.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896499842" title="scotland104 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland104" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/15896499842_27bbdd3cba.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15277512433" title="scotland105 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland105" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/15277512433_87059d1198.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895161901" title="scotland106 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland106" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8679/15895161901_7dc13a1121.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The Galloway hills.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709846110" title="scotland107 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland107" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/15709846110_c81a0e1326.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Celestial sunrays behind Ardwall and the Murray Isles.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15709845590" title="scotland108 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland108" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/15709845590_92131de8d9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Situated on Ben John is one of Europe's longest zip wires (820 metres). Have a go! Contact my cousins at <a href="http://www.lagganoutdoor.co.uk/" target="_blank">Laggan Outdoor </a>.<br />
<br />
Heading home. I chose to take the train back to Nottingham, but I had to ride back to Dumfries first! I took the back roads avoiding the A75. It was about 63 km in total. The conditions were perfect (at the start).<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897219315" title="scotland109 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland109" height="375" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8614/15897219315_6748aa22b8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711383617" title="scotland110 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland110" height="210" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7575/15711383617_fd05787860.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
At Gatehouse of Fleet I turned left and took the long route along Laurieston Road through Laurieston Forest.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895159721" title="scotland111 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland111" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/15895159721_bf0d5fa95c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15896495762" title="scotland112 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland112" height="313" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/15896495762_da9390b52e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15897219715" title="scotland113 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland113" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7572/15897219715_e2fddb8078.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15871337526" title="scotland114 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland114" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7565/15871337526_e3aa7f3cd7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711381787" title="scotland115 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland115" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7546/15711381787_f50bdfbc5c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711114449" title="scotland116 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland116" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/15711114449_5815bb836c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274882734" title="scotland117 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland117" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7555/15274882734_016fc48613.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Red kites everywhere! Quite a sight soaring up high looking for prey.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15711380517" title="scotland118 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland118" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/15711380517_25975cdd80_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I met my Granny and Elly for coffee and tea cakes in Castle Douglas before heading on towards Dumfries. It's a lot livelier during the week!<br />
<br />
The old military road was quiet and hilly, but there was a constant cloudy drizzle the entire way. I couldn't complain as I had the fortune of some decent weather. I experienced very little wind the whole time. I guess I'll be getting that in droves when I get to Patagonia. I'm talking about the weather, not my bowels.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15895155961" title="scotland119 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland119" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/15895155961_12da1e90c8_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"Darf ich bitte meine jacke ausziehen?"<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15274881134" title="scotland121 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="scotland121" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7532/15274881134_014dbf51df.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
This is it. Game over. Toilet time. It was an amazing trip and it felt good to see my country from a different perspective. It really is a magnificent place once you get out of the cities and towns. Cycling in winter also meant that the low sunshine meant for some extended golden hours before sunset.<br />
<br />
The only thing that bugged me is to see that every town in the country is plagued by the same chains of shops without fail. I can't be bothered to list them, but independent stores really are vanishing. The dominance of chains shops is really depressing. Shop local kids!<br />
<br />
Sod it, I'll just look in the other direction towards the rolling hillsides.<br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-7716064201152832502014-10-31T21:59:00.001+09:002014-10-31T22:00:20.336+09:00Snapshots of Buraidah (part two)Here are the rest of my photos from Buraidah, with a few thrown in from my weekend trip to Dubai. My stay in Saudi Arabia was cut short unfortunately. My company had to restructure, so 16 staff were made redundant. Nonetheless, there is a silver lining. The redundancy package will fund my next adventure: A cycle tour in South America!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053035364" title="buraidah01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah01" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7549/15053035364_7b8fc3e070.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15488191030" title="buraidah02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah02" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/15488191030_084f2c7b97.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15673010815" title="buraidah03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah03" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/15673010815_4b5140212b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053630363" title="buraidah04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah04" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15053630363_5840caecdb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053630273" title="buraidah05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah05" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/15053630273_f31a089e75.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15488190470" title="buraidah06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah06" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15488190470_01876780b1.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053034684" title="buraidah07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah07" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7531/15053034684_968f812d3b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053629663" title="buraidah08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah08" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/15053629663_66a84d852a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15671076171" title="buraidah09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah09" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7505/15671076171_92e7a0941c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487792787" title="buraidah10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah10" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/15487792787_9d997618ef.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15649271216" title="buraidah11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah11" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7582/15649271216_b4662b6cf3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15488189900" title="buraidah12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah12" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15488189900_88bb2390a5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487116769" title="buraidah13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah13" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15487116769_5e96a1f358.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Off to Dubai</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487782498" title="IMG_6446 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_6446" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15487782498_928990a105.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15488189650" title="buraidah14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah14" height="640" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/15488189650_78960713b9_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053809533" title="IMG_6453 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_6453" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7493/15053809533_b6cfc0389d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487116619" title="buraidah15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah15" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15487116619_f269297cab.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487792127" title="buraidah16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah16" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7471/15487792127_f1d19accc4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053628483" title="buraidah17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah17" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7494/15053628483_1b219c9cce.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15671075051" title="buraidah18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah18" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/15671075051_7fc9922f7f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487601358" title="buraidah19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah19" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15487601358_28d601ed78.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15649270056" title="buraidah20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah20" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3939/15649270056_757c09c623.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15673008665" title="buraidah21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah21" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7554/15673008665_9a1c1bbb4c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15674586752" title="buraidah22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah22" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15674586752_e30889f3a1.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053627843" title="buraidah23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah23" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7470/15053627843_f730b4898c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053032754" title="buraidah24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah24" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5609/15053032754_3fc8b9a15d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487791167" title="buraidah25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah25" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7497/15487791167_02f1abe95f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15674586472" title="buraidah26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah26" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/15674586472_eb52eb7e38.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487600448" title="buraidah27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah27" height="500" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/15487600448_9b81b9fdb9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Back in Qassim, Saudi Arabia</span></b><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15053032424" title="buraidah28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah28" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15053032424_848dca3e76.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487790837" title="buraidah29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah29" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/15487790837_882a83f9aa.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487600138" title="buraidah30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah30" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5615/15487600138_a025304172.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487600018" title="buraidah31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah31" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7487/15487600018_d625c36bfe.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15671073611" title="buraidah32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah32" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/15671073611_9eae7ae6e0.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15674585722" title="buraidah33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah33" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5613/15674585722_31f5177817.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15673007535" title="buraidah34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah34" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7467/15673007535_492045fafe.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15674585532" title="buraidah35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah35" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7479/15674585532_f816bc95ef.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15674585382" title="buraidah36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah36" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/15674585382_e34152b48b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15649268276" title="buraidah37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah37" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7548/15649268276_f056661792.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15649417796" title="IMG_6631 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_6631" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/15649417796_40467383f2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487114159" title="buraidah38 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah38" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/15487114159_fc3f76c3dc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487598998" title="buraidah39 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah39" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/15487598998_40084b5a15.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15673006905" title="buraidah40 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah40" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15673006905_26d388c52e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487113819" title="buraidah41 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah41" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/15487113819_0ec1314c6a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487598628" title="buraidah42 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah42" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/15487598628_beab53cea6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487113659" title="buraidah43 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah43" height="500" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7551/15487113659_bb267f517b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15673006335" title="buraidah44 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraidah44" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3944/15673006335_1d2a22cd3b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487826417" title="IMG_6750 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_6750" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3938/15487826417_0bfafa39db.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15649308586" title="IMG_6749 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_6749" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/15649308586_c25b4e8e37.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15487825847" title="IMG_6757 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_6757" height="375" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/15487825847_71608c24b5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-17527463443538709532014-10-06T05:48:00.001+09:002014-10-31T22:01:46.976+09:00Snapshots of BuraidahLast month I took the plunge and headed over to Saudi Arabia to live for a while. I have found myself working in Buraidah, a provincial city in Al Qassim. It is known for being the heartland of Wahhabism - an ultraconservative form of Islam - so as you can imagine things are rather different here compared to anywhere else I have lived. It is the polar opposite of South Korea.<br />
<br />
Have a look for yourself...<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427346006" title="buraydah01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah01" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/15427346006_aa38bb100d_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263812688" title="buraydah02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah02" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15263812688_e6615d1f8c_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427147946" title="buraydah03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah03" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/15427147946_95d36d7630_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It gets extremely hot. Daytime highs of 40ºC in September. I'm glad I wasn't here in the summer.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15450083642" title="buraydah04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah04" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2949/15450083642_278981b3f5_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15450435475" title="buraydah05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah05" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3933/15450435475_4709a47865_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263727800" title="buraydah06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah06" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/15263727800_c975da849b_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
You don't see many people in the streets as it is way too hot. Pretty much everybody drives except some migrant workers.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427186176" title="buraydah07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah07" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15427186176_f2a4e7f18d_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427360816" title="buraydah08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah08" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/15427360816_fa08b57cb8_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263733230" title="buraydah09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah09" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3930/15263733230_9b2e0a0b57_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427366716" title="buraydah10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah10" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15427366716_960d39c034_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15449921742" title="buraydah11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah11" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/15449921742_9e76050928_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427199426" title="buraydah12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah12" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15427199426_4baf436781_b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263678088" title="buraydah13 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah13" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/15263678088_303d97bc11_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263613660" title="buraydah14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah14" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3931/15263613660_3c598cc87e_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Hot sauce galore!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263651610" title="buraydah15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah15" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/15263651610_0966f2540e_z.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It can get a little dusty.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263593219" title="buraydah16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah16" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/15263593219_fdc4b5f2e1_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15450031982" title="buraydah17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah17" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3931/15450031982_f24ab10304_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15447289891" title="buraydah18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah18" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3936/15447289891_6045796b8a_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263605979" title="buraydah19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah19" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3927/15263605979_9f3f1b8f49_z.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15447300001" title="buraydah20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah20" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3936/15447300001_7434f2fc73.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263703929" title="buraydah21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah21" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3929/15263703929_9673c4e8d2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The sunsets here are unparalleled. Every night I take a walk over to my gym as the sun goes down.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427319136" title="buraydah22 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah22" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2950/15427319136_d75500d8f2_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263709029" title="buraydah23 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah23" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15263709029_682b437cd2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Believe it or not, this is a new build.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15447327071" title="buraydah24 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah24" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/15447327071_cce88b830b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The malls here have Mango and Zara. All the women shopping in the malls are wearing the niqab. It's bizarre to know that they are shopping for clothes that are in complete contrast to what women are expected to wear in the streets.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15450499635" title="buraydah25 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah25" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3933/15450499635_be6817ee64.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Eid. The only people I see walking the streets are Indians and this rogue fellow.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15450402955" title="buraydah26 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah26" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15450402955_7ace09a28b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263796300" title="buraydah27 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah27" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3930/15263796300_b5b0efef10.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Arabic numerals. Even the speed signs are in Arabic. Well, there are no tourist visas after all.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263728909" title="buraydah28 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah28" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2946/15263728909_e0d6528d6e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15447344761" title="buraydah29 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah29" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3930/15447344761_31aaa4d9c9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Junk food rules in Saudi Arabia. I try to avoid these places at all costs. I confess I did try out Little Caesars. It is not the same as in the States unfortunately.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263789048" title="buraydah30 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah30" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/15263789048_70e4ec98e6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The eighties called. They want their ring pulls back!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15450165632" title="buraydah31 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah31" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3932/15450165632_a675e890b6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Pumpin' vibes.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427437726" title="buraydah32 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15427437726_03ba0f4947_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There are so many mosques you can hear the call to prayer being announced from every angle. They are not synchronised so it gets a little intense and disorientating.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15427332536" title="buraydah33 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah33" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3930/15427332536_3de6b6ed9a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
If it's too hot to carry your groceries, just take the trolley. There are some guys who do the rounds and collect them.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263709870" title="buraydah34 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah34" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3936/15263709870_bc6e7e91f2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Clouds!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15263852797" title="buraydah35 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah35" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/15263852797_b7873df2ea.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15447355161" title="buraydah36 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah36" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15447355161_f49b93abd8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/15449831992" title="buraydah37 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="buraydah37" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/15449831992_e3a2bb7f99.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Stay cool. Stick a rug on it.<br />
<div>
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<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-60287030277202193462014-06-10T00:15:00.000+09:002014-06-11T02:44:39.397+09:00Naejangsan Ride and Hike (3 days)This whole adventure was Sean's doing. It was a trip he had previously done in February, during the winter. Billy and I had a few days off so we thought we would bring our bikes down to Jeollanam-Do and punish ourselves.<br />
<br />
This three day trip involved two days of cycling and one whole day of cycling. Day one we rode from Sean's place <a href="http://damyanghouse.blogspot.kr/" target="_blank">"Damyang House"</a>, which is located in a small farming village next to Gwangju Eco Lake Park to Naejangsan (49km). Day two we hiked the whole mountain rim over six peaks. It was an all day hike. Day three would involve looping back round the north side of the park back to Sean's place via Damyang town.<br />
<br />
Let's not forget day zero! Billy and I took the bus from Seoul and arrived into Gwangju early evening. The first stop was one of my favourite galmeggi-sal restaurants. I love the food in Jeollanam-Do and miss it outrageously! It's always a good idea to eat a ton of food the night before you ride. I mean, seriously, what is the point of exercise? It's so you can stuff your face.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195307068" title="naejangsan003 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan003" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5233/14195307068_c8ac5c8886.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381911055" title="naejangsan001 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan001" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5156/14381911055_2c98751cc8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195307078" title="naejangsan002 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan002" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14195307078_92c22196d4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
That is some funky, old, sour kimchi right there. Mouthwatering stuff.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378580321" title="naejangsan004 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan004" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/14378580321_595a5a3f54.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
One of the best things about staying at Damyang House is the fire pit. You can't beat some drinks around a campfire -some beer, some whisky- the perfect way to sabotage your own ride!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358821126" title="naejangsan005 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan005" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5156/14358821126_8c7d033c23.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We got a late start on Thursday. You see campfires have a strange effect on people, keeping them up until the early hours! We all woke up feeling pretty rough, but having a bamboo forest teeming with wildfire made emerging from our collective hangover much easier.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195478817" title="naejangsan006 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan006" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14195478817_1bcacf1811.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Meet Gouda! The coolest dog on the planet.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380485482" title="naejangsan007 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan007" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14380485482_5d7961fcae.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Our bikes: a Donhou, a Bianchi and a Giant.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY ONE: Damyang to Naejangsan (49km)</span></b><br />
<br />
On day one we rode for 49km. There are a couple of climbs totalling 895 metres elevation gain. The ride only took four hours, but we were a little worse for wear from the night before, so it was by no means easy. The route follows the 887 all the way to Damyang town, then you head onto highway 15 until Bukhamyeon, which is by the south entrance of Naejangsan national park. From here you head north on the 49 up the large climb then follow signs to Naejangsan.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380451842" title="Damyang to Naejangsan by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Damyang to Naejangsan" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5508/14380451842_213396af7e.jpg" width="326" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195400979" title="Elevation Day One by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Elevation Day One" height="407" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5547/14195400979_816deb3ed9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380945034" title="naejangsan008 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan008" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14380945034_2f8d05dcc2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380485362" title="naejangsan009 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan009" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/14380485362_92695d67ab.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The 887. Breezing along just fine, the mountains barely in sight.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380485262" title="naejangsan010 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan010" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14380485262_5997edcab3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380944934" title="naejangsan011 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan011" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14380944934_b4973188dc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195281329" title="naejangsan012 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan012" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/14195281329_465f49fb8d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I quickly replaced my handlebar tape at the most inappropriate time...as we were leaving. I went for a summer time vibe!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381910605" title="naejangsan013 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan013" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2899/14381910605_54b4d5100c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
That summer time vibe got dampened pretty quickly! This was the first of much roadkill on the ground. We saw plenty of dead birds, chipmunks and snakes. We even saw a dead cat. Damn those cars!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380944724" title="naejangsan014 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan014" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/14380944724_9cd3c7aff2.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
After Bukhamyeon -on road 49- the mountains and the trees close in on you as the approach the longest climb of the ride.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402085653" title="naejangsan015 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan015" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/14402085653_bbee302d1e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195306608" title="naejangsan016 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan016" height="169" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2912/14195306608_90143eddd8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358820756" title="naejangsan017 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan017" height="295" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14358820756_1bbae4636f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Switchbacks! Hairpin bends!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380485062" title="naejangsan018 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan018" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/14380485062_e199fe6f59.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195306478" title="naejangsan019 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan019" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5198/14195306478_9bed78e98d.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Almost at the top Sean!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195306448" title="naejangsan020 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan020" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/14195306448_17ba076013.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The first view towards Naejangsan national park.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195280959" title="naejangsan021 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan021" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5316/14195280959_1b0ff80002.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Jeollabuk-Do...the northern Jeolla province.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195306388" title="naejangsan022 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan022" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/14195306388_9e83af94a8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
For some reason they put a lot of money into developing the 49, but nobody uses it. We had this whole 4-lane highway to ourselves. It was odd.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195280939" title="naejangsan023 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan023" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5112/14195280939_f25540f11f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The downhill begins...and it was one of the best downhills I've ever ridden: lots of twisting and turning and stunning views at every corner!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381910265" title="naejangsan024 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan024" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5314/14381910265_e3270aa2e4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378579731" title="naejangsan025 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan025" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14378579731_4d1a8de63f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195306268" title="naejangsan026 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan026" height="364" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2939/14195306268_b8922518f8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195351450" title="naejangsan027 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan027" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14195351450_9206d85b38.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"IT'S LIKE THE LOST WOOOOOOOOORLD, MAN!!!"<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195351440" title="naejangsan028 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan028" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3870/14195351440_c19d577976.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Sean, aka 독스리 finds the perfect momento to take home.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381910165" title="naejangsan029 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan029" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5031/14381910165_442967554b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
My personal favourite was the bike/penis combo sculpture - both adventurous and good for fertility.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358820406" title="naejangsan030 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan030" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14358820406_85b1ed8ea6.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
동동주(dong dong ju)... It would be rude not to sample some of the local stuff! And so it begins!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195351370" title="naejangsan031 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan031" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/14195351370_7790595a3f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Duck grilling!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380944234" title="naejangsan032 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan032" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5237/14380944234_3a4e72c6d8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Cheongguk jang!<br />
<br />
There is a huge abandoned hotel by the park. It's long past it's glory days. Whoever is planning on redeveloping this is out of their mind. It is far beyond repair. There were huge holes in the concrete on most of the floors.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380944134" title="naejangsan033 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan033" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/14380944134_dcd56b464f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378579531" title="naejangsan034 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan034" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14378579531_49759fca3b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358820276" title="naejangsan035 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan035" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5475/14358820276_3dbd258c87.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195351120" title="naejangsan036 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan036" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5074/14195351120_35c0caf24b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402085243" title="naejangsan037 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan037" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2926/14402085243_5fea374d5d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We stayed at a cheap minbak with garish lights. It only cost 30,000 KRW per night for the room. Having planned to only have a few drinks we got a little carried away. We started off at the local CU mart then headed back to the minbak. 6 hours later and several more trips back to the store we eventually hit the hay around 3am. Key conditioning for the hike, of course! Morons!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>DAY TWO: Naejangsan hike</b></span><br />
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The dreaded 곱등히 (cave crickets). The blighters were EVERYWHERE out doors. The road was covered in them either hopping around or just splattered. They were huge, but not even close to to the size of the ones we saw on <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2012/08/japandemonium-pt-1-tsushima-island.html" target="_blank">Tsushima Island in Japan in 2012.</a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195280459" title="naejangsan038 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan038" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14195280459_035c14f6f2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380484462" title="naejangsan039 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan039" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14380484462_824c114a76.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195351000" title="naejangsan040 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan040" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5071/14195351000_2e8c3e8f40.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Glorious!<br />
<br />
The trail head is about 2km from the village. There is a shuttle bus that costs 1,000 KRW that takes you right into the park, but we just walked it.<br />
<br />
The start of the hike is a very steep trail up through the lush forest all the way up to the rim of the mountain range. Naejangsan is a range of peaks shaped like a horse shoe. It is hands down one of the most beautiful national parks in Korea yet we barely saw anybody up on those trails. Apparently it is incredibly popular in Autumn when all the Maple leaves turn red, but nobody cares for it the rest of the year round. It's criminal.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380943904" title="naejangsan041 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan041" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5535/14380943904_0cfe7ed658.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819986" title="naejangsan042 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan042" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/14358819986_a2aa803d1f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819966" title="naejangsan043 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan043" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3885/14358819966_557ebf1e61.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381909685" title="naejangsan044 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan044" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3893/14381909685_699d6c352d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The first proper glimpse of the mountain ridge.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195305738" title="naejangsan045 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan045" height="226" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/14195305738_bf643b1d0b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
You can't see much at the actual first peak, but right after it is an opening on top of a massive cliff with incredible panoramic views. It's at this moment when you realise just how far you are going to have to hike. Yikes!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380943744" title="naejangsan046 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan046" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5199/14380943744_79c646155f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"We've got to go all the way over there...and back?!"<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380484122" title="naejangsan047 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan047" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/14380484122_83bd806ce6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195280269" title="naejangsan048 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan048" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14195280269_0c30f8b5ea.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380943594" title="naejangsan049 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan049" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14380943594_d4868f719c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819756" title="naejangsan050 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan050" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/14358819756_aceb442b74.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819746" title="naejangsan051 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan051" height="374" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14358819746_7b0fe97f3d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
신선봉 Shinseongbong, the highest peak.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195305538" title="naejangsan052 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan052" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5495/14195305538_5ac0dfcf9d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195477357" title="naejangsan053 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan053" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14195477357_5ce660f8c7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195305348" title="naejangsan054 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan054" height="203" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14195305348_e84eaede9e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195305318" title="naejangsan055 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan055" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3893/14195305318_8bf057f41a.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380483842" title="naejangsan056 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan056" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14380483842_b66e54a528.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402084533" title="naejangsan057 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan057" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14402084533_8e5feb2627.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819576" title="naejangsan058 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan058" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2924/14358819576_3ab47a27fd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381909225" title="naejangsan059 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan059" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/14381909225_b7f5dc2f2e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819436" title="naejangsan060 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan060" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/14358819436_dc96bca3a6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378578581" title="naejangsan061 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan061" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3891/14378578581_8797d1bc01.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
At this point the trail seemed to disappear, then we realised we had to climb up some rocks and walk along the top of this epic humongous cliff. I wasn't amused.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380483662" title="naejangsan062 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan062" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/14380483662_2a2d55c593.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380483652" title="naejangsan063 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan063" height="182" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14380483652_143e545196.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381909015" title="naejangsan064 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan064" height="163" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2898/14381909015_70e8f8d1da.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380943214" title="naejangsan065 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan065" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5312/14380943214_ae471864f1.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195477057" title="naejangsan066 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan066" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2916/14195477057_bdb5300fcc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Going down? Rope. Not as bad as the stairs!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195476987" title="naejangsan067 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan067" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2924/14195476987_8b6bfd752a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
And now for the stairs.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195304918" title="naejangsan068 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan068" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14195304918_3c2814b904.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Unfortunately the most scenic peaks would be completely inaccessible if it weren't for these horrendously steep stairs. My knees are weeping just thinking about them.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195350060" title="naejangsan069 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan069" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14195350060_f25e034e38.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358819086" title="naejangsan070 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan070" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2900/14358819086_b3d5f2f2d5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"NO MORE STAIRS!"<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195279599" title="naejangsan071 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan071" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3915/14195279599_ae920646a2.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402084043" title="naejangsan072 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan072" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14402084043_0ab69b3038.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
더덕 동동주 Deodeok dong dong ju - the local style which is made using deodeok, a root similar to ginseng, but which tastes far nicer!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380483262" title="naejangsan073 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan073" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3843/14380483262_1f734b6e8f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402083903" title="naejangsan074 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan074" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14402083903_aa07316e52.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402083873" title="naejangsan075 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan075" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14402083873_c48a521501.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358818766" title="naejangsan076 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan076" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14358818766_91303a144b.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378578041" title="naejangsan077 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan077" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5234/14378578041_7f4668e5f4.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381908625" title="naejangsan078 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan078" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5191/14381908625_ea999dd884.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380483052" title="naejangsan079 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan079" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14380483052_1a2fa03e9c.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380942734" title="naejangsan080 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan080" height="195" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14380942734_83d39f72db.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378577861" title="naejangsan081 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan081" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/14378577861_e49e10b227.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I would get a coffee, but....<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195476407" title="naejangsan082 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan082" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3837/14195476407_5aede95f13.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We finished the night with some 닭토리탕 dalktori tang - a spicy chicken soup. Protein please! We promptly passed out in the minbak. No hijinks tonight.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY THREE: Naejangsan to Damyang (69km)</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
The first 8km are pretty decent heading north out of the National Park past Naejang reservoir. Then you head along the 29, where the first and biggest ascent starts (about 8km of climbing, be warned). You follow this road all the way to Damyang town. From there the loop closes as you join the 887 and head back towards Damyang House by Gwangju Eco Lake.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195443677" title="Naejangsan to Damyang by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Naejangsan to Damyang" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3904/14195443677_386f258d49.jpg" width="243" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195597927" title="Elevation Day Three by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Elevation Day Three" height="408" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/14195597927_b13c17c656.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378577791" title="naejangsan083 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan083" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/14378577791_c663a7634f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381908465" title="naejangsan084 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan084" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14381908465_9793ffb86c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Naejang reservoir.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195279049" title="naejangsan085 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan085" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5546/14195279049_c82b22ccfe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
순두부 찌개 sundubu jjigae. This cost 10,000 KRW and it was a very large serving. I couldn't finish mine. It was chock full of clams and an entire crab. The side dishes were also off the hook! The restaurant was just by the turn off onto the 29. But be warned, for some reason they haven't signed the turn of onto the 29 when you are exiting from Naejangsan National Park. Keep your eyes peeled. There are some marts on either side of the turn off and a big red love motel on the 29.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195279019" title="naejangsan086 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan086" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14195279019_762432385b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380942554" title="naejangsan087 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan087" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3911/14380942554_5e188aeb20.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195304388" title="naejangsan088 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan088" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3857/14195304388_249ce02b66.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
And so the climbing begins...again!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195278949" title="naejangsan089 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan089" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14195278949_b140b20402.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195349360" title="naejangsan090 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan090" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14195349360_18f2b89a23.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402083383" title="naejangsan091 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan091" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14402083383_986deb0b0f.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195304298" title="naejangsan092 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan092" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2908/14195304298_aa2c6e8289.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378577501" title="naejangsan093 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan093" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14378577501_92b00e05b0.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195475997" title="naejangsan094 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan094" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3915/14195475997_89e6ff9221.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
One of many dead chipmunks on the road.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195349190" title="naejangsan095 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan095" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3861/14195349190_db28c8ed45.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358818166" title="naejangsan096 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan096" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14358818166_4895ee8b93.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"Eat more Butterbeans!"<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358818206" title="naejangsan097 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan097" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14358818206_b940d70170.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195475897" title="naejangsan098 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan098" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3845/14195475897_c3dcb10f1c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
"SNAAAAAAKE!!! Oh, it's dead"<br />
<br />
Sean saw a much larger live snake, but I missed it. British people don't have the eyes for snake hunting.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195349030" title="naejangsan099 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan099" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/14195349030_ba4b974b5f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I hippified my bike for a little while, until a downhill destroyed the flowers.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378577131" title="naejangsan100 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan100" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5195/14378577131_41166a9a60.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
"HIYAAAA!'<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380482352" title="naejangsan101 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan101" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5574/14380482352_962a8aae23.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381907875" title="naejangsan102 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14381907875_659f209bdf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="naejangsan102"></a>
<br />
Back in Jeollanam-Do!<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381907875" title="naejangsan102 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380482282" title="naejangsan103 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan103" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5539/14380482282_783dc09e6a.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
"COOOEY!!!"<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380942084" title="naejangsan104 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan104" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14380942084_05af76d4d3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
A massive toad just crawling across the road. A minor miracle that it didn't get squished.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14402082763" title="naejangsan105 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan105" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14402082763_9dbcb4fa56.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14380482132" title="naejangsan106 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan106" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5490/14380482132_1159d15ff8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195278249" title="naejangsan107 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan107" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14195278249_c66733d56d.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14378576881" title="naejangsan108 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan108" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14378576881_9e2b346944.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195475587" title="naejangsan109 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan109" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14195475587_fc5662319a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
추월산 Chuwolsan.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195278209" title="naejangsan110 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan110" height="375" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3920/14195278209_99287e6e1b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195278199" title="naejangsan111 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan111" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/14195278199_78f3ba34d3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Back at Damyang House we had a celebratory beer and compared farmer tans.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358817496" title="naejangsan112 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan112" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14358817496_a17c8bfc5c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14381907315" title="naejangsan113 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan113" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14381907315_de785427de.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Then the barbecue! Pork tenderloin and samgyupsal. It took several hours to prepare and just ten minutes for us ravenous animals to wolf it down...<br />
<br />
...then more beer.<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14358817336" title="naejangsan114 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan114" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5038/14358817336_c92f4038a1.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195303378" title="naejangsan115 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan115" height="500" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/14195303378_1653f4ed48.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
It's pretty hard to tear yourself away from Sean and Jojo's house. It's definitely my favourite spot in Korea. They are hiring it out as a pension. Check out their website for more information: <a href="http://damyanghouse.blogspot.kr/" target="_blank">damyanghouse.blogspot</a> .<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14195303278" title="naejangsan116 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="naejangsan116" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/14195303278_b23c6911c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Bye bye Jojo and Gouda!<br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-86952696782361462052014-06-02T21:37:00.000+09:002014-06-02T21:44:16.102+09:00Bugaksan and Namsan Loop (32km - Seoul ride)This ride is not particularly long, at only around 32km, but it is a real bugger because of the elevation which totals 967 metres.<br />
<br />
I prepared this one as a gift to Sean who was up visiting from Damyang. After a tough Friday night this was to be our hangover cure - an act of masochism. One of my favourite things about this ride is that it takes you past most of the big tourist sites in Seoul en route.<br />
<br />
The first time I rode over Bugaksan I wanted to puke as I had not ridden all winter and I was bent hell out of shape. Recently I've been doing a little more riding than usual, but not a great deal, however I have been riding over Namsan regularly, so the hill practice meant that Bugaksan wasn't as bad this time round.<br />
<br />
We started the ride outside CU mart in Haebangchon as it is right by my house and it makes a decent starting point. We headed off around the US military base via Noksapyeong and Samgakji stations. From there we headed up north towards Seoul Station and Namdaemun gate.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14142070727" title="Bugaksan/Namsan Map by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Bugaksan/Namsan Map" height="762" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/14142070727_bae0ab6d71_b.jpg" width="448" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14348845393" title="Bugaksan/Namsan elevation by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="Bugaksan/Namsan elevation" height="379" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2911/14348845393_d7d949b6da.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14325306195" title="bugak01 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak01" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2924/14325306195_e5c390aedd.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Outside Seoul Station<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14325305745" title="bugak02 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak02" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2914/14325305745_1e65f9e2e5.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138692690" title="bugak03 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak03" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14138692690_0b342b0697.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Namdaemun Gate. From here we headed towards Myeongdong before turning left and heading straight north towards Jongak and Gyeongbuk palace.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138652959" title="bugak04 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak04" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5478/14138652959_c3ca1bc8b6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The Korean Village People<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138692290" title="bugak05 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak05" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14138692290_a1b9b5e23b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Jonggak<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138651168" title="bugak06 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak06" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2913/14138651168_1469526cdb.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Jongno Tower<br />
<br />
Once we got towards Anguk Station we made our way through Samcheong-Dong. Instead of heading up through Samcheong tunnel we turned right and headed up past Waryong Park (와룡공원) where we took a short break.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138787007" title="bugak07 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak07" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5593/14138787007_f2738e2de5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14325305535" title="bugak08 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak08" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14325305535_47251b83b2.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Waryong Park.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14345498653" title="bugak09 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak09" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/14345498653_69183c4f3b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14321975351" title="bugak10 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak10" height="500" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14321975351_c90ddd1fed.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Shortly after Waryong Park (와룡공원) is a great winding downhill with some nice switchbacks. At the bottom of this stretch after a couple of minutes we took a sharp left by Suwolam Temple (수월암) and headed up a ridiculously steep hill until the first right turn. From here you keep climbing through a pretty wealthy neighbourhood which hosts many ambassador's residences. Eventually you will hit the Bugak Skyway.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138691690" title="bugak11 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak11" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14138691690_93a1642f61.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138650158" title="bugak12 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak12" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5556/14138650158_58bd849f5a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138691250" title="bugak14 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak14" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/14138691250_62a890840b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138688870" title="bugak15 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak15" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14138688870_e5d744eac2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Time to rehydrate.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14325304515" title="bugak16 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak16" height="640" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/14325304515_3faebe8c58_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14325306675" title="bugak17 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak17" height="375" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2908/14325306675_a7aa24fc97.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14345497683" title="bugak18 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak18" height="283" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/14345497683_5520fe16f6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14345497343" title="bugak19 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak19" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14345497343_0252a234e0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There's a sweet CU mart and a fantastic viewpoint at Palgakjeong Park (팔각정 공원) more or less at at the top of the Bugak Skyway. We replenished ourselves with Gatorade and beer. From here it is just the most epic twisting downhill all the way until you reach Buam-Dong. Somewhere towards the bottom of this hill is a 3 way junction. Take a left here as it will lead you across a bridge and onto Inwangsan Road (인왕산로) which is fantastic to ride along. It eventually comes out by Sajik park, where you can take a left which will bring you back to Gyeongbuk Palace and Gwanghwamun.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14324630534" title="bugak20 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak20" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/14324630534_6ac90d6236.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14138688180" title="bugak21 by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img alt="bugak21" height="375" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5116/14138688180_568aa310b8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I stopped taking pictures after Gwanghwamun because the traffic started to get a little out of hand. We cycled down past City Hall where we turned left towards Myeongdong and then west past Chungmuro Station. Keep heading down Toeigye-ro 퇴계로.<br />
<br />
From here you want to head past Dongdae-ipgu Station (동대입구역) and past Dongguk University until you get to the Banyan Hotel. Here you turn right into Namsan Park and keep on climbing. It's a 2km climb, although I don't know the exact elevation. The downhill is steep and the road quality is not fantastic so hold on tight and beware of the speed bumps.<br />
<br />
At the bottom of the hill head home in whatever direction takes you home, which in my case is left towards Haebangchon, where I no doubt replenish my lost calories with a dirty pizza.<br />
<br />
The ride took us just over 2 hours of actual cycling with breaks on top of that. I think we spent about 3 hours on the road as wee took quite a few breaks to soak up both the views and water from our bottles.Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-12095428726406455852014-05-29T20:11:00.000+09:002014-05-29T20:12:22.869+09:00Namsan Cycle Loop (via Samgakji)I've not been cycling nearly as much in Seoul as I used to in Gwangju, but I'm trying to make a bit more of an effort. I've started making a few routes. This is my local:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/14110595338" title="Samgakji Namsan Cycle Loop by Alasdair Couch, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14110595338_aeb602a9d8_z.jpg" width="482" height="508" alt="Samgakji Namsan Cycle Loop"></a><br />
<br />
It's about 15km and has about 392 metres of elevation. One of the hills is brutal, from the back of the military base up to Haebangchon Ogeori (5-way junction).<br />
<br />
You set off south to Noksapyeong station, then head west towards Samgakji. From there you head north and loop around the military base to the back of Haebangchon. This is where the beast of an uphill starts. Once you get to Haebangchon Ogeori, head onto the Namsan ring road and go clockwise round towards Chungmuro. From there you head up past Dongguk University until you get to the entrance of Namsan Park. Here you will start a 2km climb to the top of Namsan. Once you're up and over Namsan you'll end up back on the ring road. Take a left and head anti-clockwise until you end back in Haebangchon.<br />
<br />
This isn't a ridiculously hard ride, but it will test you. There's quite a bit of elevation for such a short ride. There's a lot of nice cruising down mellow inclines so it's not all gloom!<br />
<br />
I will be rocking this route most mornings from now on.Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-44457716115642065342014-03-04T14:39:00.001+09:002014-03-04T14:39:13.532+09:00Odaesan 오대산 - winter hiking.We were initially planning to do a winter hike at Seoraksan, but due to some extreme snowfalls on the east coast it got shut down for two weeks. I believe a lot of people got stranded up there. As we were hell bent on doing a winter hike Sung Hoon suggested that we visit Odaesan 오대산 instead.<br />
<br />
I met up with Sung Hoon and Ian at East Seoul bus terminal (Gangbyeon) on Saturday morning. We set off at 7am. All the buses were packed with day hikers hitting up the east coast.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920090843/" title="odaesan01 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan01" height="320" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3762/12920090843_7ab55fd10d_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Soap on a stick at East Seoul bus terminal. Hygiene fail.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920407194/" title="odaesan02 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan02" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3783/12920407194_5ce5164a76.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
When we arrive at Jinbu it was dramatically colder than in Seoul and there was a lot of snow.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919978875/" title="odaesan03 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan03" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3704/12919978875_9230624aa6.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920074513/" title="odaesan04 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan04" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3718/12920074513_0f1c05b6c3.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920073793/" title="odaesan05 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan05" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7294/12920073793_ba6860a165.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Boobi Boobi!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919977175/" title="odaesan06 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan06" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3740/12919977175_8c64ac2f9b_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920072543/" title="odaesan07 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan07" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3805/12920072543_718d5c66b7_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920389234/" title="odaesan08 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan08" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3792/12920389234_c1a68a72c3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919975185/" title="odaesan09 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan09" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3771/12919975185_02a6708448_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919974655/" title="odaesan10 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan10" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2880/12919974655_a3bdd8a631_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919973715/" title="odaesan11 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan11" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7393/12919973715_d03c83c44a_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919994445/" title="odaesan12 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan12" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7386/12919994445_4470fe6130.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920404804/" title="odaesan14 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan14" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7345/12920404804_51ceb82305.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919973095/" title="odaesan15 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan15" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3775/12919973095_7bb7bbcdf6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920086683/" title="odaesan16 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan16" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7459/12920086683_19e75e07db.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920386384/" title="odaesan17 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan17" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3709/12920386384_f0db1f86b4_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920385484/" title="odaesan18 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan18" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2841/12920385484_4d4b3b4427_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920403254/" title="odaesan19 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan19" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2806/12920403254_43c761a499.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920384694/" title="odaesan20 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan20" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2826/12920384694_16213c576f_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919989225/" title="odaesan21 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan21" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3716/12919989225_6c4dc665ea.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919970425/" title="odaesan22 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan22" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7390/12919970425_14b510f0d7.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
These bags of crisps were ready to explode. I'm surprised we didn't lose half the pack to the sky gods on opening.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920382274/" title="odaesan24 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan24" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3707/12920382274_a2183350cd_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
We had a snack break half way up the mountain. There were a lot of birds scavenging for nuts and snacks. One lone man started feeding them from the palm of his hand. We copied them!<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920401464/" title="odaesan26 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan26" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7420/12920401464_19cfa60536.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920083743/" title="odaesan27 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan27" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7363/12920083743_903721ffee.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Then everybody joined in!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919966505/" title="odaesan28 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan28" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2884/12919966505_0fc9403599_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919965915/" title="odaesan29 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan29" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7360/12919965915_ce53a278a5_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919964435/" title="odaesan31 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan31" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7456/12919964435_5701b9b3da_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919963625/" title="odaesan32 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan32" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2832/12919963625_bb0c5c7150_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920083203/" title="odaesan30 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan30" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7359/12920083203_51b72c2c5c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920060003/" title="odaesan33 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan33" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3735/12920060003_4ab7d00524_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The climb became pretty steep and the steps, packed with snow, became useless. Even with crampons it was difficult to avoid slipping down the slope. The sun was quite bright so at points the snow was pretty slushy.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920059093/" title="odaesan34 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan34" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7356/12920059093_845437b9f6.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920082583/" title="odaesan35 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan35" height="267" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3673/12920082583_3520a331fb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The reward.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920374854/" title="odaesan36 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan36" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7307/12920374854_3ef03d96fa_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Dinner time.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919960215/" title="odaesan37 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan37" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2889/12919960215_a68a424495_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There was a queue at the top for photos with the Birobong 비로봉 stone. 1,563 metres up. Needless to say we got in the queue as well. It's a cultural experience. It had to be done!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920081873/" title="odaesan38 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan38" height="266" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2893/12920081873_b7f8b23fb7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920081103/" title="odaesan39 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan39" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7401/12920081103_c1f107131a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919959305/" title="odaesan40 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan40" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7367/12919959305_1c91634af0_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920056073/" title="odaesan41 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan41" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7405/12920056073_05448b55ef_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Two burks and a birch.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920371534/" title="odaesan42 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan42" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3675/12920371534_3ec1dfdb59_c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Poses were all the rage. This guy had his on lockdown.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920396924/" title="odaesan43 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan43" height="238" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3705/12920396924_31cdf9d952.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919983155/" title="odaesan44 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan44" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7310/12919983155_c0c5ddb5e9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919956365/" title="odaesan45 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan45" height="640" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7340/12919956365_1bb6c33827_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920052963/" title="odaesan46 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan46" height="640" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3736/12920052963_00ab755743_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
We missed a trick here. Loads of people brought plastic bags and mini sleds and slid back down the mountain. I've never seen middle aged Korean men look so happy. They were whooping with joy as they zoomed past us, on occasion nearly taking us down with them.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920052163/" title="odaesan47 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan47" height="640" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3683/12920052163_191a1e54b9_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919982325/" title="odaesan48 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan48" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2869/12919982325_794429670e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920077653/" title="odaesan49 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan49" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7383/12920077653_f92ae9fb76.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920051483/" title="odaesan50 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan50" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7298/12920051483_89dde377ca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
LOBSTER FACE! A combination of wind chill and sunburn. The joys of descending from Scotsmen.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919952935/" title="odaesan51 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan51" height="640" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7365/12919952935_88d37b8a67_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919980075/" title="odaesan52 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan52" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2849/12919980075_5bcb814c5e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919951765/" title="odaesan53 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan53" height="640" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3748/12919951765_9f5942f573_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
More sliding. More envy.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919950925/" title="odaesan54 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan54" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3780/12919950925_dfb47739b1.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12919949825/" title="odaesan55 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan55" height="640" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7451/12919949825_a9293c516d_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
A frosty fog rolled in.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920045953/" title="odaesan56 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan56" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7392/12920045953_9c6b3854d5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920045143/" title="odaesan57 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan57" height="640" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2812/12920045143_157684d063_z.jpg" width="480" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920392524/" title="odaesan58 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan58" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7412/12920392524_08a46944b6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
We bought some Korean jerky for the ride home. I'm not sure why on earth they were using Ronaldo to advertise it. He's not on the labelling. The supermarket obviously thought it was a great idea. I guess it worked!<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920360984/" title="odaesan59 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan59" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3700/12920360984_74f13f77dc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Local Pyeongchang 평창 makkoli. Pretty good stuff, even the corn flavoured one on the right...and no aspartame thank god!<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12920042613/" title="odaesan60 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="odaesan60" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7383/12920042613_d5d7096ca1.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
Fully prepped for the journey home.<br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-14023462784850128562014-03-04T11:51:00.000+09:002014-03-04T11:54:25.497+09:00Fukuoka, Japan - 2 days with a fold up bike.It has taken me a while to pop this post up. Back in December my company paid for me to go on a two day trip to Fukuoka, Japan to get my visa sorted at the Korean consulate. I did this trip before in 2011 by ferry. This time I flew from Incheon airport and borrowed Gibby's fold up bike - a Dahon.<br />
<br />
Despite being December, Fukuoka was in full autumnal swing. It was also pretty warm compared to Seoul. I didn't even take a jacket.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875741794/" title="Fukuoka02 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka02" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7296/12875741794_64e9b70aa2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The flight took me over <a href="http://www.couchonwheels.com/2012/08/japandemonium-pt-1-tsushima-island.html" target="_blank">Tsushima Island (known as Daema-Do 대마도 in Korea)</a>. I previously went on a cycle trip here in 2012 with Jenny and Sean. It has some beastly mountains for cycling, but in contrast it doesn't look at all intimidating from above.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875741634/" title="Fukuoka03 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka03" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2839/12875741634_2c2d98d2f5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Fukuoka is an extremely cycle friendly city. I spoke to a local who seemed to disagree, but I imagine that he hasn't tried cycling in London or Seoul. Bicycles has such a strong presence in this city which is evident in the abundance of designated bicycle parking spots, such as this underground car park.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875742174/" title="Fukuoka01 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka01" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3748/12875742174_d5d6594d73.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
To ensure that I could get Gibby's fold up bike on the plane I bought this atrocious carrier bag for it. Personally I'm not a fan of the Union Jack, however as I was borrowing this bicycle from a Yank - and with myself being British - I felt this was a fitting gift in exchange for the loan of his bike. Remember: "a little goes a long way". I'm pretty sure Gibby will cover this up with his native stars and stripes. I'm telling you the diplomatic fall out will be intense.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875740994/" title="Fukuoka04 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka04" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7331/12875740994_7572306c42.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Down by the canal.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875313145/" title="Fukuoka05 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka05" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3696/12875313145_095f197154.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Hakata style ramen down by the canal. It puts Korean ramen to shame.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875737894/" title="Fukuoka06 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka06" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3812/12875737894_43b924e68a.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
More parking.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875405163/" title="Fukuoka07 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka07" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3824/12875405163_e64e82ed7a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875735014/" title="Fukuoka08 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka08" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2840/12875735014_786da40d6f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Japanese hotel bathrooms are essentially glorified portapotties. They are all plastic and miniscule. It can be difficult to manoeuvre in there. One design aspect that I love is the cistern/sink combination. After you flush the toilet you can wash your hands in the clean water that will be used to fill the cistern. No wastage! I think this is brilliant design, although I am sure it seems bizarre to most Europeans.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875401683/" title="Fukuoka09 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka09" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7425/12875401683_96ab4def99.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875734004/" title="Fukuoka10 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka10" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3760/12875734004_53b73d2f66.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875400133/" title="Fukuoka12 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka12" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7381/12875400133_aef180f687.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I love the name of this bike.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875399353/" title="Fukuoka13 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka13" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3750/12875399353_7801b2d552.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<b>Ohori Park: </b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875396613/" title="Fukuoka14 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka14" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7403/12875396613_e25e979e65.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Gibby's Dahon fold up bicycle. I used to own one and highly recommend them.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875728244/" title="Fukuoka15 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka15" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7302/12875728244_e2556cfc10.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875727924/" title="Fukuoka16 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka16" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2820/12875727924_36d77f9e27.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Fukuoka Castle Ruins:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875295545/" title="Fukuoka18 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka18" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3809/12875295545_ddc6b864f6_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875386773/" title="Fukuoka19 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka19" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7332/12875386773_4be6a6b9f6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875289465/" title="Fukuoka20 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka20" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7302/12875289465_b44d4dfdfa.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875711384/" title="Fukuoka22 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka22" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3797/12875711384_e7d251db2d_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875285675/" title="Fukuoka23 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka23" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2818/12875285675_6f76129bd6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875376983/" title="Fukuoka24 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka24" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3676/12875376983_9b81980879.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Live to lurk,<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875283935/" title="Fukuoka25 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka25" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7368/12875283935_02ee8c315d.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<br />
This would be an amazing skate spot. A perfect transitioned tree planter.<br />
<br />
<b>SUSHI!!! </b><span style="font-weight: bold;">SUSHI!!! </span><span style="font-weight: bold;">SUSHI!!!</span><br />
<table border="0" bordercolor="#FFCC00" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 500px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875283125/" title="Fukuoka26 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka26" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2885/12875283125_1e152d2ac0_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875708044/" title="Fukuoka27 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka27" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7411/12875708044_c40b911cc1_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875374503/" title="Fukuoka28 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka28" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3741/12875374503_34e2364c7b_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875374083/" title="Fukuoka29 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka29" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7412/12875374083_5dde1b9136_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr><td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875279485/" title="Fukuoka30 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka30" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3762/12875279485_a0b85da8ba_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875725714/" title="Fukuoka31 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka31" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2864/12875725714_80dbacf502_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875370483/" title="Fukuoka32 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka32" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7379/12875370483_abc1a76262_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875367873/" title="Fukuoka33 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka33" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7322/12875367873_4a2405518e_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
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</tbody></table>
I couldn't get enough of this place. I ate far more than you can see. This place was cheap. The food was fresh and the English touch screen menu meant it really simple to order. I ate far too much. Next stop: the ramen stands by the fish market.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875700174/" title="Fukuoka34 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka34" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2879/12875700174_3058864f4e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875699654/" title="Fukuoka35 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka35" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7450/12875699654_53183855b2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875271625/" title="Fukuoka36 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka36" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2842/12875271625_7939dd809b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
There were plenty of places to choose from but I chose this place as I admired their style - photobombing my shot.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875271245/" title="Fukuoka37 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka37" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7384/12875271245_fc229658ac.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875362953/" title="Fukuoka38 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka38" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3757/12875362953_afb14413d5_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875361463/" title="Fukuoka40 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka40" height="500" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2835/12875361463_9263853f38.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
No bicycle parking? YEAH RIGHT!<br />
<br />
On my previous trip to Fukuoka in 2011 Jenny and I didn't visit many temples. I more than made up for it this time...<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875693584/" title="Fukuoka41 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka41" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7399/12875693584_f84ec4396b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875360553/" title="Fukuoka42 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka42" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3783/12875360553_42581e1010.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875359503/" title="Fukuoka44 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka44" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2828/12875359503_01865b7f70_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875689144/" title="Fukuoka48 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka48" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7435/12875689144_445d047271.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Factory/graveyard.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875356973/" title="Fukuoka49 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka49" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2825/12875356973_38e7ed776f_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875688054/" title="Fukuoka51 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka51" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7320/12875688054_806e9b0510.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875354983/" title="Fukuoka52 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka52" height="500" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2817/12875354983_e60562fc31.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
A healthy breakfast from the street. You've got to keep those calories up.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875260705/" title="Fukuoka53 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka53" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3773/12875260705_349cd7b92a_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875254945/" title="Fukuoka57 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka57" height="500" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7402/12875254945_2aeb75f05b.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
Wedding photos.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875679354/" title="Fukuoka58 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka58" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2818/12875679354_588d9b0e04.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875253305/" title="Fukuoka59 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka59" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7363/12875253305_c592527945_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875249345/" title="Fukuoka61 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka61" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3666/12875249345_6801194e86_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875341703/" title="Fukuoka62 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka62" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3730/12875341703_9175a6e59b_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875341073/" title="Fukuoka63 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka63" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7337/12875341073_77c35b0d3d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875247225/" title="Fukuoka64 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka64" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7297/12875247225_d790bf5ea9_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875339883/" title="Fukuoka65 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka65" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7431/12875339883_648a2e27d6_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875246255/" title="Fukuoka66 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka66" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7312/12875246255_0de35dab31.jpg" width="500" /></a>
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<table border="0" bordercolor="#FFCC00" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 500px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875338403/" title="Fukuoka68 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka68" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7394/12875338403_c2b72dfbb0_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875669474/" title="Fukuoka69 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka69" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7387/12875669474_a9d5708efe_n.jpg" width="245" /></a></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875244715/" title="Fukuoka70 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka70" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2855/12875244715_1cdf35cd9b_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875336903/" title="Fukuoka71 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka71" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2827/12875336903_ffd47065ba.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875336303/" title="Fukuoka72 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka72" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2859/12875336303_68279d8a94.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875667724/" title="Fukuoka73 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka73" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2856/12875667724_f0e625a951.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875335293/" title="Fukuoka74 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka74" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3803/12875335293_d653b7e46a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875241995/" title="Fukuoka75 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka75" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3700/12875241995_b7c82c9665.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875334223/" title="Fukuoka76 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka76" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2877/12875334223_96d8e63218.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875665494/" title="Fukuoka77 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka77" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7419/12875665494_c0e8616262.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875240475/" title="Fukuoka78 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka78" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7360/12875240475_b2b55a72ca.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875664484/" title="Fukuoka79 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka79" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3805/12875664484_31ec08ee65.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875332143/" title="Fukuoka80 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka80" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3690/12875332143_5a957e458a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875238815/" title="Fukuoka81 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka81" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2825/12875238815_203b84ae1b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875662484/" title="Fukuoka82 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka82" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3744/12875662484_66bb64472e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875237675/" title="Fukuoka83 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka83" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7387/12875237675_20733b1e14_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875330713/" title="Fukuoka84 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka84" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7323/12875330713_60dc3fcb02.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875661094/" title="Fukuoka85 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka85" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3713/12875661094_d682733ca9_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875329213/" title="Fukuoka86 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka86" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3786/12875329213_74ec8cdefc_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875236045/" title="Fukuoka87 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka87" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7444/12875236045_1905f42cd8.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Big window "self portrait" or "selfie" as they have become known.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875235035/" title="Fukuoka88 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka88" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/so/7331/12875235035_0725cb8d1a.jpg" width="500" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875658664/" title="Fukuoka89 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka89" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3794/12875658664_edf4985be3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
(photo credit: my left hand)<br />
<br />
More bicycle parking!<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875326433/" title="Fukuoka90 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka90" height="500" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2813/12875326433_dfc12d3d5b.jpg" width="375" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875325913/" title="Fukuoka91 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka91" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3827/12875325913_73a27717c5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875325613/" title="Fukuoka92 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka92" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3789/12875325613_ea90110634.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875656684/" title="Fukuoka93 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka93" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3669/12875656684_84ca25962c_c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875655974/" title="Fukuoka95 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka95" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3803/12875655974_1b1ea110e3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
The ACROS building has an interesting tiered rooftop with gardens on every level. It's a nice touch as it is next to Tenjin Park and it is nice to see efforts made to create a a building in harmony with its surroundings.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875323583/" title="Fukuoka96 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka96" height="375" src="https://v4s2.yimg.com/sk/3819/12875323583_f5484184bc.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875230705/" title="Fukuoka97 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka97" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2823/12875230705_e351a913cb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12875322063/" title="Fukuoka98 by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img alt="Fukuoka98" height="375" src="https://v4s1.yimg.com/sj/2886/12875322063_39c9129499.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3750438206637808973.post-86600094401666260812014-02-14T20:37:00.001+09:002014-02-14T20:38:34.178+09:00New Blue Death - PosterHere's my latest poster for New Blue Death / Loose Union
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/couchonwheels/12519025684/" title="New Blue Death by Couch on Wheels, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/12519025684_016c6ae135.jpg" width="500" height="355" alt="New Blue Death"></a>Alasdairhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03748113966115815570noreply@blogger.com0